Hi folks, getting ready to replace AC compressor, condenser, evaporator, Orifice tube after 240K miles with all original so far. Seems it is not as cold as it used to be and finding a leak around the compressor, thinking front seal as die is showing in that area.

I can get a complete kit minus the evaporator from Rock Auto. Seems like a good deal with the kit and get the evaporator separately.

Question I have is any idea where the expansion valve is located? I can't find one located by looking around and following the ac lines so far....Does it have one? I see the part is available and comes in the kit, but can't find where it might be located.

Also, the kit on Rock Auto is with rear air for XLT model. Assume same kit for Limited? I have the Limited V10.

 

By the hvac housing it’s in the tube with the dimple just above my finger it uses an orifice tube for the front.

 

The expansion valve is located in the rear of the truck on the passenger side behind the plastic where the rear blower motor is.

You'll have some fun replacing the evaporator core, lol

 

Rear a/c has a traditional expansion valve by the jack

 

two more things a friend has recently purchased a kit from rock auto and ended up warrantying the pump out after 100 miles and then another 400 miles on the second one. he ended up getting a used pump followed the same install procedure and its been fine for about 1000 miles.

also unless you know you have a leak with that evap. dont muck with them. after seeing the last few ford orifice tubes we have replaced start with the pump the front o-tube and the rear expansion valve. literally just did this to my 02 with 175k and it is amazingly cold again.

 

There is no "filtration" of the Freon to the rear system, if your compressor is breaking down, or there is other trash in the system the "Strainer Orifice" will collect that prior to the front evap only, while the rear TXV needle valve can get blocked with remaining trash if present. If you're leak dye in the compressor head than your seal is probably leaking. You can re-use the front orifice if you chose, it can be cleaned with mineral spirits, and chased with carb cleaner. Purely preferential. But it needs to be pulled and inspected. I just replaced most of my system based on OE parts availability, and was surprised to see that my front and center compressor seals were leaking, but my A/C was super cold.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19149045

 

I went to autozone and one you factor in freight the price was the same.

the diffrence:

rockauto = 2 year warrenty

AutoZone = lifetime watrenty at 6000
stores around the country and you dont even need to keep your receipt.

don't forget to change that big rubber/aluminum hose attached to the accumulator that is almost always cracked.

 

I am somewhat worried about buying the kits as they are all offbrand parts. Cheap, but the work to replace a compressor is a pita. We just moments ago finished replacing the Compressor/Drier on our explorer that we replaced about 6 years ago with a Four Seasons from Rock Auto. The compressor front seal went out according to the die. However, this is a backup vehicle and is driven maybe once a month or so. So even by age, there are no miles. Maybe the seal dried out? Dunno, but gives me a bad taste.

I am now thinking go for the Motorcraft Compressor and Motorcraft Condensor since the Condensor takes so much punishment in the grill, not sure how a cheaper one will endure....

The confusion I have on the Motorcraft is that they have 2 different one's: Service model and not Service model. What is the difference? Other than price of course. Service model is $262 and the non Service model is $383. Big difference. Both are new and come with clutch, so what can be different?

The evaporator core is $118 for Motorcraft. From some Youtube videos, seems it is not too difficult to replace.

 

Could service model exclude a rear system? The rear was not standard on every X, maybe absent on the XL models?

 

I believe the non service is the compressor only and the service comes with oil o rings and a drier

 

Update...I replaced the Compressor/Drier and Orifice tube with Motorcraft last October so didn't get a chance to see how it would perform in high heat. The orifice tube was actually clean which I was very happy about. The compressor was a bit noisy so figured it was not working up to par. However, last weekend when travelling, sitting a while to eat lunch in 90 degree heat, the inside of the truck was hot again, very hot. Rev up engine to about 2500 and feel it cooling a little more than at just idle. So figure time to replace the fan clutch, even though I hear it kick in at times when towing and going up a hill or pushing it hard for a few minutes to pass someone. This is with 10K boat trailer load.
I just went ahead and picked up a motorcraft condensor and evaporator core and hoping to replace this weekend. Not sure if the fan clutch is the issue here, but trying to rule out anything that can be restricting the flow of air or freon in the system.
From here, not sure what else I need to check or consider?

 

You'll likely score the most results with the condenser coil, air flow on the high side is essential...

 

So I replaced the fan clutch and the Condensor yesterday and vacuumed/recharged system. Idling, get down to 64 degrees in a full sun hot parking lot, outside temp was 85 degrees .Before it would get so hot in the truck after about 10 minutes we had to start driving again. So, better than before but still not great or right.

We ran out of time to replace the Evaporator core and after looking at the job, I think I will take it down to my local mechanic to change that out. Then see what happens after that.

Driving down the road, the temp got down to 58 for a short time, then fluctuated between 58 to 64, depending on if I was in a shaded area of road or in full sun it seemed.
I think the fan clutch is pushing more air, but could have been the condensor as well.

My son in law is going to take to his dealership tomorrow and hook up to their charging system and see if maybe I have too much oil or not a good charge and see if it gets better. If not, then I will proceed with the Evaporator change Not sure what else to check.

One other thing that took a lot of time from us changing out the Fan Clutch and Condensor is even though I bought Motorcraft parts, they are not the same .The fan clutch bolts were smaller on the new one. I had to rob the 4 bolts from the top radiator mounts and found/scrounged up some other bolts to replace on the radiator mounts that fit but were too long for the fan clutch. Then the Condensor did not accept the push pins for the air deflectors on the sides, so had to use zip ties for as much as I could reach down into the bottom.
I don't get why they modified these parts knowing that we would not have the right size bolts and have to mod out the air deflectors.

 

The only reason you should replace the evaporator is because it's leaking, if it's dirty then you can remove to clean. It's removed from the engine side of the firewall, not from inside the vehicle.
Your strainer/orifice located inside the liquid inlet tube to the front evaporator, needs to be checked for debris too.
Volume of oil cannot be measured with a set of gauges, all components containing oil are supposed to be removed and drained of oil, at which the sum of all oil amounts can be added up.
Fan clutch was definitely a possibility, but your condenser coil was probably the air flow culprit. When I first bought my X in 2006, I knew the A/C was not up to par, after seeing a pretty dirty condenser coil with dust, debris, and mainly tiny bits of gravel, I replaced it only, and had significant temp gains at idle.
The condenser was modified at some point, I went through the same thing, also is supposed to be a new charge decal with the new coil that you place over the existing one at the hood latch area.

 

I have seen the videos of how to replace the Evaporator Core on YouTube, in the engine bay not from inside the cab. It is just hard to get to all the bolts and wiggle it out. To me, if going to all that trouble to remove it and based on the age and mileage, it makes sense to replace it. Besides, I already have the new one. I suspect it is somewhat blocked like all the video's I have seen, they are 1/3 clogged up with debris/dirt.
I had just replaced the Drier and Orifice tube and the original was clean, so don't suspect any issue there. But the new Evaporator came with a new Orifice tube filter so I will replace it once I pull the Evaporator out or have the mechanic do it. I still might give it a go when I have more time.
In regards to the oil, the dealership is a high end auto dealership and has some of the state of the art equipment. Their AC charging unit can extract out the oil and re-install the correct amount. We have done this so far on 2 other vehicles, our Expedition and Explorer and the results were great .Nice cold air!
My Condensor was clear, you could see through it very well, however your right, lots of small pieces of gravel stuck which will restrict the flow some, but hard to think that would be enough to make the air so warm, but who knows....I did replace the decal as you mention. That was another thing that didn't make sense is why less freon? Seemed the Condensors were the same exact size, but I did not hold them up next to each other to check it.

Thanks for the feedback. I will report back after tomorrow as he has the Excursion now and will recharge tomorrow. Fingers crossed.