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Good evening, gentlemen.
First post, however not new to the forum.
I'm looking for the cheapest route to 500 rwhp with a 7.3 that anyone can think of. With those numbers, I'm aware an engine and transmission rebuild are in order, as well as higher flow injectors and probably a new turbo. Anyone got any other tips or tricks? Parts that I might be needing to look for? I'm looking to smoke a bunch of POS Chevy's.
Good evening, gentlemen.
First post, however not new to the forum.
I'm looking for the cheapest route to 500 rwhp with a 7.3 that anyone can think of. With those numbers, I'm aware an engine and transmission rebuild are in order, as well as higher flow injectors and probably a new turbo. Anyone got any other tips or tricks? Parts that I might be needing to look for? I'm looking to smoke a bunch of POS Chevy's.
What are you starting with? 500 hp is a lofty goal. Just about everything on the drive train would need some work, except the alternator. That should be fine.
If you want the cheapest route, we are probably not the folks to ask. As mentioned, Mo Powa, cheap, and Powerstroke do not belong in the same sentence.
If you want a strong powerhouse take a look at the various build threads, but don’t imagine you will get there for under 10k and that is a lot of DIY work. For simple pricing, take a look at Swamps diesel. They have various packages for you to consider.
If the engine is healthy 500rwhp is no problem for a stock forged rod engine. Do you have a forged rod engine or PMRs? 500 plus and much more has been done over and over even stock head bolts. You are going to need 200cc injectors minimum, T4 turbo, high volume Hpop, fuel system upgrades, transmission upgrades like a built auto or heavy clutch for a ZF5 truck. Tuning will be critical on a stock engine to keep the cylinder pressure from venting gaskets and or engine internals. Most do install head studs and upgrades valve springs and pushrods at that power level for good insurance. Only way to do it real cheap is do the installation upgrades yourself. Building your own injectors and doing your own tuning can save money but you would need to know what your doing.
Hmmmm, this sounds and smells like John Buck and ohioexowner, who threatened @Jarrett Campbell and his family. Beware of the trolls fellas. Don't play.
If the engine is healthy 500rwhp is no problem for a stock forged rod engine. Do you have a forged rod engine or PMRs? 500 plus and much more has been done over and over even stock head bolts. You are going to need 200cc injectors minimum, T4 turbo, high volume Hpop, fuel system upgrades, transmission upgrades like a built auto or heavy clutch for a ZF5 truck. Tuning will be critical on a stock engine to keep the cylinder pressure from venting gaskets and or engine internals. Most do install head studs and upgrades valve springs and pushrods at that power level for good insurance. Only way to do it real cheap is do the installation upgrades yourself. Building your own injectors and doing your own tuning can save money but you would need to know what your doing.
Forged rods, 1996 7.3.
I plan on leaving the 4 speed E4OD stock and exactly how it is because I like breaking things and need an excuse for a ZF5 (or 6spd if I'm feeling cocky)
Hmmmm, this sounds and smells like John Buck and ohioexowner, who threatened @Jarrett Campbell and his family. Beware of the trolls fellas. Don't play.
What happened with those folks? I've only been browsing for a few years.
If you want the cheapest route, we are probably not the folks to ask. As mentioned, Mo Powa, cheap, and Powerstroke do not belong in the same sentence.
If you want a strong powerhouse take a look at the various build threads, but don’t imagine you will get there for under 10k and that is a lot of DIY work. For simple pricing, take a look at Swamps diesel. They have various packages for you to consider.
And on that note, what sites offer financing? I'm not big on the 'save up money for a year or two to build the truck route,' and I wouldn't want to do it in phases because of the constant need to retune.
Forged rods, 1996 7.3.
I plan on leaving the 4 speed E4OD stock and exactly how it is because I like breaking things and need an excuse for a ZF5 (or 6spd if I'm feeling cocky)
I don't like to rain on your parade, it won't be quick and a stock trans won't hold. Then in your last post about borrowing money can we be honest here. A guy named DocBoy was the quickest 7.3L I met in person and it was not a slouch but plenty of work and coin, he finally switched to a Cummins to stay in the game. You have Snow White out of Texas but that is a full race build.
Forged rods, 1996 7.3.
I plan on leaving the 4 speed E4OD stock and exactly how it is because I like breaking things and need an excuse for a ZF5 (or 6spd if I'm feeling cocky)
An unmodified E40D would be dead in seconds with 1000 ft lbs of crank torque beating it to death. I run 350/200s B code injectors in my 7.3 with a ZF5 it's a fun truck to drive. I would consider 300/200s hybrids for a 500hp 7.3 and a clutch rated to 1000 ft lbs of torque will be necessary. I run a Valair Ceramic Single clutch rated for 600hp. I've towed up to 15,000 with it but it's not a friendly towing clutch. If your trying to smoke chevys I would go built automatic. I have about 11K in upgrades under the hood and I hand built my injectors and do my own tuning so I saved alot there. I also did not upgrade to studs or springs pushrods like most do. The cheapest route to 500 hp would probably still cost me 6-7K again if you were doing all of the installation work, building your own injectors, e fuel, own tuning etc and I would conservatively tune it to keep it from venting gaskets or rods.