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The stock turbo still working finr (assuming, no noise) but at 190k some love should be appropriate, same with up pipes so if i ( mechanic) have to pull turbo for ippipes then should i rebuid ( either 360 kit or balanced assembly) or drop in a new unit? How much bench time to rebuild? I see the kc assemble is expensive $450 and new drop in was $1k. Motor is stock, no tuner, just upgraded intake and exhaust
The stock turbo still working finr (assuming, no noise) but at 190k some love should be appropriate, same with up pipes so if i ( mechanic) have to pull turbo for ippipes then should i rebuid ( either 360 kit or balanced assembly) or drop in a new unit? How much bench time to rebuild? I see the kc assemble is expensive $450 and new drop in was $1k. Motor is stock, no tuner, just upgraded intake and exhaust
No reason to rebuild if there is no shaft play. But, for only $60 and 30 minutes on the bench - it doesn’t hurt to ‘upgrade’ to 360* thrust washer. I’ve seen stock turbos with 500k miles. The mileage itself does not dictate failure.
For a STOCK truck, a good stock wheel is fine. Some benefit from a 4+4 wheel and probably more benefit from KC balanced assembly. The benefits are more profound with tuning and or bigger injectors.
If the truck is pure stock, that air intake is lacking protection for the turbo. If I were to spend money to keep my stock truck long-lasting, I'd invest in a Ford AIS. I get my stuff from Riffraff Diesel when possible - you can get the turbo rebuild kit and intake from them. They also sell the bellowed up pipes, which are FAR easier to connect to the back of the turbo, come install time.
Not trying to drain your wallet, just letting you know the options.
There is a misconception that the factory air filter is inadequate. This is mostly false.
The factory filter is commonly broken and/or installed wrong - rendering it unable to remove contaminates from the air going into the engine.
However, an unbroken and properly installed stock filter does a fine job of cleaning the air and has more than adequate flow for a stock or even tuned trucks.
Although it’s rare - I worked on a truck last week that kept the stock filter.
AIS only has adequate flow for a stock or slightly modified truck. It runs out of air really fast. A compromise for ‘cleaner’ air. It also requires expensive replacement filters.
Ive installed DOZENS of 6637 style filters (also from Riffraff) on trucks with broken air filters. This is an economical and efficient option. The only downside is more intake noise from under the hood.
Normally the stock Intake box warps from the center with age, this is what I've seen here in the fleet. There's a reason they sell the the improved AIS.
AIS only has adequate flow for a stock or slightly modified truck. It runs out of air really fast. A compromise for ‘cleaner’ air. It also requires expensive replacement filters.
Are you sure this is still true? No doubt the 6637 flows more than enough air for any truck. But during recent testing the AIS performed well up to around 25psi of boost.
There was about a 2psi drop in boost at max during hard WOT run between the 6637 (34psi)and the AIS(32psi) with an intake vacuum difference of 1.0inHg for the 6637 and 2.0inHg for the AIS.
That’s of course not taking into account your CCV oil sucking experience with the 38R and AIS.
Racing Jason, in another thread you stated your current set up made somewhere around ~2 pounds boost at 1800 RPM correct? If so, Given those results, do you think any of your test result numbers are accurate?
Racing Jason, in another thread you stated your current set up made somewhere around ~2 pounds boost at 1800 RPM correct? If so, Given those results, do you think any of your test result numbers are accurate?
Thats 2psi cruising with just enough throttle to hold the speed. It will boost if I lay into it.
I watched your video again(other thread) and it looks like you had already rolled into the throttle before planning to the boost gauge. Yes mine will build boost at 1500 (begrudgingly) when coming down on the throttle. I mistakenly thought you were cruising at 1500rpm 3psi. Sorry for the confusion.
And sorry to the OP here as my reply is definitely off topic.
But yes I think the AIS vacuum testing is valid. Unless there’s an issue with where I’m tapped in with the gauge. Planning on moving at some point to confirm.
Yes, the answer to your question, to fill in the chart specifically asked for turbo reaction while rolling into the throttle in top gear. It didn’t ask what boost was while simply cruising along.
Yes, the answer to your question, to fill in the chart specifically asked for turbo reaction while rolling into the throttle in top gear. It didn’t ask what boost was while simply cruising along.
My communication skills are lacking here.
Correct, the chart was just asking for your impression of response.
When I watched your video initially I noticed like 3-5psi of boost at 1500 which made me comment about my boost condition. But I was wrong because I thought your’s was at a cruising no load condition. So no comparison to what I was saying in actuality. Just a mistake on my part. But it appears I made it sound like my loaded boost at 1800 was only 2psi. So I was trying to clear that up here. Sorry for all the confusion. Maybe I need some more coffee.
08-23-2020, 01:57 PM
