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1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Box Style Ford Trucks

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Old Aug 30, 2020 | 09:51 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by charliemccraney
If the problem exists while the truck is moving, at normal road speeds, say over 35mph, then the fans are not the problem. There may be room to improve on the fans, but they are not the problem.

If I'm not mistaken, reverse rotation water pumps are available for sbc, I think originally for serpentine systems but I don't know exactly how interchangeable they are. If you observe coolant flow through the radiator with the cap off, you should see coolant flowing from the top hose and that will confirm that flow is correct.

If you can temporarily relocate the trans cooler or ac condenser, for trouble shooting, try it and see if the problem improves. While this is not particularly uncommon on modern vehicles, it does not mean that it can't be the problem on a vehicle that was never equipped as such.
He said after mild driving around town. I'm thinking that means stop and go, low speeds. Not enough air across radiator.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2020 | 02:39 PM
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yeah mostly stop and go low speeds..

truck is still at the shop right now.. they know it's not a primary driver so i told em to take their time, i'll check in with em tomorrow if i haven't heard anything just to see that status..

 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 05:54 PM
  #18  
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radiator was 70% clogged.. shop i brought the truck to took it out and took the radiator to a shop they subcontract to.. they cleaned it out, did some repairs and repainted it to the tune of $310, shop reinstalled it, and after I picked it up and about 20 minutes of driving maybe three miles, it was running over 200F and still climbing. The shop has it again. Guy claims so long as it's under 220 he thinks it's ok.. I don't think i'm going back after this is all over.. If I'm not mistaken, I could have bought a good aftermarket radiator with preinstalled fans and shroud for between $250 and $400..
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 07:47 PM
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Maybe the old truck is just rejecting the foreign heart that has been transplanted into it. lol Hope you figure it out!
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by spurredon
Maybe the old truck is just rejecting the foreign heart that has been transplanted into it. lol Hope you figure it out!
Turns out someone installed two switches which they located under the dash above the parking brake bracket. They are old and don't stay in position anymore. They control the fans... wired em so the fans kick on with the ignition now..

too bad the guy working on it forgot to put the god damn nuts back on that hold the larger rear fan to the radiator.. drove it home, popped the hood and found the fan sitting on the crossmember where it was bouncing off the pulley the whole drive.. gonna have to figure out what size nuts they are.. that shop is never seeing the truck again..

Also, they say the fan is so loud because it's dying. I can replace that myself. Current fan measures approx. 16.5" across the housing. Gonna look for an overkill replacement that will fit..

 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 08:03 PM
  #21  
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Need to measure radiator. Buy a fan with shroud as close as you can to radiator core.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 08:05 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by JohnNewb
Need to measure radiator. Buy a fan with shroud as close as you can to radiator core.
what's a minimum cfm range I should look for? obviously more is better, but do I NEED 3000? or can I get away with like 2500, or even less? it's not a race truck, just a cruiser/driver in the rotation.. I don't need top of the line but I don't wanna skimp out either ya know?
 
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Old Aug 31, 2020 | 09:23 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by tattooed_pariah
what's a minimum cfm range I should look for? obviously more is better, but do I NEED 3000? or can I get away with like 2500, or even less? it's not a race truck, just a cruiser/driver in the rotation.. I don't need top of the line but I don't wanna skimp out either ya know?
I would guess any of these aftermarket fans are for performance market. Maybe see what they list for sbc motors. If it was a house or restaurant I could calculate cfm.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 01:30 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by JohnNewb
I would guess any of these aftermarket fans are for performance market. Maybe see what they list for sbc motors. If it was a house or restaurant I could calculate cfm.
I've been mostly looking at Summit, so yes, they are meant for a performance engine, but I would think that means they should be fine for a plain old 350.. same idea behind when i removed the factory mechanical fuel pump from my 72 beetle and installed a Holley red electric pump.. I don't NEED that much flow, but it's nice having it available..
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 01:59 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by tattooed_pariah
I've been mostly looking at Summit, so yes, they are meant for a performance engine, but I would think that means they should be fine for a plain old 350.. same idea behind when i removed the factory mechanical fuel pump from my 72 beetle and installed a Holley red electric pump.. I don't NEED that much flow, but it's nice having it available..
If the fan wasn't damaged, you could have a
shroud made to fit your radiator if you can't find aftermarket to fit.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 03:36 PM
  #26  
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I found this, https://www.holley.com/blog/post/how..._radiator_fan/, suggesting 2500 cfm as a general guideline for a V8. The best thing to do is ask the fan manufacturer what they suggest for your scenario. Also get a controller of some kind that will turn the fan on and off according to engine temp.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 05:07 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by charliemccraney
I found this, https://www.holley.com/blog/post/how..._radiator_fan/, suggesting 2500 cfm as a general guideline for a V8. The best thing to do is ask the fan manufacturer what they suggest for your scenario. Also get a controller of some kind that will turn the fan on and off according to engine temp.
thanks!

I was wondering about that as well.. on my beetle, i have an external oil cooler with a 180F switch inline. when the oil is above 180F, it activates a 10" fan on the cooler. i assume they make something similar for coolant temps..
 
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Old Sep 1, 2020 | 07:39 PM
  #28  
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Is there any reason since you have to buy one that you wouldn't just put a mechanical fan and spacer back on there? For a shroud, you could easily make one from an 8 inch by 4 feet or so piece of sheet metal formed around the fan circle and attch. some tabs to hold it in place. Not trying to make light of your trouble but just giving different ideas.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2020 | 01:43 PM
  #29  
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Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong, but I keep getting people recommending a mechanical fan.. From my limited knowledge of bigger engines, a mechanical fan is going to be limited by engine RPM. if I'm stuck in traffic, I'm not spinning the engine fast, and the fan isn't cooling as well as it could.. however, an electric fan is either on/off all the time, or controlled by some kind of temp sensor to kick on when needed.. Since I already have an electric fan, it seems like a step backwards to put a mechanical fan back on.

Everything I've seen seems to suggest 2500CFM for a V8, so now I'm looking at either one large fan or a unit with two smaller fans so it spreads the airflow and provides some redundancy..
 
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Old Sep 2, 2020 | 01:54 PM
  #30  
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Engine driven fans typically pull a LOT more air than electrical ones can.
 
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