Brake line replacement and bleeding
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2008
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Brake line replacement and bleeding
I’m putting on a set of KLM stainless brake hoses and was wondering what the best practice would be to install and bleed the brakes on my 2019 F350. It has occurred to me that the best way to go about it is to do one brake line at a time and bleed that line before moving on to another line, rather than put all four lines on and then bleed the brakes. It seems better to me to be pushing the air out of a single line, leaving the others full, than to be pushing against air in all lines. Am I thinking correctly? First time to change brake lines.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 2,833
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From: Southeast MO
That's what I'd do to make sure I didn't drain my reservoir. I'm getting ready to do the same on my Pioneer and I plan on doing one at a time. Curious to hear your feedback about pedal feel once you get it done.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
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I like to completely remove old lines before installing new lines and I've never figured out how to do it and NOT drain the reservoir. You might be able to cut off and then cap, crush, or bend the lines immediately leaving the ABS unit so that it does not drain. Then depending on how the lines run from your reservoir to your ABS you can make a bleeding strategy.
I've done complete replacement on two different trucks with ABS (and others without ABS) and maybe I got lucky. I bled the lines, found some slick mud to slam the brakes (activating the ABS unit), and then re-bled the lines.
Edit for misread: Thought you meant lines and not hoses. For hoses, just have a ready made cap to stop the lines from bleeding. Or with good planning you can do it without capping lines. They don't bleed that fast...at least not for me.
I've done complete replacement on two different trucks with ABS (and others without ABS) and maybe I got lucky. I bled the lines, found some slick mud to slam the brakes (activating the ABS unit), and then re-bled the lines.
Edit for misread: Thought you meant lines and not hoses. For hoses, just have a ready made cap to stop the lines from bleeding. Or with good planning you can do it without capping lines. They don't bleed that fast...at least not for me.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2018
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As was mentioned, whatever method you use, it's important to not allow the master cylinder to run dry. Not that it can't be fixed if you do, but you'd rather not bench bleed the master cylinder if you don't have to.
It's also relatively easy to remove lines without making a huge flood of brake fluid. You have to use line caps (plugs). I suggest you get some or make some before you start the job.
It's also relatively easy to remove lines without making a huge flood of brake fluid. You have to use line caps (plugs). I suggest you get some or make some before you start the job.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
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Not completely as in not overnight, but probably slow things down.
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 113
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Leave the cap on the master cylinder. Remove one hose at a time and replace it. You'll lose some fluid but that's ok. Like others have said, periodically check it and make sure the master cylinder doesn't run dry.
As for bleeding, start with the passenger rear, then the drivers rear, then front passenger, then driver front. You always work from farthest away to closest to master cylinder.
As for bleeding, start with the passenger rear, then the drivers rear, then front passenger, then driver front. You always work from farthest away to closest to master cylinder.
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