Suspension Recommendations | Dana 44 Swap 1990 F150
#1
Suspension Recommendations | Dana 44 Swap 1990 F150
Hey Everyone,
As I'm wrapping up the last of the pile of parts for the swap, I've reached a massive fork... Suspension. At a high level, I'm planning on only doing a 4" lift in support of the dana 44 I have out of a 78' Bronco. I'm pretty sure that I need the springs for a 78' bronco for the front, but I don't think there are any spring/damper kits that are specific for this swap that also include a matching setup for the rear. I'd like to hear people's thoughts and experience on what springs and dampers they used as part of this swap.
As I'm wrapping up the last of the pile of parts for the swap, I've reached a massive fork... Suspension. At a high level, I'm planning on only doing a 4" lift in support of the dana 44 I have out of a 78' Bronco. I'm pretty sure that I need the springs for a 78' bronco for the front, but I don't think there are any spring/damper kits that are specific for this swap that also include a matching setup for the rear. I'd like to hear people's thoughts and experience on what springs and dampers they used as part of this swap.
#2
#3
Yes, that's the plan. However, the intent around the question was about brand front and rear for both leafs and coils. I know there are a ton of options that can be mis-matched and made to just "work". I'm looking for opinions on what people's experiences are with the various brands. Oh, and dampers as well.
#4
I had a parts truck with this setup. I believe it was a 6" lift. Where the crossmember goes below the motor is going to get pretty close to your pumpkin. If I remember correctly, it looked like I wouldn't go less than 6. I'm assuming you're after offroad performance. Advertised springrates are what you're after. Superflex will have terrible street manners, skyjacker will have okay crawling manners. Somewhere in between is probably what you want.
#5
I had a parts truck with this setup. I believe it was a 6" lift. Where the crossmember goes below the motor is going to get pretty close to your pumpkin. If I remember correctly, it looked like I wouldn't go less than 6. I'm assuming you're after offroad performance. Advertised springrates are what you're after. Superflex will have terrible street manners, skyjacker will have okay crawling manners. Somewhere in between is probably what you want.
#6
leaves for the rear can be made more flexy etc. with teflon liners.
#7
I recently put a set of 4" procomp leafs in my truck. I didn't want that much lift though so I pulled the stock lift blocks and used a 2" drop shackle (for newer f150s). With Bilstein 5100 shocks they work really well, seems like great bang for the buck. It's a 6 leaf pack vs the 4 I had before, and is much more progressive. The other pack was just harsh all the time.
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#8
I'm primarily looking for building an overlander. So, it'll need to still carry quite a bit of payload in the back, but not destroy everything in the truck while doing it.
#9
I recently put a set of 4" procomp leafs in my truck. I didn't want that much lift though so I pulled the stock lift blocks and used a 2" drop shackle (for newer f150s). With Bilstein 5100 shocks they work really well, seems like great bang for the buck. It's a 6 leaf pack vs the 4 I had before, and is much more progressive. The other pack was just harsh all the time.
#10
So no lift blocks. Consider a traction bar for the rear to prevent axle wrap. Use lift bags as an overload. Just pick your ride/lift height and go with it.
And honeslty I'd keep the TTB. For an overlander it will be fine. It's not like your building a rock buggy. Just replace all your bushings with poly urethane. I used energy suspension.
And honeslty I'd keep the TTB. For an overlander it will be fine. It's not like your building a rock buggy. Just replace all your bushings with poly urethane. I used energy suspension.
#11
So no lift blocks. Consider a traction bar for the rear to prevent axle wrap. Use lift bags as an overload. Just pick your ride/lift height and go with it.
And honeslty I'd keep the TTB. For an overlander it will be fine. It's not like your building a rock buggy. Just replace all your bushings with poly urethane. I used energy suspension.
And honeslty I'd keep the TTB. For an overlander it will be fine. It's not like your building a rock buggy. Just replace all your bushings with poly urethane. I used energy suspension.
#12
Here is a picture of one I built for a jeep Cherokee I built. Worked well and had the added bonus of protecting the driveshaft
#13
#14
Thanks. The shackle needs to be the same length as the leaf spring shackles and relatively parallel to them as well. Thats why I had to cut a whole into the passenger compartment. The cover was a loaf pan, I don't think my wife ever found out. 😁