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Joined: May 2020
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From: Phoenix
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Hello, I'm new to the forum and new to owning a 1956 f100. 272, three on the tree. I bought the truck knowing there was some engine problems. When I got it, it was smoking excessively. I tried some marvel mystery oil and was hoping I had a stuck ring. When that didn't work, I removed the valve covers and found three push rods and came loose. Upon closer examination, I found none of them bent. When I went to try to put them back down against the lifters, they all dropped down too far to make contact with the rocker arms. Just curious, am I looking at a total rebuild here and should I consider a more modern drive train? Any help would be appreciated. Norm
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2019
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Hi Norm,
Welcome to the forum! This will be a great resource for you to keep your truck running great over the years. The Y blocks are good motors when fresh. Did the previous owner say if they new of any work done to it? A rebuild of a stock motor usually isn't too expensive if you have a good local machine shop. Where are you located? It would be great to see some pics of your truck.
Cheers, Rick
Welcome to the forum! This will be a great resource for you to keep your truck running great over the years. The Y blocks are good motors when fresh. Did the previous owner say if they new of any work done to it? A rebuild of a stock motor usually isn't too expensive if you have a good local machine shop. Where are you located? It would be great to see some pics of your truck.
Cheers, Rick
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Joined: May 2018
Posts: 187
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From: God's Country (Oklahoma)
Welcome here! There is a wealth of knowledge in this group, so you are at the right place. I am no Y block expert, but your push-rod issue seems to be a mechanical issue, such as a worn lifters and/or cam. If it is original engine, it may need to be torn down and inspected.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2016
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If it were mine, I'd rebuild the original motor and trans (as needed). Today, there are some mild performance parts for it which will give it a little more power and still be a good reliable driver. I always wish my 1956 had the original 272 and Fordomatic trans is came with. I remember the original motor and trans being removed and hauled to a wrecking yard back in the late 1970's. Both still worked fine. But the plan was to install a 390 and auto trans. Back then, finding an original truck of this era wasn't so difficult. So keeping one original wasn't very critical or important. Another thing to keep in mind, if you change the motor to something modern, be prepared to sort the dozens of other things that get affected by doing so.
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 766
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From: south Fl.
I Would pull the intake and see where the lifters went, chances are if someone drove it like that the lifters popped out of the holes and are lying in the valley. Just a guess but i think it's possible.
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Joined: May 2020
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From: Phoenix
Thanks for the responses. I didn't even think about the lifters coming out and being in the valley. Maybe a stuck valve was the original culprit. The truck sat for 10 years according to the last owner. I'll let you know what I find underneath the valley plate. I really want to keep this engine if possible since I have all of the original documentation on the truck.
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Fleet Owner
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From: NM
Before you pull the manifold and valley cover, do you have access to a borescope? I would think most of them would fit down the pushrod hole and you could see the lifters.
Might also be worth pulling a "good" pushrod from another valve and see if the length is the same as the 3 that are loose. Maybe the pushrods on the 3 valves did get bent and someone threw some random pushrods at them?
Might also be worth pulling a "good" pushrod from another valve and see if the length is the same as the 3 that are loose. Maybe the pushrods on the 3 valves did get bent and someone threw some random pushrods at them?
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I'm not a Y-block expert, but I think those use a "Mushroom Lifter" They are installed from the bottom with the block upside down and before the cam is installed. The larger diameter end rides on the cam lobe. So, they cannot pop out into the valley. You might have bent pushrods from them falling out either during a valve adjustment or because the adjustment got severely loose. Some old school mechanics like to adjust valves with the engine idling. I've seen push rods fall out when doing it that way on mechanical cams.
As far as smoke, I'd get good pushrods installed, adjust the valves, then do a compression test and maybe a cylinder leakage test to get an idea of the integrity of the motor.
As far as smoke, I'd get good pushrods installed, adjust the valves, then do a compression test and maybe a cylinder leakage test to get an idea of the integrity of the motor.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 9,735
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From: Wentzville, MO
Welcome to FTE. 
As far as your Y Block lifter issue a Y Blocks lifters insert from the bottom end of the block. There’s a old tool to remove them without complete disassembly but I’ve only seen the tool in pictures. I’d suggest you purchase a good Y Block book if your going to disassemble it. Here’s a couple:
https://play.google.com/store/books/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
https://www.alibris.com/search/books...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
I too had a 56 with the 272 & 3 on the tree. I loved it around town but with the 3.92 rear end it wasn’t fun to drive at interstate speeds. I changed to a C-4 and a 9” rear end with taller gears for cruising. I will say the addition of a 4 barrel intake (EGZ -9425-B) and carb (Holley 390 CFM) will really wake the ole truck up once you’ve solved your lifter issue.
As far as your Y Block lifter issue a Y Blocks lifters insert from the bottom end of the block. There’s a old tool to remove them without complete disassembly but I’ve only seen the tool in pictures. I’d suggest you purchase a good Y Block book if your going to disassemble it. Here’s a couple:
https://play.google.com/store/books/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
https://www.alibris.com/search/books...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
I too had a 56 with the 272 & 3 on the tree. I loved it around town but with the 3.92 rear end it wasn’t fun to drive at interstate speeds. I changed to a C-4 and a 9” rear end with taller gears for cruising. I will say the addition of a 4 barrel intake (EGZ -9425-B) and carb (Holley 390 CFM) will really wake the ole truck up once you’ve solved your lifter issue.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2003
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The lifters can't go anywhere as stated. I'd pull the rocker assembly and all push rods on that bank and ensure the rods are all straight and the same length. If the rockers and shaft are worn, then rebuilt assemblies are available. Bear in mind, the one real design weakness of the Y is that the rocker arm assemblies receive oil only from the center cam bearing through a passage in the block and head then to the rockers via the center rocker stand. Oil delivery can be compromised due to a worn cam bearing or simply sludge in the passages. If the rockers and areas under the valve cover look dry with little oil, then this may be an issue on yours. There are ways to mitigate this, but check yours out before we go on about that.
My '56 has a 292 with a 3 speed on the column with a 3:73 axle. It's fine in town and on the highway. I did put a high torque starter, a 3 wire gm alternator, an MSD distributor and an Edelbrock 500 4 barrel on it. Super reliable now.
My '56 has a 292 with a 3 speed on the column with a 3:73 axle. It's fine in town and on the highway. I did put a high torque starter, a 3 wire gm alternator, an MSD distributor and an Edelbrock 500 4 barrel on it. Super reliable now.
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New User
Joined: May 2020
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From: Phoenix
Progress
Thanks everyone for all of the responses. I've learned a lot from everyone about these old Y-blocks. I've made some real progress here. First, I determined there were three stuck valves. I was able to retrieve the three push rods and low and behold they were all bent. I was able to free up the stuck valves by by tapping the end with a hammer. Next, I straightened out the push rods. I was then able to see down into the holes and determined that all of the lifters were still in place. Reinstalled push rods, adjusted valve lash and now I have an engine running on all cylinders. Very little spoke as well. Thank goodness I didn't have to dismantle everything at this point. It's too hot here in AZ right now. Future plans are to go with a 4 barrel intake and electronic ignition like you said. My other question is; does anyone know what type of headers would work on this engine for clearance sake? Seems like a lot in the way on the driver's side? Also, I would like to add a double reservoir master cylinder. Any suggestions? Thanks guys for the help!!
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 687
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Good job on gettig it running.How is the oil deleivery looking in that upper cyliner aea to you?
As far as exhaust goes, these are what you want. https://www.ebay.com/itm/383482948045
Well, maybe not these exact ones- you'd have to do your own homework,but this is the idea.
I got lucky when I rebuilt my Y and found a pair.
As far as exhaust goes, these are what you want. https://www.ebay.com/itm/383482948045
Well, maybe not these exact ones- you'd have to do your own homework,but this is the idea.
I got lucky when I rebuilt my Y and found a pair.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 9,735
Likes: 823
From: Wentzville, MO
Couple of headers made for y block equipped trucks. Reds Headers and Sanderson come to mind first but there are others. Old timers use to use the Ram Horn exhaust manifolds off the Big Job trucks and maybe busses. They are now reproduced and Speedway and Mummert sell them. Just be sure to get headers for a F-100, Tbird headers wouldn’t work on my truck. If you think you may change to power steering this is something that needs to be equated into your purchase.
Before you add a double reservoir master you need to decide if you’re going to keep the drum/drum setup or if you are going to add front or 4 wheel disk brakes. Also, you need to decide if your going to have power brakes. You can replace the stuff piece by piece but it’s better to select a brake system designed to work together. Oh yea and it’ll be cheaper in the long run.
Just a suggestion: Drive it, enjoy it and fix’s the things that bug YOU the most. A lotta guys add stuff just because and isn’t really necessary to enjoy your ride.
Before you add a double reservoir master you need to decide if you’re going to keep the drum/drum setup or if you are going to add front or 4 wheel disk brakes. Also, you need to decide if your going to have power brakes. You can replace the stuff piece by piece but it’s better to select a brake system designed to work together. Oh yea and it’ll be cheaper in the long run.
Just a suggestion: Drive it, enjoy it and fix’s the things that bug YOU the most. A lotta guys add stuff just because and isn’t really necessary to enjoy your ride.