My 2004 F350 began starting rough and idling roughly - wasn't sure I was going to get it started out at the reservoir today but it did start and we made it home, so that's good. It seemed like the truck didn't have the power it usually does and felt a bit rough as I accelerated - and when I got home (25 minutes or so) it was still running very rough a low speed and idle.
I hooked up my OBDII bluetooth module and it had several codes initially:Car Scanner ELM OBD2
DTC report
Selected brand: Ford

============1==============
P0232
Raw code: 0232
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault present at time of request
OBDII: Fuel pump relay - circuit high
Ford: Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit High
============2==============
P0266
Raw code: 0266
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault present at time of request
OBDII: Cylinder 2 - contribution/balance fault
Ford: Cylinder #2 Balance Fault
============3==============
P0281
Raw code: 0281
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault present at time of request
OBDII: Cylinder 7 - contribution/balance fault
Ford: Cylinder #7 Balance Fault
============4==============
P0603
Raw code: 0603
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault present at time of request
OBDII: Engine control module (ECM) - KAM error
Ford: Powertrain Control Module KAM Test Error
============5==============
P1000
Raw code: 1000
ECU: Engine control unit
Status: Validated and stored in non volatile memory, Validated fault present at time of request
OBDII: OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete
Ford: Check of all OBDII Systems Not Complete Ford Manufacturer Codes; OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete


I cleared these and ran it again and got just the P1000 and P0266 the second time. My plug-in OBDII reader just said "misfire" so that wasn't much more helpful.

I read some posts online and watched two videos by DieselTechRon (RIP) and this sounds like I might need to replace the #2 injector.

I'd prefer to fix this myself if I can - I don't really have the money to pay for labor right now - but I don't want to misdiagnose this and spend a lot of money chasing the problem and buying parts along the way.

Have you experience with this?
Is a bad injector a likely cause?
If it is, does it make sense to just replace all of them while I've got it taken apart? (It seems that way but it would cost more).
Any other thoughts on what would cause this?

Thanks much for your time,
Matt

 

When was the last time you changed the fuel filters?

 

You absolutely need a fuel pressure sensor and gauge. Do not install new injectors without knowing for certain that fuel pressure is good. Low fuel pressure is a VERY common cause for injector failures.

 

Sorry for the delay - life gets busy.

I changed the fuel filters within the last 30 days.

 

I installed a MaxTow fuel pressure sensor/gauge (the kind that has a gauge that mounts up on the dash) and the pressure reading is zero!
I don't have any reason to believe I've hooked it up wrong but that's possible.
Truck attempts to idle but it is really rough then it cuts off.

 

P0232 Fuel pump secondary circuit high.
Voltage is detected to be present at the fuel pump monitor circuit when it has not been commanded "on" for more than one second. Short to power in the wiring, or a sticking relay (which is a permanent part of the Central Junction Box.

If the relay is the problem, then the best bet is to install an independent relay external to the CJB.

Will the secondary fuel filter bowl (with filter removed) quickly fill with fuel with the key turned on?

 

There's no fuel in the upper fuel filter.

I hadn't run the truck since replacing the fuel filters and I know a lot of fuel drained out when I did the lower one - I'd opened the drain on the water/fuel separator (I think that's what it's called) and more drained out when I removed the filter cap.

I'd cycled the key to "ON" multiple times for up to 30 seconds each time per someone else's comment but I don't see any fuel filling.

I guess it is possible that I messed something up when installing the lower filter - I snapped it into the cap and then put the reference mark at around 9 o'clock and turned the cap - I felt it click into place around 12 o'clock and then I tightened it up - it was tough tightening it just like it was loosening it. Anyway, not sure what I would have done to mess that up but I could recheck it.

 

I would jumper 12 volts directly to the pump and see if it will pump.

 

Quick rig
I just made up this one for me to test mine tomorrow.
I had old pigtail from the last one. Hopefully it is just the pump.

 

Handy to have!

 

I'm assuming that if I unhook the pump and hook up my multimeter to the electrical connector that I should see 12v when someone else turns the key to the "ON" position - my understanding is that the pump runs for 20 seconds when the key is turned to the "ON" position.

If I'm seeing that 12v at the connector, then I would think it might be the pump that is bad if it doesn't run, correct?

Thanks for your time,
Matt

 

Bear in mind that the 12V is not under load when you do that - there may be a poor connection upstream. It will confirm that the switching and electronics are doing their thing.

 

If you have resistance at the relay, taking a reading without any load may show full voltage giving you a false sense everything is working fine. The better approach is to take a voltage reading at the inertia switch at the passenger foot area with the pump connected. You can back probe both sides of the connector to confirm the switch is not triggered and is working properly.

 

Thanks for the guidance!

I'm attempting to think through this - if you have time, please feel free to comment/correct me.

I took a couple short lengths of wire and pushed one into the back side of the connector to make contact with the wire/connector and plugged it back it.
Set my voltmeter to 20 and my wife turn the key to "ON" while I checked each wire independently.
The voltmeter read ~7.1 volts on both wires. I'm not sure what the voltage should be here but it isn't zero so there is continuity.

The red "button" on the top of that inertia switch looked like the one in your picture and didn't feel like it could be pressed in - so that plus the fact that I saw the same voltage on both wires leads me to say that the switch is working. I would also say that the relay is working since there wouldn't be a circuit if the relay wasn't closed.

I also slid under the truck and put my hand on the pump while my wife turned the key to "ON" - didn't feel anything or hear anything right there at the pump. Someone had said I would hear and/or feel the pump engage but I felt/heard nothing from the pump.

Based on my findings (and my very limited knowledge), I am thinking it is the pump itself that is bad.

Any other thoughts or things I'm missing here?

Thank you for your time!

Matt

 

Did you take the plug out of the pump and check for voltage there? Lotta wire that could have a rub spot.
I would probably bee more help once I do mine. Legs not quite ready for that yet.