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So I finally got my truck (1964 Cdn F350) finished enough to make it road worthy. However shortly after getting it on the road I began to experience poor engine performance.
The truck seems to hesitate during acceleration, it wants to runs smooth but it seems to stutter a bit when pushing down the accelerator, other symptoms include the exhaust is black, the spark plugs are black and poor fuel MPG, I burnt 1/2 a tank on 60 miles. I was reading about how to set up the electric choke, will verify wiring tomorrow as it seems to be wrong as I can't find a wire going to a 12v source (nothing hooked up) however the choke flap is full open but the engine acts as if it were full closed, manually the choke and throttle cables are not connected. I also noticed what to me seems like excessive amount of oil in the air filter. I know it is supposed to have oil for the screen but I am unsure how much there should be.
The other thing we noticed is the is an inline fuel filter from the tank to the pump, it seems to bubble with air, I am going to blow out the lines and check what appears to be a filter bowl at the bottom tomorrow as well.
If there are any other ideas out there please let me know.
So, I am no diagnostician, however, whenever I see any vehicle that needs TLC, like yours, or mine when I first get them, I go through them automatically and change points, plugs, condenser, plug wires, ignition coil, fuel filter, clean the gas tank. Is there a canister fuel filter on the fuel pump in addition to the in-line one? You don’t need two. That carb may be the wrong one for your truck (people do that all the time) or it may be incorrectly set up with the wrong jets, etc.
I don’t feel one bit bad about overspending, because the truck was going to need those things anyway. I put in the appropriate Pertronix, and ditch the points. I can’t rebuild carbs for shiz, no matter how simple, so I try to pay someone who’s good at it to do it for beer and a steak dinner, or else I put a good reman on it.
I think someone here said, 90% of all carburetor problems are ignition related, or some such? I willingly spend the money, because I enjoy driving my truck a whole lot more than I like working on them for years . BTW, your air cleaner is way low on oil, and needs servicing. If you don’t have one, buy yourself a factory shop manual.Good luck.
I wish it were that simple Ibuzzard, everything for this truck has to be special ordered from the US. None of the parts stores in my area even list my old truck. Not even so much as a wheel cylinder was available.
Didn’t realize where you are! Airfare is cheap just now, bet you can fit lots in a suitcase!
Though not sure how long of a drive it is to the U.S., but perhaps a member would be willing to “store” parts for you till you or someone can drive across the border?
On the carburetor choke tower there is a number. That is the Holley list number. Go to the Holley web site and you can find out what it is supposed to be. Your vacuum connection from the distributor to the ported vacuum on the carburetor doesn't look quite right, you will get better performance if that was plugged and that line connected to full manifold vacuum. https://www.holley.com/support/carburetor/
On second look. Holley crap!!
Someone has removed your idle mixture screw and screwed your carb vacuum line into where the idle mixture screw is supposed to be. You sir are now in the market for a new metering block and some gaskets at the very least. No wonder it's rich and you may have filled your distributor vacuum can with fuel.
That is an oil bath filter. The bottom half holds about that much oil when full. 1 pt.
What you want to do though generally, is find out exactly what it is you have to work with. Get the shop manual and go through the Tune-Up section line by line. Start with a cylinder compression test. The vacuum test using a mechanic's gauge will also reveal much on the internal condition and overall tuning. Your engine has solid lifters, correct valve lash adjustment looms large with these.
On second look. Holley crap!!
Someone has removed your idle mixture screw and screwed your carb vacuum line into where the idle mixture screw is supposed to be. You sir are now in the market for a new metering block and some gaskets at the very least. No wonder it's rich and you may have filled your distributor vacuum can with fuel.
I was just about to say what you said about the vacuum line. Then i looked again and saw that it is hooked up to the timed vacuum. Yours looks like a 600 CFM. I run a 600 CFM Holley on my 292 but run a cable operated choke. You will need to google how to wire the electric choke up because you need power for it to work. I spent lots of time jetting mine properly. They said it would be jetted right from the box but wasn't. I also put in the Pertronix electronic ignition as stated above. . Then talk to someone at a performance shop and get all the info you can on jetting a holley and just keep at it to you get it right.
Also from what I can see your power brake booster is not hooked up to a vacuum source it is hooked directly to your crankcase vent on the valley cover. You need to hook to a vacuum source on the base of the carb. Right now you are just sending crankcase gases into you brake booster. That crankcase vent should also be hooked up to a vacuum source at the base of the carb with a PCV valve in the line since it is a 64. 63 would have used a draft tube at the front of the block on the left side. If your carb is a 600 CFM which I believe it is, there are two large vacuum sources on the base for booster and PCV. One in the front one in the rear. I am hooked to the rear one for my PCV and plugged the front. You can do it either way.
So I went out a first light to troubleshoot, no + wire found anywhere for the carb so I made one and hooked to ignition. Immediately the engine idles smooth, so I went for a spin and the difference in performance was night and day. It accelerated great and no hesitation or stumbling.
In my haste I left the air filter off, so I put it back on and went for another drive and while it was not as bad as before there is a significant difference in performance with the breather on. Also it is idling fast now with breather on.
I have no experience with this type of filter, how does one service them. Any good aftermarket options did a google search and can't find much on the subject.
As for the vacuum/fuel lines I am confident it is connected properly, I did what was suggested and went to the Holley website and found my carb model and went over it.
I look at the pictures more and ask are you sure your truck is a 64? In 64 the battery was on the firewall on the rightside unless it was a 4wd then it was in the floor on passenger side.
In regards to the oil bath filter: remove it and after disposing of the old oil, soak in kerosene. Clean everything with some kind of soap and water mixture, like Simple Green, then blow/wipe dry. There should be a line embossed on the housing indicating proper oil level. I use 30 wt. oil in mine.
Remember, F350 in this era is similar to F100/F250 4x4. They use this battery tray hooked to the outside of the passengers frame rail underneath the floorboards.
Remember, F350 in this era is similar to F100/F250 4x4. They use this battery tray hooked to the outside of the passengers frame rail underneath the floorboards.
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