Any way to differentiate torn o-rings and a bad hpop?
#1
Any way to differentiate torn o-rings and a bad hpop?
I just bought a truck, 7 hours away. Long haul for my old Spartacus. More info in this thread!
So the reason I got it for real cheap is it wasn't running. At least it wouldn't run after getting nice and warm. The guy I bought it from threw an HPOP, ICP, IPR, CPS at it and nothing fixed it. He gave up and sold it for $1k more than he bought it for.
I did some troubleshooting, made sure the IPR, ICP and HPOP were working... They sure seemed like it. Cold, there was like ~500psi of oil pressure, enough to keep it running. Cranking, only ~100psi.
Anyway, I assumed there was no issue with those new parts. So I thought, high pressure oil leak --> injector o-rings!
A couple weeks later, I got the time and the tools to pull them babies out. And yup, torn / tearing o-rings:
Didn't take pics of the other side... Basically the same thing, one fully torn and three others tearing.
So, I'm gonna get some Alliant Power o-rings (AP0001), I think that's the OEM ones. Don't want no chinese Doorman or anything like that. That should fix the issue.
Now onto my main questions (sorry it took so long...):
Was there any way I could have known it was injector o-rings? Any tips, or signs that it was that and not the HPOP? Because in the end, if I see low-ish oil pressure, I first assume ICP, then IPR, then HPOP. Or do you just need to check the o-rings before throwing an HPOP at it? By the way, I did run a contribution test and it passed, no codes.
Thanks for taking the time. And make sure you check your o-rings ($60 for a kit on RiffRaff) before throwing a $1000 HPOP at it!
Calvin
So the reason I got it for real cheap is it wasn't running. At least it wouldn't run after getting nice and warm. The guy I bought it from threw an HPOP, ICP, IPR, CPS at it and nothing fixed it. He gave up and sold it for $1k more than he bought it for.
I did some troubleshooting, made sure the IPR, ICP and HPOP were working... They sure seemed like it. Cold, there was like ~500psi of oil pressure, enough to keep it running. Cranking, only ~100psi.
Anyway, I assumed there was no issue with those new parts. So I thought, high pressure oil leak --> injector o-rings!
A couple weeks later, I got the time and the tools to pull them babies out. And yup, torn / tearing o-rings:
Didn't take pics of the other side... Basically the same thing, one fully torn and three others tearing.
So, I'm gonna get some Alliant Power o-rings (AP0001), I think that's the OEM ones. Don't want no chinese Doorman or anything like that. That should fix the issue.
Now onto my main questions (sorry it took so long...):
Was there any way I could have known it was injector o-rings? Any tips, or signs that it was that and not the HPOP? Because in the end, if I see low-ish oil pressure, I first assume ICP, then IPR, then HPOP. Or do you just need to check the o-rings before throwing an HPOP at it? By the way, I did run a contribution test and it passed, no codes.
Thanks for taking the time. And make sure you check your o-rings ($60 for a kit on RiffRaff) before throwing a $1000 HPOP at it!
Calvin
#2
Also, this worked to suck the oil out of the combustion chambers:
Syringe, the wire tie is to keep the hose from leaking, and at the end of the hose I had a piece of copper wire (like the stuff they put in houses) to keep the hose straight and fit it in the hole. I spent like 30 mins trying to put that hose in the hole without, until @RenoHuskerDu gave me that tip. Worked pretty good!
The IP3000 (injector puller 3000), or if you want the real part number, Gearwrench #82208. After pulling 5 injectors out I found out you can fit it under the rocker, diagonally, and they pull out real easy!
Also, does anyone have any idea what this thing is? It's hardlined into a fuel line... No wires going to it, no easy way to take it out... The sticker is too faded to read. The truck has been e-fueled.
Syringe, the wire tie is to keep the hose from leaking, and at the end of the hose I had a piece of copper wire (like the stuff they put in houses) to keep the hose straight and fit it in the hole. I spent like 30 mins trying to put that hose in the hole without, until @RenoHuskerDu gave me that tip. Worked pretty good!
The IP3000 (injector puller 3000), or if you want the real part number, Gearwrench #82208. After pulling 5 injectors out I found out you can fit it under the rocker, diagonally, and they pull out real easy!
Also, does anyone have any idea what this thing is? It's hardlined into a fuel line... No wires going to it, no easy way to take it out... The sticker is too faded to read. The truck has been e-fueled.
#3
Had you pulled valve cover when you cranked you would have seen the oil bubbling at the base of the injector.
good call tho. I think you are on the right track.
You may want to pull the glow plugs and crank it over before starting up. Covers need be on and have a couple bolts in them. It's a mess otherwise.
good call tho. I think you are on the right track.
You may want to pull the glow plugs and crank it over before starting up. Covers need be on and have a couple bolts in them. It's a mess otherwise.
#4
I did the trick where you pull the rearmost injector out first, so the oil only goes into that cylinder. There was a little oil in the three others, but not much.
I actually did pull a couple glow plugs and there was a bunch of metal sparkles around the head! Not much anywhere else, but right there, a whole lot. Nothing on the dipstick, so I hope it's just left over from some previous incident.
I actually did pull a couple glow plugs and there was a bunch of metal sparkles around the head! Not much anywhere else, but right there, a whole lot. Nothing on the dipstick, so I hope it's just left over from some previous incident.
#5
Injectors are in! Got the o-rings today and slipped them on.
And then I popped the injectors back in. Don't forget to grease them up or you may tear one of them brand new o-rings.
Buzz test passed! I'll bolt the VCs on tomorrow night, hopefully have it running by then! Otherwise on Thursday.
And then I popped the injectors back in. Don't forget to grease them up or you may tear one of them brand new o-rings.
Buzz test passed! I'll bolt the VCs on tomorrow night, hopefully have it running by then! Otherwise on Thursday.
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