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4.2 running poorly

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Old Sep 5, 2020 | 12:44 PM
  #1  
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Laughing Gas
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4.2 running poorly

Breaking the ice on another BIL vehicle saga. He lives 175 miles away, so I can't get to it right now. 2001 F-150 XL with 6 cylinder and automatic. (This truck belonged to my Father until two years ago and was lightly driven and very well maintained until then. Currently at about 150K miles.)
BIL called today and told me the truck "started chugging". After a lengthy and frustrating phone call, I have this until he gets codes read...
This morning he made three short trip in town and each time, the truck started fine. When he put it in drive and started driving it began running poorly, but he is incapable of clearly explaining how so. He said it "was missy". He did tell me it did not stall at any time.
I told him I really need to know what codes are present. He said he would have them read today or tomorrow. ...head exploding now.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2020 | 10:28 AM
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After I told him to get the codes #, he calls with this;
"The guy (at Advance) told me it had,
-Bank 1 ?what?
-Bank 2 ?what?
-Misfire cylinder #2
-Misfire cylinder #3 "

I ask did he get the code #s. He said, the guy said his computer doesn't show numbers?

Edit:
I did a little research and it looks like all "bank 1&2" codes are O2 sensor issues?
Anybody know?
RE-edit:
I talked to the guy at The Advance, and he was able to retrieve the codes on hos computer/reader!
P0171 Bank 1 lean
P0174 Bank 2 lean
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire
P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire

Vacuum leak?
Any help?
 
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Old Sep 6, 2020 | 11:28 AM
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Codes 171/174 are not sensor faults.. They are only reporting the problems upstream, due to excess air detected in the exhaust. The system has no other way to report issue from other parts of the engine operation. This is what they do in addition to track the exhaust and signal correction to the computer for fuel injection changes in a running engine.
302 and 303 are cylinder misfires. They can be the cause or add air to a vacuum leak causing the Lean condition codes.
.
This is the problem "running" with simple code descriptions, without knowing the system operations behind the codes.
The codes do not tell what to replace.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2020 | 12:31 PM
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I had the same problem on mine around 175XXX miles. Same codes and everything. I replaced just about everything there was to replace except injectors, hoping that was not the problem but it still ran rough every now and then. Replaced the injectors and the problem went away. Throughout the process I also replaced coil packs, plug wires, plugs, PCM module, PCV valve, crank position sensor, and cam position sensor. I would start with the simple stuff like plugs, wires, and coil packs.If that doesnt work, run some seafoam through it and see if that helps before you decide to tackle anything bigger.

edit: forgot to mention that I also changed the fuel pump and filter
 

Last edited by Holden Sheffield; Sep 6, 2020 at 12:34 PM. Reason: forgot some words
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Old Sep 6, 2020 | 01:32 PM
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Slacking off here, guys!

This generation of F150 was from Ford’s better days of quality control. You’ll be needing to change out the intake manifold gasket and isolator bolts and you may as well change out the IMRC bushings with the intake off so you don’t have to pull the intake again anytime soon. All 4.2s meet this fate eventually. I got 10 years and about 130,000 miles out of my first redo. About to brave the sun and put things back together.

This would have saved you a ton of trouble, Mr Sheffield.

I had the all-time favorite site bookmarked on my phone, but it’s ghost as of this morning:

https://sites.google.com/site/fordf1...P0171P0174-Fix

This fella breaks it down a bit, but I don’t see the specific in/lbs values mentioned for tightening everything down.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/nichola...d-gaskets/amp/



 
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Old Sep 6, 2020 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Paycheck
Slacking off here, guys!

This generation of F150 was from Ford’s better days of quality control. You’ll be needing to change out the intake manifold gasket and isolator bolts and you may as well change out the IMRC bushings with the intake off so you don’t have to pull the intake again anytime soon. All 4.2s meet this fate eventually. I got 10 years and about 130,000 miles out of my first redo. About to brave the sun and put things back together.

This would have saved you a ton of trouble, Mr Sheffield.

I had the all-time favorite site bookmarked on my phone, but it’s ghost as of this morning:

https://sites.google.com/site/fordf1...P0171P0174-Fix

This fella breaks it down a bit, but I don’t see the specific in/lbs values mentioned for tightening everything down.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/nichola...d-gaskets/amp/

When I replaced my injectors I tested the old ones and they werent firing correctly on the test bench. I did eventually replace the gaskets, isolator bolts, and IMRC bushings when I replaced the valve seals at about 200xxx miles.

its been a good engine for the most part. I've replaced other things such as oil pump, water pump, thermostat, torque convertor, front and rear main seals, harmonic balancer, assorted idlers and tensioner and all the routine stuff. Poor thing had been beaten to death by my grandfather before I managed to get hold of it
 
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Old Sep 7, 2020 | 06:47 AM
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Not being able to get at the truck is frustrating...
BIL's previous car was a 2001 Taurus. It had a very similar rough running condition. That was the intake manifold gaskets as well.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 08:29 AM
  #8  
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Update/resolution,

BIL took the truck to a recommended shop (my research). I talked to their mechanic who said they would have to do a "tune up" (plugs, wires and coil) before any further diagnostics/repairs. My gut feeling this was a precursor to a lot of $$ in the future.
Not being there or able to do much else (my $$ for repairs), I reluctantly said go ahead.
Humbly, I say now the mechanic was right, and that fixed the poor running and lean issues. Truck is well again, no codes. Mechanic also said if they found any vacuum lines bad, they usually replaced them free, as regular vacuum tube is cheap.

If anybody in the Tuscaloosa, AL area needs a reliable shop for work, PM me and I'll give the name/number.
 
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