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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Rain gutter rust repair?

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Old Jan 9, 2016 | 04:04 PM
  #1  
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Rain gutter rust repair?

Hi guys,

I'm back with a few more questions regarding a truck I've found. I test drove this truck today and it was quite clean except for the rust in the photos. Body was straight and mostly rust free. The owner claims they are the second owner who bought from the original owner in 2007. I'd like to know just how difficult this rust is to repair. It has rusted through completely on the passenger side. Any help is appreciated.

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Old Jan 9, 2016 | 04:36 PM
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I would suspect that truck has serious rust in other areas as well as what you show there. Look at the bottom end of that A pillar where the floor of the cab connects. Roll the mat or carpet back and look closely.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2016 | 05:17 PM
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I was worried about that as well but I looked and there really wasn't anything other than mild surface rust. Since the truck is so clean otherwise that's why I'm asking about the roof repair.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2016 | 07:45 PM
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The short answer to your question is - can you weld? If you can't it will be expensive to repair by a shop. My roof was rusted through on three sides and it took quite a bit of time to cut, clean, de-rust, shape, and weld. If you want a series of photos I made of the process send me your email address by private message.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2016 | 08:09 PM
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I just posted 6 photos in my photo gallery which may help you see the process.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2016 | 08:19 PM
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I think a cab replacement would be cheaper.
Eric
 
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Old Jan 9, 2016 | 08:31 PM
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Is there such thing as an aftermarket cab or do I need to find a donor?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2016 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by P38fighter
I just posted 6 photos in my photo gallery which may help you see the process.

Thank you. When I'm not on my phone I'll take a look.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2016 | 08:40 AM
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There are lots of cabs available in the southwest desert. Yes, you have to find it and ship it, but it can be cheaper than fabrication and welding. I found a complete rust-free shorty in LA and had it shipped to Vancouver to avoid doing the rust repair I did on the previous '66. That truck was not nearly as bad as yours but still needed a lot of expensive work.
Eric
 
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Old Jan 10, 2016 | 10:41 AM
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I noticed in those first pics that you posted that there was duct tape over the areas above the drip gutters. It looks like you live in CA so I'm not sure why you chose to buy a truck with that rust when there are so many rust-free examples in your area. Well, at least if you are after a donor cab you can now look for one in your area without rust. ...............



If you are thinking repair, you might want to get that area bead blasted first to determine what you are really dealing with. Areas that appear sound before blasting can be pretty bad afterward. I can see there is a good build-up in the front drip rail of POR or something like that. The problem that can occur in warm climates is humidity actually forms on the inside of the cab and rusts it from the inside out so POR or sealer on the outside isn't going to help much. The constant cycling from hot to cold causes the rust to get a good start and it's above the headliner so none the wiser that the problem is forming.

Ford did make replacement sheet metal pieces for those areas as follows. Green Sales Company has 1 (one) of the third item in stock.


C1TB-8151724-A | RearCounter.com | 1 found at 1 seller


<table width="721" style="width: 541pt; border-collapse: collapse;" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"><tbody><tr height="20" style="height: 15pt;"><td width="496" height="20" style="border: 0px black; border-image: none; width: 372pt; height: 15pt; background-color: rgb(255, 192, 0);">RH Roof Side Rail Assembly - includes drip moulding</td><td width="225" style="border: 0px black; border-image: none; width: 169pt; background-color: rgb(255, 192, 0);">C1TZ-81513A52-B</td></tr><tr height="20" style="height: 15pt;"><td height="20" style="border: 0px black; border-image: none; height: 15pt; background-color: rgb(255, 192, 0);">LH Roof Side Rail Assembly - includes drip moulding</td><td style="border: 0px black; border-image: none; background-color: rgb(255, 192, 0);">C1TZ-81513A53-B</td></tr><tr height="20" style="height: 15pt;"><td height="20" style="border: 0px black; border-image: none; height: 15pt; background-color: rgb(255, 192, 0);"></td><td style="border: 0px black; border-image: none; background-color: rgb(255, 192, 0);"></td></tr><tr height="20" style="height: 15pt;"><td height="20" style="border: 0px black; border-image: none; height: 15pt; background-color: rgb(255, 192, 0);">Roof Drip Front Moulding


</td><td style="border: 0px black; border-image: none; background-color: rgb(255, 192, 0);">C1TB-8151724-A


</td></tr></tbody></table>
 
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Old Jan 10, 2016 | 11:36 AM
  #11  
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...I'm with TA, it's no bargain if you're going to have to find a new, solid cab to go with it or, at minimum, a new roof. Having the benefit of living in California, you should be able to find a rust-free example. Don't be in a hurry, there's a lot of them around.
 
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