Occasional P0198 CEL
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Tuned
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Occasional P0198 CEL
Hello, SO this is the Engine oil temp sensor high out put.
I think the OEM Part Number is
For example:
Not sure that's real OEM..
Thanks for your direction..
Jeff
I think the OEM Part Number is
OEM 3F1Z-12A648-A
Does anyone have a link that I can trust. I came across a part on EBAY that was 6 bucks, and it only said interchangeable to that part that I just listed.. I think I should be spending anywhere from 15-28 for an OEM part..For example:
Not sure that's real OEM..
Thanks for your direction..
Jeff
Got Data?
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,249
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From: Lake Stevens, WA
Recommend Riffraff for the Motorcraft OEM sensor
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/engin...sor-eot-99-03/
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/engin...sor-eot-99-03/
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Tuned
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Thank you Much BWST, That part looks legit about to have one ordered right now. I think it will fix my problem. I was happy to see on certain Internet sites, that
a bad EOT can cause a slight miss at low idle. I thought maybe My CPS was going bad, but apparently that coincides with this EOT. With the P0198 code that has to be it..
Also I bought the truck two years ago. It run rough when cold. But then when it warms up, it's just tight and alive. I assumed that was just the older style diesel trucks, apparently that can be this EOT as well..
Thanks again for the part..
Jeff
a bad EOT can cause a slight miss at low idle. I thought maybe My CPS was going bad, but apparently that coincides with this EOT. With the P0198 code that has to be it..
Also I bought the truck two years ago. It run rough when cold. But then when it warms up, it's just tight and alive. I assumed that was just the older style diesel trucks, apparently that can be this EOT as well..
Thanks again for the part..
Jeff
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Tuned
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Thanks aaw . Hoping that's not the case.. but more than likely is.. I've noticed the WTS light seems like it's staying on longer than usual.. I'm fact I'd bet that's the likely culprit if the rough running..
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Tuned
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Do you recommend doing anything else other than just the glow plugs during that job? You have a part number by any chance.. I google 2003 f350 7.3 and come up with a ton of different glow plugs.. 8 running for about 60 bucks.. but I want to get the right oem. Part.. Not sure if these things are like injectors or not.. is a glow plug a glow plug...I don't know..
Thanks for the rec
Got Data?
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,249
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From: Lake Stevens, WA
Recommend starting with checking the GPR. Easiest to replace and is often the only issue with the glow plug system. Riffraff has the OEM relay, but there is a cheaper alternative you can source on amazon that has been recommended by KubotaOrange76 and SkyskiJason : Trombetta 684-1241-212. I've got one coming myself.
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Got Data?
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,249
Likes: 1,381
From: Lake Stevens, WA
If you do decide to get glow plugs, stick with OEM. Motorcraft F4TZ12A342BA. https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/glowplugs-zd-11-94-03/
A good how-to from @F350-6 , including what else to check under the valve covers here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...low-plugs.html
A good how-to from @F350-6 , including what else to check under the valve covers here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...low-plugs.html
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2018
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Recommend starting with checking the GPR. Easiest to replace and is often the only issue with the glow plug system. Riffraff has the OEM relay, but there is a cheaper alternative you can source on amazon that has been recommended by KubotaOrange76 and SkyskiJason : Trombetta 684-1241-212. I've got one coming myself.
thanks again bwst, when checking the gpr, I'm only looking for voltage? Is that correct. I have one of these gprs coming. Looks like its about a 3rd of the cost of oem, for 18, I'll just change it out.
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Tuned
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Bwst, found some videos. No need to respond to gpr check. I'll just check voltage on the always hot post and then turn the ignition on and make sure the other post is indicating similar voltage.
Gonna replace the gpr anyway..
Gonna replace the gpr anyway..
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Tuned
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Bwst, found some videos. No need to respond to gpr check. I'll just check voltage on the always hot post and then turn the ignition on and make sure the other post is indicating similar voltage.
Gonna replace the gpr anyway..
Gonna replace the gpr anyway..
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Tuned
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Just an update for anyone that searches this subject. Changed the EOT with the OEM factory part. And wow! It runs was smoother even at idle. It runs like it did before when it was hot and warmed up even after 60 seconds. Very Pleased. Also the occasional miss in the idle is gone. One thing to add that i learned which should be common sense. is when you swap out the EOT, do it quickly, it's obviously in an oil source, so It leaked on me while I was getting the other sensor. I think I lost about a quarter quart into my engine bay and drive way...
Cargo Master
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Just an update for anyone that searches this subject. Changed the EOT with the OEM factory part. And wow! It runs was smoother even at idle. It runs like it did before when it was hot and warmed up even after 60 seconds. Very Pleased. Also the occasional miss in the idle is gone. One thing to add that i learned which should be common sense. is when you swap out the EOT, do it quickly, it's obviously in an oil source, so It leaked on me while I was getting the other sensor. I think I lost about a quarter quart into my engine bay and drive way...
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Tuned
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