How do you adjust the throttle cable that goes from the foot pedal to the carburator. I think that is ny problem. I have alot of slack on my gas pedal leaving me about 1 inch from where it pulls to the floor. any suggestions will be appreciated.

 

Have someone hold the pedal to the floor (with the engine off) and look to see if the throttle plate opens all the way.

 

WELL IT GOES 1/4 THE WAY UP LOOKS LIKE MY CABLE IS STRETCHED. I MODIFIED THE CABLE AT THE GAS PEDAL AND TOOK IT FOR A TEST DRIVE. LOKKS LIKE I GOT MORE POWER NOW ANY OTHER SUGGESTION WILL BE GREAT THANK YOU

 

When I did the upgrade on my '84, using parts from an '88, I took the small throttle-cable spring (found at the gas pedal lever end) from the extra cable and stacked it with the existing spring (making TWO stacked springs), to take up the most of the 1-inch or so of slack in the cable. The springs also prevent my right foot from over-stressing the throttle linkage too much, should I feel like "putting the pedal to the metal".

I recall, on another thread a while ago, someone using what sounded like a "kit", with which a piece of something like a slit vinyl tubing is placed between the pedal lever (top end) and the existing spring and its plastic end caps and then tie-wrapped back together.

After the necessary measurements of how much slack reduction is desired and possible, the modification is most easily done with the pedal end of the cable freed from the pedal lever and firewall, working next to the left front fender.

It's easy to slip the bead at the end of the cable off the top of the pedal lever, once you get yourself into position down there. If you have the automatic transmission, make sure you're working with the throttle cable, not the tranny "kickdown" control cable.

Once you've gotten the cable off the lever, use a med-sized screwdriver to release the clips holding the cable outer housing to the firewall. Watch out for the foam/rubber seal between clip-flange and the firewall; it's rather fragile. It's there to prevent liquids from passing through at that point whenever they're present.

Adding a tube without putting a slit in its side, can be done, if it's done carefully! Alternately, some hardware stores sell packages of assorted small springs. If one found a longer version of the existing throttle-cable spring (with the same compression rating and diameter), that would be the most "professional" modification.

I started by putting slits down one side of each of the spring's plastic end-caps with a VERY sharp utility knife, after separating them from the spring. Then carefully pull the inner cable through those slits, removing them from the cable. Once the bead-end cap is removed, the spring should slip over the bead without resistance so beware to not lose it.

I suppose one COULD put the chosen device on between the opposite cap and spring at this point, but I deemed it best to put the add-in spring assembly so that it's making contact with the pedal lever.

What ever is used for taking up the slack, the plastic spring-cap originally removed from the bead-end of the cable SHOULD be what's put back there when reassembled! The spring will then prevent the half-split caps from spreading open.

It all seems like a lot of work and attention to detail, but if done right and well, at first it'll feel like you're driving a new vehicle, as you accustom your right foot to the new pedal position. I personally like having the accellerator pedal positioned closer to the level of the brake pedal, since I use the same (right) foot for both tasks.