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Off grid - What will I need?

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Old Jan 27, 2021 | 06:33 PM
  #31  
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Spitballing the charge rate, it looks like it would be around 25 amps (300 watts / 12v = 25 amps). Trojan recommends 10% to 13% charge rate of the C20 rate, so a 305 amp battery would want 30.5 amps minimum. It looks like you're going to parallel two series connected batteries, so you have a theoretical 610 amps and need 61 charge amps. That solar suitcase is going to take quite a while to charge the battery bank. I've also read that charging at too low a rate can degrade lead acid batteries over time. I don't know what "too low" is.

Since you can aim the suitcase panels, you're likely to get more watts out of them than if they were flat on the roof of the RV. Most solar panels on RV roofs cannot be aimed. The "solution" there is to put more panels on the roof.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 10:08 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by HRTKD
Spitballing the charge rate, it looks like it would be around 25 amps (300 watts / 12v = 25 amps). Trojan recommends 10% to 13% charge rate of the C20 rate, so a 305 amp battery would want 30.5 amps minimum. It looks like you're going to parallel two series connected batteries, so you have a theoretical 610 amps and need 61 charge amps. That solar suitcase is going to take quite a while to charge the battery bank. I've also read that charging at too low a rate can degrade lead acid batteries over time. I don't know what "too low" is.
The batteries are actually rated at 360 amps, which makes the formula worse. After reading reviews, it looks like using a mppt controller, people are getting 15-20 amps out of the panels. I don't see doing 10% (70 amps is a lot) in the near future. I'm hoping for 120+ amps a day. With daily use at 160-200 amps (without trying to be very conservative), I could go 4+ days before half life on the batteries, and going really conservative, I would be fully charging everyday. Of course that is assuming, I can set the panels where they get decent light when I'm out and about.

Originally Posted by HRTKD
Since you can aim the suitcase panels, you're likely to get more watts out of them than if they were flat on the roof of the RV. Most solar panels on RV roofs cannot be aimed. The "solution" there is to put more panels on the roof.
I will try to evaluate the "real world" conditions on our camping run this year out west, i.e.; on average will the panels work best out in the yard or on the roof. I'm thinking at least double the wattage roof panels to compensate for, like you said, the inability to move the panels to the light.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 11:03 AM
  #33  
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If you can.. over build some. The biggest factor when mounting on the roof will be shading from miscellaneous items up there. Summertime it's pretty easy to harvest lots of power even with shading, long sunny days and the arc is higher in the sky.

The challenge comes in the shoulder seasons and winter, shorter sunny days and the low arc of the sun. This is where shading comes in to play and can kill potential power production. If you don't mind dancing with panels throughout the day then portables can be a solution.

With my 1,280w flat mounted on the roof in a 2s4p configuration my daily production average in the winter in AZ is roughly 3kwh or 240ah +/- to the batteries and balance produced running my daily loads through the day. Having lfp batteries makes it much easier than dealing with the limitations of lead batteries.

Here some totals from the previous years of the system (everyday use).
 
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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 11:48 AM
  #34  
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The geek in me wishes that I had put in a monitoring system that allowed me to capture the amount of data that scraprat does. I have the Victron BMV-712 battery monitor and it is excellent for what it does. But it simply doesn't store historical data. There is a higher level Victron system monitor that does. I think I can connect the BMV-712 to the Victron Cerbo GX to get that type of historical data. I'm also considering putting in a Raspberry Pi device that can grab the historical data. The screen that can be added to the Cerbo GX is cool, but I don't think I need that.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 04:10 PM
  #35  
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Jim I've been recording this now for almost 5 years and with that much time invested it's like I can't stop now.

Plus, I was curious when the end of life comes for the batteries how much power was actually used and restored in the bank, as of now roughly 443,000ah.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2021 | 08:50 PM
  #36  
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as to the posters question.
what are your needs, wants?
as to having power (12 volts DC) invest in at least 6, six volt deep cycle lead acid batt's. or less of the very costly lipo units.
one could get away with just charging off the trucks alt.
solar, can get very costly to set up and maintain.
portable gen (many sizes here) or a on-board gen. gen can be fueled by gasoline (best bet), diesel found on class A units), or propane (burns through this FAST).
water, carry twice as much as you think you will need. bottles (very pricey), jugs filled at home, or a water bladder in the trucks bed.
food? as you like. cans are heavy.
rv supply's. what your wallet can deal with, up to space requirements.
if you like to get away from everything, just have a way to call for help, cell phone, cb radio, satellite phone, ham radio. i have been (yes here in the USA.) were it takes many people relaying a message to get help via cb radio just to find a phone that can call out.
 
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