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Engines getting pulled today. Going to check cyclinders thurs if not to bad itll get overhauled. probably going to do the Motorcraft oem with arp studs etc unless there's a better one to do. Any recommendations on air filter box.. also any other recommendations on parts I should swap out or add? such as gauges etc.. Thanks
For the air filter box, if you are going to keep it somewhat stockish, I would go with the Ford AIS intake.
Ford rebuild kit is best. You’ll need to know what bore you’ll need before ordering kit. Riffraff is a great source.
I think its worth delipping the bowl in the pistons. Most 7.3 failures I’ve seen were cracked pistons that started in the lips.
No reason for studs unless you are shooting for big power. (Over 2x stock HP)
The factory air box is fine if it’s not broken and gets assembled correctly. It filters and flows more than adequately for a stock truck. If it’s broken, I use the ‘6637’ filter a lot. Don’t get caught up in the hype of a ‘cold air intake’ - it’s strong koolaid, but makes ZERO difference.
The best gauges are ISSPRO EV2’s. I strongly recommend (4) gauge set-up - fuel pressure, EGT, boost and transmission temp.
I would also recommend Riffraff plenum inserts, CAC boots and upgraded clamps for plenums to ‘spider’.
Hopefully they’ll leave your AC system intact. No need to spend $$ on this. But, if they do open it up, install a 38639 orifice tube for COOOLDER AC. I also install a valve (3/4” PEX barbed valve is perfect for 5/8” heater hose) on the heater core SUPPLY for coldest AC.
Change upper radiator hose to the one that goes AROUND the serpentine belt if yours currently goes through it.
I would just put a Riff raff filter kit on the stock tube with a blue Donaldson. I've blown mine off with an air gun and re-used it like 3 times now lol. They do get pretty dirty sitting open in the engine bay if you live in a dusty area. The fancy $300-400 intake kits are a waste of money IMO.
I would just put a Riff raff filter kit on the stock tube with a blue Donaldson. I've blown mine off with an air gun and re-used it like 3 times now lol. They do get pretty dirty sitting open in the engine bay if you live in a dusty area. The fancy $300-400 intake kits are a waste of money IMO.
‘Blowing it out’ is dangerous and likely to compromise its ability to filter.
There is no need. I use the filter minder and just change it when needed. They last me up to 50k miles. I did a write up about it awhile back. Cutting the battery tray down, etc like pic above.
Its funny how people thonk the air under the hood is dirtier than the air outside. I guess it’s because you see accumulation of dirt on stuff in there??
If you do live on a dirt road or something, the Riffraff prefilter kit is a good idea. You can wash it periodically and get a lot more miles out of your filter.
Anything in a ‘box’ is pulling air through a tube/snorkel of some sort. This increases the velocity of air coming in and potentially draws dirt from farther away.
For a few $$$ more, I probably should just get the blue filter. But, I’ve been happy with the white ones for like 350k miles on my truck - so I just keep rolling with them.
Well, I'm not saying I recommend other people do it but I've sent in UOA's after blowing the filter off (from the outside with the inside part capped off with a shop paper towel and rubber band) and they came back fine. Filter still doing it's job. It wont get as clean as a brand new one but I can definitely tell when it starts to get dusted. I think they just want you to throw it away and buy a new one for obvious reasons but it isn't like reusable filters are a new idea or anything. For the record I am not a fan of K&N style oiled filters.
Ford rebuild kit is best. You’ll need to know what bore you’ll need before ordering kit. Riffraff is a great source.
I think its worth delipping the bowl in the pistons. Most 7.3 failures I’ve seen were cracked pistons that started in the lips.
No reason for studs unless you are shooting for big power. (Over 2x stock HP)
The factory air box is fine if it’s not broken and gets assembled correctly. It filters and flows more than adequately for a stock truck. If it’s broken, I use the ‘6637’ filter a lot. Don’t get caught up in the hype of a ‘cold air intake’ - it’s strong koolaid, but makes ZERO difference.
The best gauges are ISSPRO EV2’s. I strongly recommend (4) gauge set-up - fuel pressure, EGT, boost and transmission temp.
I would also recommend Riffraff plenum inserts, CAC boots and upgraded clamps for plenums to ‘spider’.
Send injectors to Bitterroot Diesel for testing as a minimum. Have them built into 160/0 single shots for more efficient engine.
PHP Hydra chip.
Weld in dipstick flange for oil pan.
Weld (tack) cam gear to cam.
Paint and powdercoat everything!! (I can stop doing this anytime I want.... )
Sure ill think of more stuff....
thanks for the recommendations. The injectors a friend is going to rebuild. He does tractor pulling & drag so has the equipment to do it properly(and for free outside of parts cost)
Yes. The big ford sticker specifically. But also the painted hpop reservoir, etc. I’ve pulled a few of those over the years. A few jasper engines and a couple from reviva. My cross section of rebuilt engines is skewed toward broken engines - but my faith in a typical ‘production’ rebuild is low.
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