I get almost a 40 degree drop across that radiator at idle. That's with digital and immersion probe meters, not the dash gauge.

 

What say you? The controller I used is not your typical relay controlled on/off set up. It's a PWM controller just like on modern cars.

 

I'm not aginst electric fans but I don't have a huge aluminum radiator either.

3600 cmf fans are 17 in in diameter and you have room for 4 of them. I could fit 2 which is not enough even if I sprung for a aluminum radiator.

 

My wife likes to go rock hunting, and I wanted to be able to putt around off road in the desert heat with the AC on. The Bronco's original system had a big "super cooling" radiator with a clutch fan that made lots of noise and soaked up horse power. It got the job done at cruise but not so much at low speed. Also the 351M is hp challenged, so gaining back 8-10 hp from the parasitic drag of the mechanical fan is a big deal. You're talking about your X, right? It already has a huge AL radiator, but you would need to fabricate a shroud. Gotta have a shroud. My fans are 11". Spal makes them up to 1380 cfm each. I chose 900 to save money. They're pricey. Now I wouldn't change my X to electric fans because of the old saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it". But in your case you're looking for a solution. But then I wonder how the X would fair with a big Mishimoto radiator and 4 1100 cfm fans.

 

Anybody know what the CFM rating is for the mechanical fan on the 6.8, 7.3 and 6.0 PSD is?

 

I think I have cooling figured out.

If the 460 will not fit because fan hits radiator I will attempt to move engine, transmission, and transfer case back until I get a couple inches clearance and make a custom shroud. If wires and cables for controlling the transmission become too short to do the push back than the electric fans may be used. Wires really are not a huge deal I can lengthen them easy, well not the speed sensors for the transmission but hope I can get longer ones if needed. ....its the shifter cable that is my main concern. If I can get a longer cable and new driveshafts for less than the cost of fans that would be very useful. I HOPE ALL WIRES AND CABLES WILL ALLOW A 4" PUSH BACK.

For Fans:
I will have to get a 300-400 amp alternator to run them.
I have figured I can use 5 each 16" diameter 3000 cfm fans.

2 on engine side as pullers (6000 cfm), and 2 pushers where the intercooler would go (for a diesel) between radiator and AC condenser(6000 CFM). Each fan would have 1 corner of the radiator so none would be directly in front of another.

The last 3000 cfm fan will fit on back side of AC condenser, and will pull air thru it and send that air toward radiator. It will be wired to activate with the AC system.

Will try to stagger the fans so 1 comes on at 195 degrees, another at 200 degrees, and if it hits 205 the last 2 pusher fans come on. I have never seen over 196 degrees with my 185 tstat and that's when AC is on. All 4 will shut off when the motor hits 190 degrees. I think the 185 tstat is full open at 190 degrees. However my 552 CID motor my not like those high temps. I may have to go with a 175 degree stat and adjust the fans on and off temps. THats the other thing my tuner will need to do is adjust the engine warm temps from 180 to 170 degrees or so. That way the pcm will know when the 552 is warm.

All total would be 15,000 cfm and about $1800 worth of fans and controllers with another $300 for an alternator that could run them. OUCH!

The advantage of the way I am approaching this is I can just put the 2 pullers on at first and if I have a cooling issue I can install 1 pusher. If that is not enough I can install another pusher. If I still have issues I can install the AC fan.

If I still have heating issues I will look into a 100% aluminum radiator too. If these mods cannot keep the 552 CID motor cool than the OEM fan will not and I shouldn't have put such a big motor in my EX.

Hope I don't have go this route, I hate extra electrical stuff that can crap out.

However I doubt that the OEM fan is capable of 15000 CFM and I may just put a 3000 CFM fan on AC condenser even if I am able to push back the engine trans and T.C.

 

Ok then, here's what I've learned about powering multiple fans:
1. The fans will draw the most power on start up, once running they draw a fraction of start up power. For example my 4 fans can draw 170 amps on start, but once running the 4 of them draw less than 30 amps
2. You don't need the fans to come on full blast right away. The fans should slowly(soft start) and spin up to lighten the load on the electrical system. Just a couple of seconds.
3. You need a PWM type of controller that can vary the fans speed from start to full blast. On/off relays are not the way to go. A PWM controller will use heavy power transistors to do the job.
4. My controller has a AC function that senses the AC and brings the fans on. It also has a manual Dead Man switch that will allow remote control to bring the fans on if the controller fails.
Now I'm not doing a commercial. The only dog I have in this hunt is to help a fellow enthusiast, but checkout the Autocoolguy website for good examples. I don't think you will need a 300 or 400amp alt. Spend the money on your controller/s and quality fans. Checkout SPAL's website, they make some really powerful fans.

 

The measurement from rear of my V10 to the core of the radiator is 36.0".

The measurement from rear of my 552 to the tit on the front of the water pump is 31.25" add 4" for adapter I get 35.25". This leaves 3/4" between the water pump snout and my radiator. A steel 20" direct fan would stick out even with the water pump tit and would have a 3/4" distance to radiator. If I have to add a spacer to the fan to clear belts than my fan will be in the radiator.

Maybe a serpentine belt system will allow more clearance between fan and belt. I will see.

There appears to be about 1" of space between the radiator and the frame that it bolts to so I may be able to eek out another 1" of room for 37 inches. If I can do that and drill new holes for the transmission support bolt holes to push tranny back about 1" I think everything will work. That will give me 2.75" of space between my water pump and radiator core. I may be able to move entire transmission cross member back an inch or two and not have to get a new driveshaft or extend wires.

Can anyone say shoehorn?

 

Now for the big question!!!

Can you convert a E4OD into a 4R100?
Core E4OD https://www.ebay.com/itm/Core-Automa...kAAOSw6rVe~KNl

Since I have to rebuild the transmission anyhow, couldn't I just get a E4OD and add the correct linkage and install sensor holes in the E4OD case then just put all 4R100 parts in the E4OD?

This would save me 4 inches of space and lots of adapter dollars.

Mark, hope your still here to guide me.

 

Give me the 552 and I'll put it in the Bronco. You find a 7.3 Godzilla motor

 

I suppose anything is possible. The linkage is the same. The 4R100 internals will work fine in an E4OD case. If you can get the sensors in the proper place with the proper spacing to the rotating parts it should work. A really, really, good welder and machinist would be needed, along with a drawing of where the bosses need to be.

 

Maybe I missed it somewhere but would "pusher" electric fans still allow for an upgraded trans cooler? The stock gasser cooler is adequate (IMO) only for daily driver duties.

 

THANK YOU Mark.....
Ideas are flying around in my head so fast now.

 

Mocked up my coil on plugs today.
The bolt holes on OEM cops were a hair small for the 1/4-20 blots that hold valve cover on so I had to drill them out a hair.

 

I'll bet somewhere hidden in a dark corner of ford engineering there is a 460 with 5.4 electronics on it. Tunnel ram manifold and injection.