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I can’t stop this from leaking. It leaks from the accelerator pump and from undneath the accelerator pump, there’s another small gasketed area.
Does anyone know of a good rebuilder I can send this to for a complete rebuild? Or! Can anyone advise what to buy new with the pictures provided? I’ve had it off the truck twice and replaced the gaskets,it still drips at a steady pace.
if you replaced gaskets you should rebuild, very easy can be done in an hour, just tear down and have a gentle wire brush and a couple wires to clean out all the holes, make sure to get a good kit, I’ll link the one I used from amazon if it’s the same carb.
Also the surface could be warped and it’s not making a tight seal, what you could do it get some 220 sand paper on a flat table and take some material off and it should be good, also maybe use a little gasket sealer, NOT RTV, gasket sealer is much more gentle and easy to control
Underneath that square cover with 4 screws should be the check valve. Did you replace it? Looks like this.
the accelerator pump on the front drips slowly, the area under the accelerator pump, under the carb, has 4 small screws and a cover, sorry, I don’t know what that’s called, that has a steady stream of gas pouring out.
The cover with 4 screws on the side - the accelerator pump cover - doesn't really even need a gasket because the arm is in a slot that is exposed to air anyway. It's the check valve that blocks a tiny opening to the float bowl at the lower edge of the check valve. Without the check valve or a bad check valve that lower hole is constantly exposed letting the float bowl drain into the accelerator pump cavity which then leaks out past the arm because it is not sealed.
Here's a quickie video showing the various holes. Don't quote me on that upper hole - they call it a vapor bleed hole. The accelerator diaphragm may also have a small hole in it. I don't show that piece in the video. Inspect it closely. The diaphragm and the check valve work hand in hand and both contribute to the sealing effect. The shop manual has really good information on the carburetors, too.
Under the carb would be the power valve, those go bad I just had a thread a while ago where I ended up replacing mine, it was hard as a rock but didn’t leak. I just got very bad milagw
the accelerator pump on the front drips slowly, the area under the accelerator pump, under the carb, has 4 small screws and a cover, sorry, I don’t know what that’s called, that has a steady stream of gas pouring out.
That's the Economizer Valve underneath that lower cover.
The Econ Valve has a gasket of it's own - I do not believe this gasket could contribute to your leak.
and the cover also has a gasket.
Here's a pic of an installed valve without cover. That mating surface needs a good cleaning.
And the cover with gasket.
Things to check for would be uneven contact surfaces between the cover and body of the carb as mentioned by 1966F100SC or a bad gasket - possibly a crack in the cover. You could try a little gasket sealer on that if it kept giving problems, but I've never had to use any on the carbs I've rebuilt - mileage varies. They do recommend tightening these covers in a criss-cross pattern with just a turn or two on each screw before moving to the next to keep warping to a minimum.
I broke the spacer between the card and manifold. I am now more confused! Am I actually running a 2150 with an adapter to fit on a 2100 intake? It should be noted, when the carb is installed without the spacer , the linkage won’t operate, it needs the spacer. What is it called, what should I be looking for? It only fits as shown, if I reverse it, it will cover the butterflies
Seems like a bit of an odd carburetor to have on what I assume is a 292.
I was only staying with this carb because of the manual choke. The actual part number on the carb comes back to a 73-74 ford truck. Being I need a carb, and it doesn’t have to be numbers matching, ... any suggestions?
The spacer plate might be something like this one, but tough to say for 100% sure. Sometimes they help with clearance issues and they can also help prevent boiling the fuel in the float bowl and passages because it provides a bit of a heat buffer between carb and manifold.
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