6.7 steering gearbox conversion
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 94
6.7 steering gearbox conversion
I recall someone mentioning drilling holes in the frame to accommodate a newer model steering gear box. If anyone has information on the conversion please let me know.
Thanks
Thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,647
Likes: 891
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
It's me.
I'm not sure the OEM bolts are long enough as the frame changed a bit in that area, but I sourced some M16-2 x 130 Qty3 Flange bolts though Bolt Depot. 16mm is ~ 5/8"...so when you drill the frame you probably want to use a 21/32" drill...Silver & Deming....just a reduced shank drill. I had the engine out so I could drill from both sides and still had to touch the holes up with a diegrinder, There is a spacer interior to the frame, and it's not round...so be prepared to fight the drill.
The input shaft is different than what you have, the easiest solution is to source a steering shaft from the gear to the end of the column. And you need the firewall seal. I'll attach the p/n's
Lower shaft 9C3Z3B676A
Upper shaft 7C3Z3E751B
Seal 7C3Z-3D677-A
And you need the hose from the gear to the hydroboost.....use a hose that fits a 05-07.
There is a thread about this on PSA 2013+ Steering gear...
the pitman arm is different as well....the taper to the drag link.
I'm not sure the OEM bolts are long enough as the frame changed a bit in that area, but I sourced some M16-2 x 130 Qty3 Flange bolts though Bolt Depot. 16mm is ~ 5/8"...so when you drill the frame you probably want to use a 21/32" drill...Silver & Deming....just a reduced shank drill. I had the engine out so I could drill from both sides and still had to touch the holes up with a diegrinder, There is a spacer interior to the frame, and it's not round...so be prepared to fight the drill.
The input shaft is different than what you have, the easiest solution is to source a steering shaft from the gear to the end of the column. And you need the firewall seal. I'll attach the p/n's
Lower shaft 9C3Z3B676A
Upper shaft 7C3Z3E751B
Seal 7C3Z-3D677-A
And you need the hose from the gear to the hydroboost.....use a hose that fits a 05-07.
There is a thread about this on PSA 2013+ Steering gear...
the pitman arm is different as well....the taper to the drag link.
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 640
Likes: 282
From: Texas
I'm running the 11-16 steering gear too. Well over a year and I can't say anything bad about it. The hardest part was sorting out the pitman arm. The taper for the drag link is the same, but the diameter is larger.
Also if you plan on using a drop pitman arm for the newer box, on my Ex, it hit the track bar bolt on left turns. I ended up fabbing a custom pitman arm to get by with. I've since swapped my axle so it's no longer an issue.
Also if you plan on using a drop pitman arm for the newer box, on my Ex, it hit the track bar bolt on left turns. I ended up fabbing a custom pitman arm to get by with. I've since swapped my axle so it's no longer an issue.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,813
Likes: 1,335
From: Elk Grove, CA
I'm running the 11-16 steering gear too. Well over a year and I can't say anything bad about it. The hardest part was sorting out the pitman arm. The taper for the drag link is the same, but the diameter is larger.
Also if you plan on using a drop pitman arm for the newer box, on my Ex, it hit the track bar bolt on left turns. I ended up fabbing a custom pitman arm to get by with. I've since swapped my axle so it's no longer an issue.
Also if you plan on using a drop pitman arm for the newer box, on my Ex, it hit the track bar bolt on left turns. I ended up fabbing a custom pitman arm to get by with. I've since swapped my axle so it's no longer an issue.
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 640
Likes: 282
From: Texas
I'll try to dig up pics, Aside from the obvious larger output shaft, the major differences are, the newer pitman arms larger bore diameter for the drag link, and it's just about and inch shorter. The shorter length is what caused the issue with the drop pitman arm hitting the track bar bolt.
Oem style pitman arm is straight, so that cleared everything ok.
There is supposedly a tierod end that will fit both the pitman arm and drag link split sleeve, adapting the two more practically. Unfortunately I never got a part number and had to do it the hard way.
I found a knuckle taper repair sleeve from sky offroad that worked as a temporary solution for the drag link. All that required was drilling out the taper and tacking the sleeve into the oem style pitman arm.
Later on, I moved the splines over from the new to the old arm. Using hole saws to remove the splines and tig them into the old arm. Installed some cross pins for good measure.
If you've got fab skills, it's cast steel, so preheat and slow cool and everything should be fine. It's been awhile, but I think I ran 3/32 er70s-6,
Oem style pitman arm is straight, so that cleared everything ok.
There is supposedly a tierod end that will fit both the pitman arm and drag link split sleeve, adapting the two more practically. Unfortunately I never got a part number and had to do it the hard way.
I found a knuckle taper repair sleeve from sky offroad that worked as a temporary solution for the drag link. All that required was drilling out the taper and tacking the sleeve into the oem style pitman arm.
Later on, I moved the splines over from the new to the old arm. Using hole saws to remove the splines and tig them into the old arm. Installed some cross pins for good measure.
If you've got fab skills, it's cast steel, so preheat and slow cool and everything should be fine. It's been awhile, but I think I ran 3/32 er70s-6,
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Joel59
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
Feb 29, 2020 07:49 PM
oldblue31
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
Jan 25, 2006 01:43 AM
Mark Smyth
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
Mar 7, 2000 05:48 PM
