That issue has been the subject of a couple of recent threads. Glad you got the info on it first. Always ok to give a shout out!

 

I finally got the "beast " started yesterday. I filled the radiator with fresh coolant. I changed the oil. I bought a battery, I rebuilt the carb'. I put new plugs and wires. I put a new fuel pump. Yesterday, I soaked the end of the new distributor in the old motor an it dropped right in. I pulled number one plug and I put a compression gauge in its place. I took jumper cables and bumped the starter over.As soon as the compression needle moved, I took a wooden pencil and placed it on top of the piston. I put pressure on the fan belt and turned the engine until I was satisfied that it was near TDC. I checked for a timing mark on the crankshaft but I could not see anything. I placed a 2 gallon container of fuel on the fender, strapped it down with a bungie cord and put a hose in it. I used jumper wires for the HEI coil straight to the battery. I had a new battery but I also used jumper cables from my F250. I pulled the choke and hit the key. As soon as the fuel made it up to the carb', I hit the accelerator and she fired right up. Purred like a kitten and idled just fine. No smoke or leaks.I did not have to move the distributor or adjust the carb'. I tried moving the truck and it acted like the wheels were chocked. I was careful not to hurt the clutch but it felt like I was trying to pull a stump in forward and reverse. I released the hand brake but it was not set. I let the engine get up to temperature and then I went home. I came back later. The truck started with a touch of the key and then I rocked the truck back and forth until she moved maybe a foot. The rear duelies were spinning. I finally used momentum and drove her a few yards forward and then I drove her back. The right front brake was locked solid. I remembered to disconnect the jumper to the coil and I went home. Tomorrow will be a day of trying to get a rusty brake unstuck. Looks like WD40 will have to work overtime... I have been starting engines with jumper cables and a glass Coke bottle full of leaded gasoline since the 1970's. It never gets old. It is still a thrill like a little boy with a Sears and Roebuck catalog in the outhouse, turned to the bra section... LOL

 

I've had good luck unsticking brakes by smacking the brake drum with a hummer, just don't bend the backing plate.

 

I had the great fortune of simply spraying WD 40 with a long flexible tube into the drum from the backside and the drum actually has a small access hole on the front edge, as well. I hopped into the truck, put her in reverse and then drove her up and out of the pasture and straight to my house. I laid awake worrying about this for nothing.I still have not touched the brake pedal. It probably does not have any hydraulic pressure but I plan on redoing the entire brake system. I just wanted to get it home where I could work on it. The area where the truck had been was "snakey". I had to cut and move a lot of trees that were down and the flat bed actually had a few Pines and an Oak growing on it. Timber Rattlers love this abandoned farm. Now, I can relax. Just knowing that I paid $200.00 for this truck and now it drove home on its own power puts a big grin on my old wrinkles up face. Thanks for your reply and your advice . BTW the truck did not smoke and the engine seems to be fine. The manifold studs at the pipes are broken off but all things considered...she was a barn find of the century and she wasn't even in a barn!!!! I parked her in the drive way right beside the Chrysler Labaron convertible that I bought for $200.00 from the same abandoned farm!!! My wife is out there washing it right now. I was hoping she would put on a bikini and wash my truck but she said it is my truck and I would have to shave my back before I wear a bikini to wash it.

 

 

Enjoied reading this !! Thank you for continuing to return, update and include photos !! Nice thing about being OLD, is we understand anything can be fixed ( and not thrown away)!
YOUR proceedure was correct on getting an old motor running! (my guess is the condenser was JUNK in the old distributor)

Mark
P.S. You know the plastic red/yellow mustard bottle from your childhood picnics?? 80% Filled with gas it will fill the fuel bowl of a carb fitting inside the vent tube !! Not mess, exact amount

 

I put a Mallory duel point distributor in a 289 Cougar back in the 70's then I pretended that I had a hotrod. I broke a motor mount and the stud for the airfilter poked a hole in my hood and I ruined the hood trying to open it. As far as my $200.00 farm truck, I do not have anything against points but I wanted to eliminate one headache so I just bought an HEI distributor (" plug and play"). I drove the truck home with a gas can and the coil straight wired off the battery with alligator clips. I painted the truck this weekend but she will be a work in progress because I bought another small horse farm and I am slowly moving from one farm to another. They put a subdivision on 80 acres beside me and the county rezoned my property. It is no longer Agricultural and I have chickens. The county outlawed roosters and I am not allowed to have more than 6 hens. I could fight it in court but it was just easier to move back out into the country and away from the "rat race". My wife butchered 24 young roosters this week end. She makes bone broth out of them and the new subdivision neighbors call animal control and code enforcement every time a rooster crows.I will download a couple of pictures of the 67. She still has perfect cab supports and only had two minor rust holes. One in the roof and some along the front of the hood.

 

She sat out in a pasture for more than 10 years

If you look close there is a puddle. I cut the fuel line and you can smell the old fuel from a distance.

 

That sure made it look better, your lucky, the front cab mounts are usually the first thing to go on a bump side.
I'm not a fan of points and it requires a little more wiring but I prefer the old Dura Spark electronic ignition over the GM style.
I had a 67 Cougar GT 390 4 spd back in the 70's but my first car was a 64 Fairline with a 289 I built, it had a Crane Fireball cam, headers and a Holley 4 bbl carb, I've always liked those little motors.
You subdivision neighbors would stroke out if they were next to me and my 96000 chickens, we are a agriculture county with ag protection laws, if one owns the min required acreage and it's used for ag purposes (neighbor cutting hay from it, raising a crop or pasturing some cows) it can not be rezoned, if there's a preexisting ag business there such as my poultry operation there's nothing any new neighbors can do about it.
I do live far enough out that I'll be long gone before any major population builds up around my farm.

 

I do not know the story on this truck. The hump has a cutout for a PTO but the flat bed that is on it has been on it for quite some time and it is not a dump bed. I knew the last owner and he hauled hay on it for years. I believe the truck has spent most of its life in this area of Georgia. This climate (near Stone Mountain) is very kind to cars and the bodies and frames just do not rot away. This particular truck is basically rust free other than some surface rust. The cab mounts look like they were on a truck that might be 10 years old. I know the truck spent most of its time on dirt roads. The frame and entire undercarriage are surprisingly clean. The odometer shows 80,000 and the engine grime looks like it but the rest of the truck is in great shape considering the age. I have not opened up the brakes yet but nothing on the suspension needs attention. I intend to replace everything on the brakes but I know that drums are not available and I believe brake boosters are hard to find, as well. I am very surprised that there is not a more modern brake system that you can just take a shopping list of parts and do the conversion all in the same day. I have converted old Dodge pickups to disc and all I needed was a parts list.

 

The in-cab fuel tank was beyond salvageable but I gave it a good attempt anyhow. I used a garden hose and got the large chunks out. I took a pressure washer and tried to get what looked like 1 inch thick tar out of it. I still had a gallon of Berryman's Chem-Dip carburetor parts cleaner. It made the disassembled carburetor look new so I poured the whole gallon in the tank. This morning the tank looked new, where the Berryman was. I rotated the tank and I will keep at it until it is all clean. I ordered some Damon's Red-Kote Gas Fuel Tank Sealer Liner. I thankfully do not have any holes or leaks so the sealer should just be additional protection and it will eliminate anything finding its way to the fuel filter, in the future. When the truck was still in the pasture I took air pressure and tried to push fuel up the fuel lines with the line disconnected at the fuel pump. It was clogged. I used a 2 and a half gallon plastic gas can strapped down with a bungee cord in order to start her up and drive her home. I ordered a new cap, sending unit (Part #: C1TZ-9275-K) and 4 inch x1 3/4 filler neck coupling (Part #: 78-9047)as well as a new grommet where the neck comes thru the body from Dennis Carpenter Ford Restorations. I just got a new floor mat from them and it is perfect. I ordered new weather stripping to go around the doors to keep the rain out. The old seals were still in pretty good shape. The floor boards do not have any pin hole rust through either. The cab and fender corners do not have any rot. The cab mounts are perfect. I am going to prime and paint the floor before the seat, fuel tank and floor mat go back in. I am going to replace as much of the brake system as I can so be watching for a lot of questions from me. I would love to be able to install a new (rebuilt) Master Cylinder, Power Assist and all new wheel cylinders. I understand that new drums are like trying to find a virgin and three wise men in Washington...

 

Well, I went ahead and gave up on the fuel tank. As I was washing out the carburetor cleaner two pin holes developed. Upon inspection, the holes became larger and I decided on a new tank. The floorboards cleaned up very well so that tells me that no water was getting in but the in cab fuel tank must have been left open to the elements or simply condensation contributed to rust in it. It did not have the original cap. I replaced all the rubber fuel lines and made sure the steel lines were holding pressure. I already rebuilt the carb' and replaced the fuel pump/filter. I bought an electric pump with braided hoses and a regulator but changed my mine when I found the original style mechanical fuel pump. The carburetor is a 2 barrel and I do not need a high pressure or high volume pump. I am not sure the old pump was bad but I do not want to find out on the side of the road that I made a poor decision.
I am going to have to remove and maybe replace the stock exhaust manifolds next...The studs are broke at the pipes and she is loud. What could possibly go wrong...LOL

 

Oh, and the water pump sprang a leak but I was expecting that the first time I started the truck. I ordered a new pump and heater delete plugs. I will never be driving her in the rain or in cold weather. The next owner can have the fun of putting in a new heater core because I am an old fart and this is my last big hurrah. I have pins and screws from my neck down to my ankles. I like the challenge of staying active but climbing in and out of the engine compartment of an old F600 frequently reminds me that I am NOT 20 years old anymore. What I used to do all night...now takes me all night to do.

 

I had this turned the right way but it is loading sideways...New in cab fuel tank. I painted the floorboards and I am ready for the seat to be reinstalled.