My 1999 PSD's radiator just blew (it had 211,000 miles on it) and would like to upgrade to a higher capacity unit without having to do any mods. I looked at Mishimoto, but can't justify the cost although I still would if nothing else is available. The original radiator did a good job when towing my 12,000lb toybox through the Arizona mountains on a hot day with max temp of 215 degrees while climbing on i40 up the grade out of Ashfork to Williams doing 65 mpg while passing trucks. By the way, what is the max temp I should allow?

Anyway, I was pretty happy with the overall towing temps, but as always, am looking for improvements anytime replacing stock parts.

Thanks!

 

My son just put a autozone replacement in his 6.0l. Works fine. But he did find an Aluminum one at O Rieleys for $300.oo he said. They may have one for the 7.3 if you look it up. Let us know.

 

OK, thanks for the info.

Like your user name. Owned a Bonanza 35 and loved it.

 

You may want a later model that allows the Trans Lines to attach for additional cooling.

 

I have been happy with the all aluminum, all welded up, units I bought off Ebay for around $200 years ago in both our trucks. I looked into having the original rebuilt when it started leaking on the wife's Excursion around the 200k mark, but just didn't like the plastic end tanks being crimped on that seals with a large rubber o-ring. As I always do, when one of our trucks has an issue, I generally do the same to the other. So in this case, I just replaced the stock non leaking unit in my F350 with an all aluminum, all welded up unit. I also went ahead and converted both trucks from the original green coolant, to the newer Heavy Duty Diesel ELC extended life...good for 350k with no additives like you have to put into the green stuff every 20k or so...red coolant.

I would also upgrade the transmission cooler to the larger 6.0L style if you haven't already, given you will be right there for the radiator change. I also agree that you should hook up the OTW cooler in the bottom of the radiator to the transmission lines if not already done. I had to do this on my F350 and have a thread about what all you need if you do a search...or I can look up and post a link if interested. One last thing I did during this process was to replace both upper and lower radiator hoses. I went with the dual alternator upper hose given it does not go through the serpentine belt routing, thus allowing you to change the belt without having to remove the upper hose to do so.

 

OK, I like at least one of the welded alum radiators on eBay in the low $200's. I already have changed to the upper hose to the dual alternator version some time ago, but probably will change both top and bottom anyway. Also, plan on adding the 6.0 tranny cooler even though I already have a fan powered cooler unit that has done a good job, but still want the 6.0 cooler. I am also thinking of replacing the water pump. Can't remember if I replaced this one or it is original. Unfortunately, my original log book was accidentally thrown away some years ago when I had the truck detailed.

Not sure about the bottom OTW situation if this has already been done or not. If convenient, please post a link. While I have done and still do a lot of the maintenance on my truck, as I have gotten older, I am now having a certified independent mechanic do work I can't or don't want to do. Last year he did a great job of eliminating all the oil leaks. Says the engine is in great shape and should last a long time.

Thanks

 

Look under your truck and see if you have 2 hard lines connecting into either side of the bottom of the radiator. For the 6.0L transmission cooler you will need a 3/8" to 1/2" line conversion...not a big deal.

 

OK, thank you.

I still have not found what the aprox max operating water temp should be. Anybody have an idea?

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Row-Radia...MAAOSwSp5dU5ho

just read you saw this unit I bought one for one of the work trucks, we'll see how the quality is on this unit.

 

Is your truck an early 99 or later 99 model? Not sure on the maximum coolant temperature, but at the 215* you are fine. The 7.3L diesel is a very robust engine that can take the heat...unlike the newer aluminum power plants...

 

Wow, they're actually including the transmission line fittings...that was the hardest part to track down. The only thing I see though is they are straight, and the units I picked up had a 90* elbow in them that helped on clearance for the rubber hose.

 

Edit: The listing says it is not compatible with a 7.3.

Here is one that I have found and interested in: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Row-Alumi...2/323871054833
Does this one have the correct fittings?
My PSD is an early '99 model. Thanks for the temp info.

 

Yours being an early 99 probably will not have the OTW transmission cooler setup in the bottom of the radiator. Let me see if I can find the fittings I utilized. However, the one posted above by Z31Freakify has the fittings for the rubber lines...though they are straight and not 90* elbows...and is cheaper than the one you linked that doesn't have the rubber line fittings.

Also, with your truck being an early 99 I strongly suggest you do your research relative to production date codes if you are considering converting to the Heavy Duty ELC red coolant. The glue in the injector cups don't play friendly with that coolant...

 

I had not thought about converting to red, as I read from one manufacturer advised not to use red in their radiators. Don't remember which one, but I can find out if needed. Fortunately, my truck will not be used for towing for a few months, so I have lots of time to do this right. Especially with all the info you and others have posted on this forum.

 

I've had the HD ELC coolant in the wife's Excursion for probably 5-6 years now and my F350 for 3-4 years with no issues.

Here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ns-cooler.html is a thread with some good information about the radiator OTW transmission line routing with the newer larger 6.0L OTA oil cooler. See post #38 and #41 for information on the way I did it. It took me days to figure out that Dorman 624-224 part after trying several hydraulic places...and I picked it up at the local Advanced Auto from what I remember...