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Hello Power Stroke People. Hope everybody's AC is working well. Don't know about where y'all are, but here in Oklahoma it's hotter that two chicks making out. So my issue I'm having is a few weeks ago I started noticing a power loss pulling hills and sluggish acceleration on a trip. When I got home I ran the codes with my AE and got low injector pressure and low boost. So I David and oil change and a new fuel filter since it has been a little while. No help but heck it needed done anyways. So I went looking for oil leaks and found one of the high pressure oil lines leaking between the fitting and hose. It's not terrible but definitely wet and some oil pulling in the valley. I got the oil line upgrade kit with the crossover and plan to install them tomorrow. Also going to pull the IPR valve for a cleaning and new O-rings. My questions are are there any tips or tricks I should be aware of for installing the new lines and any other oil system components I should check while I'm doing the job.
They are Eaton Weathershield hoses with JIC ends and new VITON o-rings.
I'll do some more research on the cross over line. What I found so far has been a little mixed but I was liking the idea of quieting the injectors some. I can always do that later if I decide. It doesn't look to be to terrible.
The IPR I've done before so no worries on it. Figured a clean up and inspection wouldn't hurt while I was in there. Just need to look up the YouTube video again.
I was curious to see where everyone stood on removing the plastic plungers and springs under the pump fittings.
Funny you mentioned the springs and discs in the HPOP fittings... You can accomplish the exact same result as the HPx provides by removing those springs and discs. Many have done this including me. All (I am pretty sure) of the aftermarket HPOP builders like CNC, Diesel Site, Terminator, etc... have the springs and discs removed.
Sounds like you are on the right track with the JIC fittings.
Any other questions or concerns because it sounds like you are well on your way to successfully completing a repair and maintenance task.
I was mainly curious about the crossover line and the spring and disc removal. Also wanted to make sure there weren't any little details to watch out for while doing the job. I know all too well how quickly a seemingly simple job can go sideways and turn into Gilligan's nightmare.
Ok I will bite...What does removing the springs and disks in the HPOP lines do. And is it as simple as just taking them out and buttoning it all back up or are there new o-rings etc...to re-install after springs and disks are removed.
I'm not 100% sure but I think I read somewhere that they're a check valve to prevent backflow through the pump. Supposed to help with start up time by keeping the lines primed, but supposedly that's a non-issue because the reservoir sits higher then the oil lines. Again not 100% on that
Removing the check valves (springs with discs on top of them) accomplishes the same thing as installing an HPx or oil crossover. It "equalizes" the oil pressure because the oil passages to each head from each hose are now connected. This has little to no effect on anything within the engine, but if you are in there anyway and the HPOP hose fittings are coming off, it is a good idea to accomplish.
The fittings on the hose side of the HPOP must come out before the check valves are removed. So, if you are simply looking to remove the check valves, it is not worth the effort. If you are in there doing other work and are looking to remove the check valves, why not go ahead and do that.
Riffraff has a "non-check valve" fitting available for purchase if you were replacing these fittings anyway and removing the check valves.
People that install the CNC fittings or the new Riffraff JIC fittings do not need the fitting I linked above.
Clear as mud?
udsuth78 is right about the check valves. They are there to prevent back flow or drainage of oil from the hoses. Although, removing the check valves is a well known "modification" that has been taking place for a long, long time. When I removed my check valves, I noticed no (zero) time difference between start ups.
I changed my HPOP lines about a week ago now and the HPOP line removal tool came in handy. You don’t have to remove the line from the STC fitting before unscrewing the fitting from the head or pump but it makes it somewhat easier. The fittings at the pump are tough to get to so be patient.
Removing the fuel bowl would free up a lot of space but if it’s not leaking don’t mess with it.
I just made a hose release tool out of an old circular saw wrench and it works great. The angle on it is beneficial at getting to the hoses on the pump. Remember, the torque on the fittings into the pump are very low (I won't try to guess it because I'm not 100% sure and it is critical) and use loctite green to lock them into place. Don't laugh 'cause the cut's not perfect, it was hanging around the garage, didn't cost anything and it works like a charm.
Oh, and after I made the cuts with the Dremel I ground the tip down so it slides into the fitting easier.
Well I got the lines and fittings changed out and so far no leaks. Still getting a P1211 code while driving though. I'm trying to diagnose it now. After getting it back together and starting it up I hooked up my AE and went for a drive watching the icp#, duty cycle, and voltage. What i started noticing was at higher speeds when I'd start to pull a hill the #, dc, v would start to climb then as more load was called for the pressure would stall between 1400-1800, the dc would climb up to 55-65, and v start to fall down to 1.6-1.8ish. If I let out of it # would spike 3000+, dc drop, and v jump to 3+. I'm suspecting the IPR and I have a good spare i'm going to swap in to rule it out but my luck with these hpo systems I'm not holding my breath. Just waiting for the engine to cool down enough to pull the IPR and thought I'd check with y'all for other diagnostics. I did check the tin nut, the oil is only 3-4 week old, fuel filter changed 2 weeks ago, injector o-rings replaced less than a year, injectors changer maybe 2 years. Let me know what you think. Thank you
Well I got the IPR pulled and found the little split ring under the small o-ring was kind of bunged up so I put a new set on my spare IPR and installed it. Took it for a 20 min drive and it started to get better. Hopping it's still working some air out because my duty cycle numbers are still on the high side plus it kept throwing the P1211. On the plus side throttle response seems better and so does the get up. I'll hook up the AE again in the morning when I head out to see if it cleans up any more.
