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I am trying to remove my rear rotor but they are frozen. The truck has 86k and the rear brakes have never been touched until now. I am used to my 01 f250 where the rotors just slipped on and off just like the fronts. I watched some videos and it looks like they just wack the rotor a couple of times to break the rust loose and it comes right off. Do you have to pull the emergency shoes in before removing the rotor?
Just pulled the manual for the 2017, it doesn't look like there are any fasteners to remove other than the caliper mounting bracket. It would be different if you had a DRW, though. See attached:
We just did a rear brake job on a 17 F350. Rotor was rusted and would not slide off. We tried backing out the adjusters and they were frozen. Huge inner rust lip on the rotor Ended up having to cut the rotors hat off and prying the shoes in. I've never had such a horrible time in my life...
We just did a rear brake job on a 17 F350. Rotor was rusted and would not slide off. We tried backing out the adjusters and they were frozen. Huge inner rust lip on the rotor Ended up having to cut the rotors hat off and prying the shoes in. I've never had such a horrible time in my life...
thats my fear with this but i am hoping for the best haha. Seems like the rotor back is just rusted on. Letting it soak in a couple gallons of penetrating oil for a little bit.
Use a torch and heat the hat of the rotor up. The hat is the raised area of the rotor where the studs protrude through the rotor. Not unusual (in just about every car and truck) with disc brakes to have the rotors stick to the axles or hubs. That's especially true for rotors that have not been removed in a long time.
Rust was an issue on my recent brake job too. Once I had the caliper off completely, I used a stud and nuts to act like a driver to push the rotor off, rotating the rotor ¼ or ½ turn every so often. The stud on the ground is what was used, plus washers. If you picture it on the ground but flip it so the double nut is on the inside towards the shock, the single nut gets threaded in after the stud pokes through the caliper mount, then slowly tighten, back off and rotate, and repeat. The stud will put imperfections in the rotor surface so they will have to be replaced or turned. I ended up using this trick on all four corners, and as a side note I’m very happy with the Powerstop Z36 pad and slotted rotor kit.
Rust was an issue on my recent brake job too. Once I had the caliper off completely, I used a stud and nuts to act like a driver to push the rotor off, rotating the rotor ¼ or ½ turn every so often. The stud on the ground is what was used, plus washers. If you picture it on the ground but flip it so the double nut is on the inside towards the shock, the single nut gets threaded in after the stud pokes through the caliper mount, then slowly tighten, back off and rotate, and repeat. The stud will put imperfections in the rotor surface so they will have to be replaced or turned. I ended up using this trick on all four corners, and as a side note I’m very happy with the Powerstop Z36 pad and slotted rotor kit.
That's the kit i'll be doing on mine, I am at 40% break life in the rear and 60% in the front. Had the Z36 on my last F150 and loved them!
Rust was an issue on my recent brake job too. Once I had the caliper off completely, I used a stud and nuts to act like a driver to push the rotor off, rotating the rotor ¼ or ½ turn every so often. The stud on the ground is what was used, plus washers. If you picture it on the ground but flip it so the double nut is on the inside towards the shock, the single nut gets threaded in after the stud pokes through the caliper mount, then slowly tighten, back off and rotate, and repeat. The stud will put imperfections in the rotor surface so they will have to be replaced or turned. I ended up using this trick on all four corners, and as a side note I’m very happy with the Powerstop Z36 pad and slotted rotor kit.
That's a pretty good idea.
My old Tacoma had 2 threaded holes in the face so all I had to do to remove them was thread 2 bolts in and tighten them up. They popped the rotor off without any drama. Why all rotors aren't made like that is beyond me!
My old Tacoma had 2 threaded holes in the face so all I had to do to remove them was thread 2 bolts in and tighten them up. They popped the rotor off without any drama. Why all rotors aren't made like that is beyond me!
first you want a transmission dipstick and now some threaded holes in the rotor. whats next, a water pump the doesnt require 9hrs to change
Just did a 70K oil & filter change on my 2017 F250 this morning. Checked the pads and noticed the fronts are getting below backing plate thickness. Rears are a bit better, but plan to replace both soon. In my years of working on cars (mostly imports) I've always left the rotors alone and just replaced the pads unless they're warped, too thin, or damaged by pads going metal to metal. This is my first Ford F250 though. What's the consensus on just slapping on new OEM pads if the rotors are serviceable?
I've had pretty good luck with stuck rotors, drums and steel wheels using a hand held air hammer with a flat topped bit. Beat on the top and sides of the hat a bit and it usually breaks the rust bond.
Just did a 70K oil & filter change on my 2017 F250 this morning. Checked the pads and noticed the fronts are getting below backing plate thickness. Rears are a bit better, but plan to replace both soon. In my years of working on cars (mostly imports) I've always left the rotors alone and just replaced the pads unless they're warped, too thin, or damaged by pads going metal to metal. This is my first Ford F250 though. What's the consensus on just slapping on new OEM pads if the rotors are serviceable?
If you're not going to put new rotors on, have the old ones turned. I used to cheap out and just slap new pads on without dealing with the rotors during brake changes. But I found out your brake pads perform better on new surface. Even though the rotors might look good, they're not perfectly smooth.
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