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Old Aug 12, 2020 | 09:58 PM
  #1  
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Computer acting up

I tried searching, but I don’t know what terms to use.

When I start my 2017 350, it’s a little surprise as to what will come up on the screen. Usually it’s the dash dimmer level...then it disappears. Today I got a wrench that didn’t go away, then on next start up I got HillDecent unavailable, and then something else that I forget now.
For the most part I can’t press the start button once. The engine will crank and cough out one half turn. Takes a couple presses to get it going.
I’m in Canada and I like my display in imperial not metric, I’ve had it in imperial since new ...when I change the units (Fahrenheit/Miles) to imperial they will change back to metric on the next start up. Also the clock, on the Sync screen goes to 24 hour clock and won’t stay on regular time.


Anyone have an idea?
 
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Old Aug 13, 2020 | 07:14 AM
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I’d start by looking at batteries , grounds, and inspecting integrity of wiring under the hood and truck
 
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Old Aug 13, 2020 | 07:33 AM
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Charging system to include battery, or cables. Agree with above.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2020 | 08:22 AM
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Thanks for the replies.
checked all that.
Did a voltage test too, 14.8 running 12.9 not running drops to 12.4 when starting.
Also looked for any codes.

Today my message was “check brake system”
 
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Old Aug 13, 2020 | 09:12 AM
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Do a voltage drop test for the cables.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2020 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by C12H24
Do a voltage drop test for the cables.
My voltage readings came from, the OBD port. Would that include any cable drop?

I was thinking about loading in my original software, but I never saved it before I went on my FORScan journey.
I haven’t played with FORScan in 4 years. I forget how to do it now.
Looks like I might be taking this to the dealer. I’ve never had the truck in for anything major before. Ugg...$$$
 
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Old Aug 13, 2020 | 10:44 AM
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Maybe the connectors at the rear of the truck? They are located in front of the bumper, between the frame rails. Lowering the tire makes the access a bit easier. Open the connectors and carefully inspect them for corrosion.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2020 | 11:32 AM
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I would test the battery directly, low battery even by a small bit can set off so many other issues.
If you have an Advanced Auto they will run the code thingy for free and test battery too for free
 
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Old Aug 13, 2020 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by klassic
My voltage readings came from, the OBD port. Would that include any cable drop?

...
Voltage drop test is different from reading system voltage. The purpose of voltage drop test is to understand resistance in the circuit. I'd explain to you the how but you'd think I was insane. It doesn't make sense to most. So, for that reason, I suggest you look it up. It's very easy to do and is vital when troubleshooting a problem like this. It might save you a trip to the dealer.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2020 | 02:27 PM
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need to load test batteries, independant of each other if you have two, disconnected from the truck.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2020 | 03:10 PM
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I also vote for the connectors at the rear as a first check, lots of issues there.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2020 | 09:30 PM
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You guys were right. It was the batteries.
One 12.7v, one 9.5v.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2020 | 05:07 AM
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Thanks for reporting back.
 
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