Trying to figure out whats wrong with wifes 1984 Bronco 2. Heres how she describes it,in 3rd gear it feels like the truck is gasping for air. It seems to stumble or miss a couple beats and then is ok,she says it does this on right hand turns. We live on a curvey road so theres lots of right turns.I thought maybe a fuel filter so I changed that,(by carb),is there another somewhere? Anyone had a problem like this? Where do I start? Thanks,PTO DAVE.

 

I'm thinking you might have a pickup problem in the tank, does it do it more with low fuel.

 

I'm not familiar with the carbed BII's, but if this has a double sided float you may have a leak in one side of the float.

I discovered a carb. problem in my old Capri when I pulled off the side of the road, in Yosemite, on an embankment. There was a considerable slope and the car wouldn't start. The Yosemite Valley garage actually had the carb rebuild kit. All told it took me about half the day to get the kit, make the repair and get the car running again.

 

Ken thanks for the info,have any idea what it looks like inside tank,screen type thing at end of pick-up? Just curious if you have ever looked at the end of the pick-up? I will have her run low on gas and see if problem gets worse. Does anyone know if the carb has a double sided float like plilkoi says? I do not even know what kind of carb it is (stock) 2.8. HELP!!!! DAVE.

 

Be careful!! If she runs out of gas, she'll say you told her to and it's all your fault.

Trust me on this, I've been married for 18 years.

 

If she's anything like my wife, it's already his fault.

 

I'm not sure what they used, it should be soem type of a fine mess filter but I could be wrong.

 

Thanks you guys,my wife and I had a good laugh on the gas thing,anyone else care to chime in? Shes the orginal owner and its about 20 years old,maybe crap in tank? Anyone? Shes such a sweetheart I try my best to keep her happy,she really loves the truck. Thanks,PTO.

 

CHIME...Sounds like a float problem to me (low). Not familiar with that carb though.

 

It sounds like the fuel/float level (adjustment?) could be just a bit too low. And a fuel filter certainly could be suspect in this case. The factory setup uses just the one mounted to the carb, leading into the float bowl. It can be a real pain to replace without damaging the fittings, if you're not equipped with the proper wrenches. Some owners may feel it beneficial to add an additional in-line filter somewhere along the line.

Also very possible: check around for vacuum leaks. Pay particular attention to the black metal vacuum storage can, fastened to the right fender plastic shroud. Look for small cracks in its walls, around the cylinder. Rust will indicate where they exist. Cracks allow air to enter, compromising manifold vacuum and leaning out the fuel/air mixture.

On the other hand, there might be a build-up of dust and fuel deposits, sort of like 'mud', within some of the air and/or fuel passageways or the associated regulating orifices. There's also a vacuum-controlled diaphram on the bottom of the bowl, that determines whether the accellerator pump will get a "Full" shot, during accelleration, or a leaner one. I'd have to look at my service manual to be sure but, I think the ECU controls that unit using through vacuum relays under the cover, above the right fender. The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) could be going bad and the ECU error code(s) will indicate that.

If you're not already selective about the gasoline you buy, you could start by switching to a more reputable name brand gasoline. My order of preference is: Chevron, Exxon/Mobil and then Union-76. Actually the two latter brands are a toss-up. I tend to stay away from Shell and Texaco, and certainly the 'Quick-e-Mart' fuels, except in EMERGENCIES, although Citgo (available from some 7-11 stores) isn't too bad.

A good rule of thumb is, 'you get what you pay for' when it comes to fuel. It SO true, folks! There's DEFINITELY alot of JUNK-GAS out there! And the manufacturers know we'll buy it because it all part of being a "smart shopper". Well, one might be saving a few cents now and then at the pump buying the cheap stuff, but in the long run, it'll bite you back, and then some!

If the quality of fuel isn't the issue, then check the screws on the top of the carb body. You have to completely remove the air filter to gain access to all of them. Make sure they're snugged, but don't put too much muscle into it, or they'll be stripped out. If they're good, and you're still having problems, it might be the gaskets between the carb/manifold insulator plate.

There's one between it and the carb throttle plate, and another on the manifold side. Vacuum forces tend to suck those gaskets away from the edges, especially when any one of the carb hold-down nuts become lose. Time, vibration and the expansion/contraction forces caused by temperature changes, all contribute to the nuts loosening and/or the gaskets creeping away from their proper places. And unfortunately, retightening the nuts won't fix THAT problem.

It's necessary to remove the carb and then replace both gaskets. The nuts are usually 12-point (13mm/1/2"), and may require a deep well socket with a swivel adapter for the rear nuts.

While the carb is off the engine, record ALL the numbers you can find embossed or on labels for future reference, should you decide to get a replacement. It'll help insure you get the closest match to what you're now using. Printed labels will most likely be ruined beyond legibility, if they don't fall off completely, during the cleaning process. It's important to get EVERY orifice and passageway you can reach with the solvent!

It's MUCH cheaper than going the "rebuilt carb" route, and MOST of the time, it'll make all the difference! If, after all that, it STILL won't 'straighten up', you're left with the only option: the replacement carburetor.