I asked a question a couple weeks ago about swapping in a Lightning ECM because I had a suspicion that mine was on the fritz. How should I test to confirm that the ECM has failed?


Summary: This is on a '95 F-150 5.8 RWD with E4OD and 153k miles. The truck has been displaying odd behavior. ABS light came on last week and stayed on (never had a problem with it before and hasn't come on since). Turn signal stopped flashing, clicking, or lighting up on the dash, and then it randomly started working again. Will not turn over with the key switch (just clicks), but turns over strong and free when using a remote starter button clipped to the solenoid on the fender. It was running last week even though I was cranking it with the remote starter button. This week, I have no spark. Today, when I turn the ignition on, the fuel pump stays on rather than just doing the momentary prime. I tried to pull codes today through a KOEO test, but the code reader could not connect to the computer.


Background: 2.5 years ago, the truck was running ok and then it wouldn't start one morning. Turned out no spark. Replaced it with an new MSD coil. Started up and ran fine for a week, then I lost spark. At this point, I had decided to pull the engine because it was leaking from several spots including the oil pan (and I thought rear main seal) and was overdue for some TLC. I was suspicious of the key switch and battery cables because I was having a situation where I would turn the key and nothing would happen, then turn it again and fire right up.

So 2 years ago I started unbolting the engine, pulled it, and freshened it up a bit with new parts - gaskets and seals all over, timing chain, harmonic balancer, water pump, fan clutch, rebuilt GT-40 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, full exhaust, O2 sensor, vacuum lines, oil pump, TPS, ICM, PCV, EGR system, battery cables, battery, idler pulley, tensioner, and thermostat. Injectors cleaned and flow tested. Did a smog pump delete and oil cooler delete.

Life got in the way. I finally got it back in the truck this spring. Got it fired up a few weeks ago. Drove it around a little. All the sudden I have no spark. I replaced the ignition key switch because it was worn out. That has led up to everything mentioned in the Summary. So, with everything that I replaced, the engine ran well when it ran, but I've realized that I'm having some of the exact same problems I had before I pulled the engine - not turning over (just clicking) when the ignition is turned to start and no spark.


With this odd behavior, is the ECM the likely culprit? How do I test it? What else should I be checking?

 

The fuel pump staying on, no codes are indicators of a bad PCM. There is a test procedure I found on here, you'll have to search for it cause my memory sucks, maybe fordfuelinjection.com. Tells which wires and what voltage to look for.

 

Stickman's right, but link doesnt go where it use to
maybe this, works, same place
Fuel Injection Technical Library » No Codes?

 

You may have to replace the electronic portion of the ignition switch on the column connected via a rod attached to the keyswitch and a rectangular wiring block..Theyre like $15 bux and can be changed in under an hour in most trucks..




Another thought is the wiring at the solenoid where all the power portions of the truck attach to.It could be oxidized and in need of servicing.

In my truck it was a simple ground wire problem.........

Good Luck

 

Thanks for the input and the links. Will start working through it.

 

Ok. I'm not familiar with that part. I know the actuator rod can be problematic, but mine appears to be moving properly when I turn the switch. Other than replacing it, is there a good method for isolating that electronic part of the ignition to determine if it is faulty.

I replaced the ground wires that I was aware of. Which one was problematic for you?

 

That part makes all the power points connect and come alive when the key is turned in the On position and it also activates the starter.when the keyswitch is twisted to its max and activates accessory power when key is turned backwards aswell..It has thick copper terminals inside and two of those pins handle and distribute the full amperage load of the battery into the different spots its needed throughout the fusepanel and distribution blocks etc..

Sometimes they can get like this.....Its called a Hotspot and not wifi related either........LOL



On another truck the screws on that unit I posted loosened up and wouldnt totally shut the power for the truck off totally either unless I pounded the steering wheel...Seeings it was deemed to be faulty because it wasnt engaging in unison with key position correctly with the solid defined click stops in both positions before it engages start mode so I bought one beforehand and seeings it was only $15 bux it wasnt gonna break the bank also would of had to be replaced anyways.........Making sure it operates correctly by having it properly adjusted is a must when installing one and isnt overly hard with a 5/16" or 8mm wrench to loosen the screws to adjust it.....

On my current truck I was having intermittent problems with my blinkers brakelights and hazards with no blown fuse...I even changed the multiswitch under the steering wheel and found someone buttspliced a ground for the reese trailer brake and it whittled down the strands over the years causing a poor ground....

The time I had a problem with fuelpump always running the wires for the fuelpump relay and the relay itself melted together and backfed power into the system with the key off...........Its behind the airbox next to the PCM relay and the OBD1 test connector...

After buying an aftermarket fuel pump relay plug along with brand new fuel pump relay plus a new PCM relay from autozone the pump didnt deactivate after being pressured up when key is left on without starting it...The pump ran the truck but wasnt right..It turned out the PCM trigger wire on the aftermarket fuel pump relay plug I got from Autozone wasn't pinned out correctly..Once I put the criss-crossed wires on the right pins by swapping wires by crossing the wire colors which were pins #1 and #3 on a schematic I saw and it worked as it was supposed to by activating for 3 seconds to pressure up the fuel system then shutting off until engine fires-up...

Good Luck

 

Swapped out Ignition Switch under the dash. Coupled with the new ignition lock cylinder, there is a definite improvement in the feel of the key turn. It feels like new. However, there seems to be no significant change in the behavior of the truck. Dash doesn't light up. Fuel pump no longer runs continuously, but it doesn't prime any more either.

I pulled the ECM for visual inspection. It appears that I have corrosion from leaking capacitors. Reckon this is my problem?

 

The 9th Gen ford Ignition switch will be on the steering column and actually look a bit more like this, the other picture is an 8th gen, bricknose, Ignition switch

 

You know whats funny is my old PCM looked like that after I did the massive mods on my truck as the computer fritzed out so badly from being confused from not knowing how to adjust itself it burnt up...LOL,,,So for your question if a lightning EEC will work ..It will if the lightning has the same variables as what is in your setup and is OBD1 plus MAP sensor instead of mass air or you're gonna need a custom burnt chip..

As you do or don't know that the parameters for the bone stock engine with all EPA strangleholds is preburnt onto the chip and set for the duration and lift of the stock camshaft..Other variables in the EEC are burnt and are non-adaptable too..I sent my replacement EEC to Kenne Bell to have my EEC adjusted to match the mods aswell as change WOT spark advance and fuel events........There's like two other companies others trust but I trust in the company involved in the development of the EFI system....

Good Luck getting yours sorted out..........

 

I could've sworn the 9th gen was 1996 or 1997 and up when the trucks went to OBD2 connectors under the dash and I've worked on and built a 1995 Monstrosity so I know the switch I posted is the right one.....Im not sure but I believe the Lightnings were considered passenger trucks so the OBD 2 computer started in I believe 93 so as I think about it even the lightning EEC he wants to use needs to be researched for compatability as Im sure they're mass air flow too......

Heres a short vid I took about 45 mins ago just so everybody can hear what my truck with 565,000 miles still runs and sounds like...Its almost gonna be a shame to pull the engine and trans out when the new 408 stroker gets here on Tuesday but in the name of progress its time for the old to make way for the new.....LOL

 

....Yes....

 

Can't speak for anyone else, but mine did look like the one in this pic.

 

if yours not a daily driver, crashtestdummy member here fixes them, link below
FTE member offering free ECM repair - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

Thanks for the link. It's already in the mail headed his way. He felt confident about being able to clean up the board and replace the capacitors, but he is concerned about the black rectangular part below the power diode that has corrosion on it. He said if it's some sort of integrated chip then it's toast, but it may just be some sort of thermal barrier with corrosion caused by the leaking capacitors. I will update the thread when I hear back from him.