You could see if Painless Wiring or Ron Francis could build you a new harness. There are a few other wiring places also.

 

I tried Painless but they only do early model muscle cars and specific custom applications. I am going to look at some other places and probably look at the salvage yard I pulled some parts from already.

 

I followed that cable and it goes to the starter solenoid. I will replace this cable and run it a different way to ensure it stays away from anything which might cause problems, such as rubbing or chaffing. I just hope it did not damage the starter or solenoid.

 

Just an update.

I have been able to purchase a new engine wiring harness, injector harness and both glow plug harnesses. Over the past several years I have occasionally picked up a code for #7 injector low voltage. Since I will be replacing the AC air box and evaporator I removed most of the old housing and was able to easily access the right valve cover. I replaced the injector with a Motorcraft rebuilt injector and also replaced the dummy plug and standpipe with the most recent version. The standpipe I took out was the complete 2 piece version with the 1/2' removal method. I also replaced the left side standpipe and dummy plug. The left side standpipe was basically stuck in position and required the use of pliers to finally get out. I made sure the o-ring was there before installing the new standpipe. I also replaced the glow plug harness at this time. I was very easy to remove the plugs with the valve covers off, I made a tool to reach down inside the valve area and push the plug up from the inside. Before I put in the new plugs I clean and lubricated the new plugs and use a little bit of dielectric grease on the connections. Once both valve covers were installed I replaced the injector harness. I again used a small amount of dielectric grease on all of the connections to ensure water does not get in and to help with corrosion resistance. I also started removing the main engine harness but still have a couple of connectors to access and remove. On connector goes down the back of the engine on the left side and the other goes down the front of the engine on the right side. I was not able to get under the vehicle at this time, rain, but will work on these two next weekend. I still need the wiring harness which goes from the left side to the right side along the firewall and operates the lights, horn, HVAC blower and a few other small accessories. Since this harness is no longer produced by Ford I have thought about simply finding a vehicle of similar build date and cutting off the harness and splicing it into the one I currently have on the truck. I would use butt connectors, heat shrink and dielectric grease to ensure I have a good connection. I also installed the new external oil cooler, the old one had melted Teflon from the oil cooler lines. The white Teflon could be seen in the bottom of the cooler once I removed it from the housing. I also have the new battery terminals, 2/0 battery cable, 4/0 cable to go to the starter, heater hose and terminals for all of the cables. I also purchased a hydraulic crimping tool to ensure I get the correct fit and heat shrink and wire conduit to make sure everything stays away from sharp metal pieces so I don't have this issue again.

I'll post more once I have more progress.

Jeff

 

Great progress! Thanks for keeping us updated.

 

Do yourself a favor with the IPR coolant filter, buy some silicone hoses, not cheap but it is a PITA to replace them on the side of the road.

 

Just an update on what is happening. I have been able to replace all engine wiring harnesses, these include both injector harnesses, both glow plug harnesses and the main engine harness. Many of the connectors on the original were damaged in some manner so new replacement was the best option. I have already started reinstalling major pieces. I purchased a new alternator and was able to get it installed today also. I have replaced the coolant tank and FICM today. Replacing the crankshaft position sensor was the most difficult. I had to remove the AC compressor to get the connector removed and the new one installed. All connections have been coated with dielectric grease to help prevent corrosion, water penetration and help with future removal. I have removed all of the battery cables and will replace them when I get new cables. I am going to make my own and route them so nothing will rub against other sharp edges and cause this problem all over again. I am running a 1AWG wire from the battery to the starter and 1AWG wire between batteries. I will run 2AWG wire for the grounds.



Ford is no longer making the wiring harness I needed for the back of the firewall so I took one from a 2004 Super Duty and will splice it into my current one. I will use the connection end of the original harness with only a couple of connectors from the donor harness, some of the original connectors were melted beyond use. I will splice the harness in later this week.


I was able to get a new oil fill tube and dip stick. I need to find a 3/4" Y-tube to make the heater components work. I tried the one from O'Reilly but that is only 5/8" and will not fit correctly in the heater hoses. I also need to get a new air box and evaporator housing. I pulled this one from the same 04 Super Duty but you can see the sensor in the front is small and the Excursion uses a larger sensor. At least removing this air box isn't as difficult as I thought, only 5 11mm nuts on the inside and it comes off. You just need a deep socket, long extension and 11mm wrench (ratcheting wrench works best). You have to remove the glove box door and a vacuum valve but that is all.


I also need to find a new turbo boot for the upper hot side and upper cold side. Both took some heat and have some visual damage. Don't want to take a chance at either of them failing while driving.





This is the hose which goes from the left valve cover to the air intake. I recall someone having a mod for this which has it dump out under the truck. I will look for this mod and hopefully do it here.


I have had some issues with #7 injector throwing a low voltage engine code so I replaced this injector. While I had the valve cover off I also replaced the stand pipe and dummy plug. These were the original components from 2004, they were still the 1/2" drive top and interference connection between the two pieces. I also replaced the left side stand pipes and dummy plug. I also replaced the glow plug harness on both sides, it was very easy to get the connectors off when the valve covers are removed. I also made a simple tool to help reach down into the head to put pressure on the bottom of the connector next to the glow plug. I put a little dielectric grease on the connector to help with future removal. I also put a little around the connector o-ring to help with future removal. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets while I had them off. I know they are reusable but I have had an oil leak on the right side so I was replacing all components which might cause this. I was there anyway.

Well that is all the new news for now. Hopefully by the end of this month I will have her back on the road.

Thank you,
jeff