block heater woes
i pulled the engine to do a rear main, exhaust studs, stick tube and some other minor freshening. one of the things i noticed while it was out was the block heater looked like it had seen better days so i replaced it. i used a zerostart unit to replace it seemed fine until i was trolling a duramax pick up and got on it hard (which is so nice with the exhaust fixed LOL) in which the o-ring popped out and began to leak. made it to work loosened screw pushed back in and took it easy home that night. took a look at it again now that i had more time and the unit looked tweaked ok no big deal figured i had installed improperly so i got a new KAT unit along with a new cap from napa. installed that per instructions to a tee including the use of an inch pound torque wrench (did the same with the zerostart). got on it again this one did the same thing pushed the o-ring out loosened screw pushed oring in added water and away i went. at this point i got paranoid i had a head gasket issue so i drove like a good boy for a few days and tested for exhaust gases in the coolant and i have none the cap tests accordingly as did the original. at the time of replacement of the cap i didnt feel like going to get my tester from work so i just grabbed a new cap.
in a nutshell two heater o-rings popped out, hole in block is nice clean true and burr free, good cap in place and no exhaust gases in coolant. any input would be appreciated thanks ladies and gentleman.
PS i have searched this and came up with similar issues but not repeats like mine. also next step may be eliminating the block heater but id prefer not to
I installed a block heater in a MB in line 6 diesel I had and it was threaded. It didn't pop out either. MB had it figured out.
When powering the units, be CERTAIN to use an adequate, or better, wire gauge cords. If not, you will burn out the unit prematurely. People do that with electric fans, lawn tools, etc. all the time. Don't buy cheap, small gauge wire extension cords. Cheap is expensive.
I installed a block heater in a MB in line 6 diesel I had and it was threaded. It didn't pop out either. MB had it figured out.
When powering the units, be CERTAIN to use an adequate, or better, wire gauge cords. If not, you will burn out the unit prematurely. People do that with electric fans, lawn tools, etc. all the time. Don't buy cheap, small gauge wire extension cords. Cheap is expensive.
the down side for me with a tank heater is the cutting of two hoses for install. If I remember correctly they prefer pulling water from the lower hose and it going in a heater core hose. But if my block heater pops out it’s worse than a potential leak at the tees for a tank heater. I just don’t understand why they are popping out I’ve had this type in everything I’ve ever owned and never see this
Also for future reference the Ford block heater is a zero start unit but made to different specs than that zero start would sell as their own. 150watts more and the housing if you will that pops in the block is thicker material.
Also for future reference the Ford block heater is a zero start unit but made to different specs than that zero start would sell as their own. 150watts more and the housing if you will that pops in the block is thicker material.









