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So ive been living with some ac issues for thefofew years I've owned my 2004 6.0. When I bought it, the AC wasn't working, so i had it recharged and that seemed to do the trick. Until it didnt.. it became clear there was a small leak somewhere. I was near the end of summer and didnt care to track it down then. Then came ither issues.. first the airbstarted only blowing out of the defrost, then it began only blowing hot air. I loved with this for two years. Finally enough was enough. I dug in and realized that my vacuum pump had gone out on me, likely due to a broken vacuum line. After replacing both i can now controll where the air comes from. I then realized the bland door motor had gone bad and replaced it as well and can now controll the temp controll. I had the ac system recharged at a shop. The machine detected no leaks, but im told thats not always accurate. Everything was seemingly going great. Ac blowing cold and controlls fully working. Then I went for a drive and realized after a few mins of driving the ac stops working. It doesn't blow hot aor, but not conditioned air either. It's been 95 degrees all week and my 10 week old pup is starting to hate my truck... any thoughts?
Mine has started doing the same thing. Blows cold for a while, gets much warmer (not hot) Then comes back to cold. No real rhyme or reason, but maybe it works better at lower RPM like start and stop traffic. I have 50psi on the low side pressure which is supposed to be good. I’m planning to check power to the compressor and see if there is a time when it’s commanded on but the compressor isn’t running. I think that would be the clutch slipping. If so, I’ve read there are two shims behind it something like .060 and .020in and the thinner one can be removed to tighten it back up. I plan to check on all that this weekend. Good luck with yours!
i did find if I press the A/C button to turn off the compressor(I have the digital controls) give it a couple of minutes and get up to speed then turn the A/C back on it will work for a good long time, until I pull a large hill or have to stop. I’ve also noticed my fan (at the radiator) speed Doesn’t act like it used to. Temps are hot here but it’s never over 500RPM these days. No high temps on coolant/oil but it used to go 800-1200 RPM when the temps got over 200. So it may be another issue. If you can check your fan speed you may want to see if it’s acting right also.
There's been several recent posts on this subject lately. On the AC clutch kicking in and out. You can check you clearance like so. And yes if it's more than specs, you can remove a washer to bring it closer. Make sure you clutch doesn't get locked on all the time or bad things will happen.
Another thing you can do is install a high idle mod on your truck. Basicly run a toggle switch to your pto power wire(light blue with yellow strip) in your pto wire bundle by your emergency brake pedal.
Basicly what it does is bring your idle from 640 to 1200rpm. It gives more airflow to your AC witch closes down when it gets to a certain temp. I'm not an expert but have done these modes on my truck. When I do red light red light driving my AC will go warm. I'LL put it in park at light and hit toggle switch, rpm's go up which means the fan will kick up and AC will blow cold.
You can check fan speed with both Forscan and Torque Pro.
Folks -- no mysteries here, these systems generally behave as designed with rare exception and you guys can solve it -- pick up a quality set of gauges (Mastercool, SnapOn, FieldPiece, etc) and a good DMM (I've been using Flukes for decades) and you'll solve these issues. If you think you have leaks (ALL automotive systems develop leaks over time) pick up some UV dyes (I use Tracer products, but others are just as good) and a good UV light (I'm impressed with Fluke's latest, but also use others and would just say to ensure you match the UV dye up to the wavelength of your detector (light))..................
If your vehicles utilize EATC (Electronic Auto Temp Ctrl), many aftermarket scan tools can access this module too -- right there on the DLC bus.............
Last summer my AC would run cold and then it would get hot. Cold, hot. Hot, cold, etc. Turned out to be the clutch gap. You can get shim kits at Oreilly's but they are proud of their shims, just sayin'. I made my own. Its good to have a lathe.
Since that got fixed it still gets warm for short periods when stopped at lights or idling. I'm hoping a fan replacement will take care of it. Should be here tomorrow. My stock fan has probably 270k on it.
Thank you Visurveyor for posting the specs - I removed clutch, removed my shim, installed and now back withing spec and now the AC clutch is working, and cold air again!
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