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Is this a concours restoration? Your not going to 100% match the original paint its just not possible. The regs on paint have changed and so have the metallic components, you can get close but not exact. What is your budget? There is Kirker on the low end and HOK on the high end. The difference is 100.00 a gallon vs 600.00 a gallon.
RM and PPG are the standard high quality paints. what I use 90 percent of the time. not cheap but great products. my favorite is Glasurit but it's too expensive for anything but trailer queens.
As gashog says it will be nearly impossible to exactly match your old paint, and why would you. the newer paints are superior in every way including looks. in my opinion , base/clear paint that closely resembles the original color is an acceptable upgrade just like radial tires.
Stay away from the elcheapo garbage unless you're just shooting beater to haul wood in. you get what you pay for in paint more than anything else I can think of.
RM and PPG are the standard high quality paints. what I use 90 percent of the time. not cheap but great products. my favorite is Glasurit but it's too expensive for anything but trailer queens.
As gashog says it will be nearly impossible to exactly match your old paint, and why would you. the newer paints are superior in every way including looks. in my opinion , base/clear paint that closely resembles the original color is an acceptable upgrade just like radial tires.
Stay away from the elcheapo garbage unless you're just shooting beater to haul wood in. you get what you pay for in paint more than anything else I can think of.
Thanks for the advice. I guess I am a bit crazy for wanting the color to match exactly; I guess I just don’t want anything that’s too x or x. I’ll check out RM and PPG—thanks for the suggestions.
Even if you aren't experienced in painting AND color matching you will probably be reasonably close to the original color IF a complete /overall paint job. Every PINT of paint has at least 1/2 dozen shades you can manipulate out of it when painting.Changing or adjusting the thinning,number of coats,air pressure,distance of gun from vehicle, etc.; will give you a different shade from the exact same can of paint. Spraying out test panels BEFORE painting is very time consuming but if an exact match is needed it would be probably the only route to go. The bottom line is what others have suggested.... good quality brand name like PPG,spray away, and I think you will be thrilled with the results. One further thought; if you had your original truck & the same newly painted truck side by side,out in the sun; it would be probably the only way you would see or tell a huge difference in color (unless your paint job did something really weird), Good luck!
Price depends a lot on the color. red is the most expensive. white or something like that you might get a quality base in that price range. but then you have to buy clear too. you might consider a urethane if price is a real consideration. I just bought a gallon of white RM urethane and it was in your budget.
"Stay away from ppg Omni unless you don’t take your truck outdoors. I’m with the urethane suggestions."
Sounds like you had a bad experience with PPG Omni . I use Omni & Omni Plus almost exclusively in my body shop.Zero problems,great paint! Sorry about your problem but there are other reasons for paint failure rather than the actual topcoats.
Fading and chalking. I used Omni and a buddy put it on a mustang with the same problems. Both set out all summer. He put Centauri on a Camaro it’s been in the back field 20 years and is still shiny.
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