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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

I beam help

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Old Aug 30, 2020 | 09:29 PM
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I beam help

A while back I buggered up the removal of an I beam bushing so a polyurethane bushing could not be used due to the damaged shell. Well I managed to press out the metal part of the bushing and then press out the rubber from under the truck. I had already pressed out the same on a new bushing to get the metal shell. I then pressed that into my beam so I could install a poly bushing. So far so good.

Now the problem is in getting the metal part of the bushing centered in the mount. First the front bolt hole was not exactly centered when Ford made the truck. After getting the large bolt out I had to dress the threads. Today I got out my die grinder to actually make the hole round so the bolt could fit in easily. Made several attempts jacking the truck up and down and the I beam. I beam only I was able to finally get it pretty much centered laterally and a tad low. However, we all know you can't get the bolt inserted through the backside because the other I beam is in the way. Jacking the passenger side up gets me past that I beam behind but pulls the bolt hole hard towards the passenger side as I work on the driver's side. I have a small rod in there now so I don't lose it. It seems to me that I have to find a metal rod the same diameter as the bolt to insert through the front to not allow any movement so I can put the bolt in from behind.

There was a video on Autorestomod on changing the I beam bushing. Their truck started off almost aligned, just a little towards the driver's side, while mine goes the other direction quite a bit. I might work on my hole more as the one on their truck looks cleanly centered through the two pieces of metal while my inner piece had the hole way towards one side. Maybe there is a trick or maybe just perseverance.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2020 | 10:42 PM
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I saw the same video and I am getting ready to do the same. Do you have a picture of what you are coming up against. I'm having trouble picturing it.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 01:22 AM
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The offset is normal. You don't want to make it centered by enlarging anything. Get the bolt started, then with a big hammer get it to the other side. Then with ratchet straps pull the beam in the direction to align the bolt and beat it through. This is not an exact science but it works.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 02:33 PM
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...second on the ratchet straps. Let them pull the beam in the direction that you need. You may need the assistance of a second jack or bottle jack. You also could find, as you say, a metal rod the same diameter as the bolt. Taper it slightly and tap it in, then follow it with the bolt, pushing it out as the bolt is tapped in. Careful not to muck the threads....
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 02:54 PM
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Grade 8 bolt vs mild steel. Bolt wins, no messed up threads.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 04:44 PM
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Ratchet straps are the key. That, and a 3 pound hammer.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 12:50 AM
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I'll probably just take out the shock, the spring, and the tire leaving only the untightened radius arm, I beam, and tie rod holding the assembly in place. That way once I raise the truck enough to get the bolt in from behind I can align the I beam without having to fight the spring. Either that or a large taper rod but that would have to wait till Saturday when down in the ship's machine shop for stock rod to cut. Or Wednesday try with the spring out.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 02:35 AM
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That rod will be as hard to get in as the bolt. Just get the bolt started and move the I-beam accordingly and give that thing a wack. If your removing the springs and shock take the bolt out of the trailing arm and it will be much easier.
 
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