Fun with headlight locking ring
just looking for a simple plug&play unit to use with the existing connector - shouldn't be that rocket science? my To Do list is long right now, not looking to do a total do-over with 3 different parts orders, though I am sure that would turn out nice. getting anything delivered lately in Corona Year is a crap-shoot with parts back-orders and delivery services swamped and a short work week this week, too. all that is magnified when you live out in the sticks.
It's really plug and play....don't get the upgrade bulbs, or the harness......or not.
Not fedex though. They are a mess right now.
The tops of the adjusters have torx heads; can be turned by those or 7mm nut.
On the top left is this recessed screw. My original 90 degree screwdriver had a bit too big for the screw but horizontal shaft very short. Bought one with a smaller bit but the horizontal portion behind it is too long to turn the screw as it then hits the housing.
The ‘clip’ has so far resisted letting go via trying to ease a flat head blade in behind it, or pushing on a tab with pliers (can’t get on to both sides of it), or any manuever short of breaking something. I would describe it more as a bracket than a clip.
The bottom left has a screw head accessible from the back. The top right looks to come out via walking the adjuster all the way out - maybe. It starts to bind a little near the end and want to stop turning as the left-right angle gets steep.
I am in the market (while still dragging my feet) for new headlights and turn signal assemblies.
I want no amber to be part of the assemblies as i plan to simply install amber bulbs for the signal bulbs.
Provide websites and part numbers please.
There are some on ebay that are appealing to me.
I bought some clear turn signal housings from 1A Auto, and like the way it turned out.
https://www.1aauto.com/products/i/1A...nfirmation+Old
Most of the other "clear" turn signal housings available have a bit of a contoured lens to them. These are clear and smooth throughout, just like the headlight housing. All that said, if I ever decide to upgrade my lights, I will go with a Morimoto HID retro kit because the light you get out of HID's is amazing as I have seen on some of my other vehicles. Although, there is a significant price increase involved with that.
Good luck with your choice sir.
The tops of the adjusters have torx heads; can be turned by those or 7mm nut.
On the top left is this recessed screw. My original 90 degree screwdriver had a bit too big for the screw but horizontal shaft very short. Bought one with a smaller bit but the horizontal portion behind it is too long to turn the screw as it then hits the housing.
The ‘clip’ has so far resisted letting go via trying to ease a flat head blade in behind it, or pushing on a tab with pliers (can’t get on to both sides of it), or any manuever short of breaking something. I would describe it more as a bracket than a clip.
The bottom left has a screw head accessible from the back. The top right looks to come out via walking the adjuster all the way out - maybe. It starts to bind a little near the end and want to stop turning as the left-right angle gets steep.

Needle nose 90* pliers help with those clips. No worries about destroying them, they are on the ‘help’ aisle at the autoparts stores.
No crayons.... When the ‘99 SuperDuty came out (this body style) it had either modular headlight assemblies like you have or 7” square sealed beam headlights for the XL (stripped down) trim package. In ‘02, the body style remained unchanged, but the truck was updated with ‘diamond’ headlights. All ‘99-04 headlights are interchangeable.
You can even ‘bolt on’ the ‘05-07 headlights with a little modification. I don’t recommend this because what I’ve suggested provides better light output.
In my pics above, you’ll see 2 clips and one ‘screw’. Just turn that adjuster until it spits the lens out - after removing the clips.
This is like a horror movie when you’re yelling at the TV but the actors can’t hear you.

I have spent more time typing here than it takes to change these housings out.
Good luck. Feel free to ask questions. We are here to help.
If not doing a relay harness and higher wattage bulbs, spend the $$ on ‘ultra premium’, etc bulbs.
Halogen bulbs will fade over time. Fresh bulbs put out more light in case someone said ‘these are still working, good!’ and reused their old bulbs.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
The tops of the adjusters have torx heads; can be turned by those or 7mm nut.
On the top left is this recessed screw. My original 90 degree screwdriver had a bit too big for the screw but horizontal shaft very short. Bought one with a smaller bit but the horizontal portion behind it is too long to turn the screw as it then hits the housing.
The ‘clip’ has so far resisted letting go via trying to ease a flat head blade in behind it, or pushing on a tab with pliers (can’t get on to both sides of it), or any manuever short of breaking something. I would describe it more as a bracket than a clip.
The bottom left has a screw head accessible from the back. The top right looks to come out via walking the adjuster all the way out - maybe. It starts to bind a little near the end and want to stop turning as the left-right angle gets steep.
Once you get the first one out, you'll see what you are up against and the others will probably be easier.
Last edited by hosegp; Sep 8, 2020 at 05:42 PM. Reason: typo
For now though I just went with what the Zone could deliver right away. Still unclear if I will need a new locking ring with those but I expect so. I already bought bulbs, 4th most expensive of the 5 grades on the shelf, before I had seen all the damage from the shorting wires.
It appears the Eagle Eyes aren’t readily available on eBay or Amazon right now, at least this model. My guess is a new container of them may not have arrived cuz, 2020. All of the FLAPS had heard of the brand but none of them had access to them right now. Many other brands their databases can pull were 7-10 days out, ‘from factory’ only.
Reworking everything from a new harness to new housings and high end bulbs would be nice. But replacing both lenses plus good bulbs and simply cleaning up and re-shrink-wrapping 2 wires will get me on the road to some work that shuts down about 6 weeks from now. Winter is coming.
I will mention that the driver side parking lamp assembly had a bad seal on top that allowed water to get into the housing. I just wanted to be done with the project so I sealed it with caulk as best I could rather than sending it back. I don't have any condensation in there at the moment, but time will tell if it needs to be replaced.
TYC 20644000 (20-6440-00) Headlamp Assembly $ 28.79
TYC 20643900 (20-6439-00) Headlamp Assembly $ 28.79
TYC 12506791 (12-5067-91) Parking / Turn Signal Lamp Assembly $ 9.51
TYC 12506891 (12-5068-91) Parking / Turn Signal Lamp Assembly $ 10.94
New lenses will have new locking rings.
www.rallylights.com
This is the part number we use. Feel free to call them. They build these in house here in the USA with the best parts available. Better than OEM quality.
I realize this is more than what the OP wants, but those who are looking for MORE LIGHT but are considerate enough to not want to annoy other drivers - this is a solid investment.
The stock wiring for headlights is 14-16ga (skinny) wire that runs for miles between batterires, fuse box, steering column, etc and finally back to headlights. This has been measured as up to a 2v drop to the bulbs. Even with stock wattage bulbs, this will provide more light. But, with 10ga wire going from batteries to relays to headlights (using relay harness), you’ll see battery voltage at the bulbs. The larger gauge wire and ceramic pigtails on relay harness also allow us to run higher wattage bulbs (100/80watt vs 65/55watt). The HELLA bulbs I use can be purchased for under $3/bulb - but don’t let the low price fool you. These are among the highest quality bulbs you can buy and the difference in SAFETY with increased visibility for night driving is easily quantified. Since these bulbs maintain the factory cut-off lines like stock bulbs, they are not annoying to other drivers the way HID/LED drop in bulbs are.
Nobody who knows better would EVER put the ‘99-01 ‘bathroom glass’ style lenses back in their truck. The clear lens ‘02-04 style not only look so much better - they put more light further down the road.
They horse has been brought to the water........

Since we we are talking about it, curious if @Sous noticed a difference with the HELLA bulbs? Not sure what bulbs you had before....
Prior to installing the Hella bulbs, I had been running the clear lens housings and the relay harness for years. A couple of years ago I installed Phillips Xtreme-vision bulbs and they were great. Again, I rarely have the lights on, but tested them in darkness and set them up properly.
I installed the Hella bulbs and there is a noticeable difference, but I wouldn't say it is a WOW difference. The Phillips are more white and provide a good amount of light. But, at 55/65 they clearly will not be as bright as the 80/100 Hella bulbs.
Take into account the low price of the Hella bulbs and their brighter output, I can easily look past the more yellow color that I generally do not prefer. I keep the Phillips under the rear seat in a bin with tools and misc small parts that I travel with. The Hella may never burn out in my truck, but I like to be prepared when I can.
Bottom line is this, the Hella bulbs are cheap and put out more light thAn high quality Phillips bulbs, but I do prefer the whiter look of the Phillips. I am and will continue to run the Hella during those once a year events that the lights need to be on due to darkness.















