My 2000 7.3 has been giving me a no start condition.

ICP was leaking oil so changed it out.

Also bought a seal kit for the IPR and did that.

Pulled the valve covers and checked the clearance on my injectors. They had very little clearance so installed a shim kit and also put in new o-rings.

Did the pre-start procedure and the truck fired up and sounded great. Reinstalled the valve covers and the air breather, etc and the truck would not start again.

Prior to the no start it was intermittent and that lead me to check the wiring. So far haven’t found anything but a test of the IDM wiring showed high ohm readings at about 3.6 for all readings taken (found a test procedure online that included three tests).

First question is: Would the high ohm readings be caused by a condition that could have fried my IDM?

Second question: Should I start pulling wiring looms off and looking for bad wiring from the IDM connections to their terminating point?

Also, the previous owner jury rigged a connection for air bags so I removed the wiring.

Had a remote start installed way back that has since failed. I had it removed by someone local (college instructor - heavy duty mechanics) and had the dealership reconnect the ignition wiring. Truck started since then when I did the injectors. However, during my attempts to find an issue with the no start I noticed a mess of wires that are not connected. Some were leftovers from the remote start and the air bags, but some look like part of the original harness that were cut and not connected. Not sure when those were cut and if they are required. Once the truck runs I will drive it to the city and have an automotive wiring shop go through everything.

For now I’m just working on getting this truck started so that I can hear that sweet diesel sound .... and tow my skid steer around when I need to haul it.

Thanks.

 

Do a buzz test on the injectors. If you don't get a buzz noise for the injectors but do have tachometer movement for each injector test, then the PCM is sending signal to the IDM to fire the injectors, but there is a problem with either the IDM or the signaling from the IDM to the injectors.

 

Generally speaking, high resistance of injector coils will not kill the IDM. A short in any of the Ground or Shield circuits will though. These are called Test 2 and Test 3 in the chart below.


As for the factory wires that are cut and capped, these are the "Customer Access" wires built into the harness from the factory.

 

i will do the buzz test and post my results.

thanks for the info!

passed test two and three - thought I posted that - my bad!

thanks for the wiring info - I feel a bit better.

 

Hi fellas

Didn’t get to do the buzz test yesterday.

I was working on my driveway and the aggregate guy didn’t deliver until almost 4 pm, then I had to take a break to pick up my oldest - she sprained her ankle at the skate park.

Six hours south of my truck right now - I’m the city for my last physio appointment.

if it’s not raining tomorrow after work I’ll do the buzz test and report my results.

Thanks tons for the responses so far. I’ve been tracking problems and know that I am close to resolving everything. Now that I’m on to the electrical issues I’m in untested waters so really appreciate your help!

 

I’m currently undergoing the exact procedures.

I don't have a scan took to do a buz test. However if the OHMS are reading to high at the IDM plug side then can I bench test the injectors? What should a stand alone injector show for resistance? Within this test we are focused on three key factors, correct me if I’m wrong.

continuity in Circuit
short to ground
injector coil resistance.

 

Good morning

here are my results

Injector buzz test passed successfully.

KOEO test codes retrieved:

P1280
P0122
P0472
P0237
P0000 9 time between sensor transitions.

Where do I go from here?

Thanks!

 

Instead of pulling the injectors out, just test them in at the UVCH or at the injector connectors. Pulling the injectors means you will need to replace o-rings, pump leaked fuel and oil out of the cylinders, retorque the hold down bolts, etc etc. Injector coils should be between 2.8-3.6 ohms. You are correct in your assessment of factors.

 

@cjcocn I'll get you a detailed reply later. I have to go to work now.

 

P1280
Condition: ICP circuit out of range low.
Probable Cause: Open/grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

P0122
Condition: Accelerator pedal sensor circuit low input.
Probable Cause: Grounded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

P0472
Condition: Exhaust back pressure sensor circuit low input.
Probable Cause: Open/grunded circuit, biased sensor, PCM.

P0237
Condition: Turbo boost sensor A circuit low input.
Probable Cause: Circuit open, short to ground, MAP sensor.

The combination of all the codes above tells me your wire harness has wires worn/chewed through somewhere. The most common wear point is at the 42-pin connector over the driver side valve cover. Check the underside of the harness to see if it is worn through. has this truck sat outside for awhile? You may have had mice chewing on wires. Check for worn/chewed/broken wires first and then we'll dive deeper if we have to.

P0000
It just means a non-factory scanner to clear codes. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ode-p0000.html.

 

When I saw the codes and their descriptions I wondered if they all pointed to a certain condition, but had no idea what to do from there or where the indication led to lol.

I sure appreciate the help and will check my wiring harness over.

The underside of the 42 pin harness is good. I pulled back the loom and checked the wires. If I end up pulling the part of the harness that’s over the engine valley I’ll pull all loom off and check everything over including the 42 pin wiring again.

I plan on checking everything from the battery cables to the IDM, PCM, and through to the engine valley including the UVCH (which I checked when I did the injectors). I think I can pull the harness in sections, which will allow me to really have a good look at each wire.

First off I’ll have a general look at the harness to look for evidence of wear or chewing (the truck did sit outside for an extended period).

Thanks for the information and I’ll post up my next set of results once I am done. Rain is liking our region over the next week so I may end up making room in the garage and moving the truck inside so I can work on it anytime and in any weather.

cheers!

 

I will be following your thread please keep us updated. I’m having issue just like you.

 

Hi folks.

I know that it helps me when people finish off their threads by posting updates - especially the fixes - so I will be sure to keep this one updated.

I checked the wiring from the 42 pin connector to the PCM / IDM and it all looks good.

Then I crawled underneath the truck and checked for obvious signs of damage and saw none.

Next I checked under the dash as best I could and saw nothing obvious. If need be I will start pulling the dash and have a really good look.

Finally I disconnected and removed the harness that sits over the engine valley. I sat in the garage and checked small portions of that harness at a time. This allowed me to immediately replace and re-tape that portion once I had checked over the wiring and found no signs of chaffing, wear, or heat damage.

While I am not done checking that harness over, I did find two areas of concern.

The first thing I found was that some dirt and dialectric grease had gotten into the connector for the CPS. I cleaned it out with some non-electrical contact cleaner and it looks undamaged.

The other issue was the connector that plugs into the turbo / turbo pedestal (EBPV?). It has a wire retainer that you flip over to release or lock the connector. The plastic or rubber inside the connector that keeps the two wires apart was melted and soft, which I think allowed the two wires to contact each other or at least get close to doing so.

I am going to see if I can find that connector online and order it up.

Because I have that part of the harness in the garage I can finish checking it over tomorrow even though we are supposed to get some rain.

I will post up any further findings once I am done checking that harness over. There is no point in not checking out the rest of the harness while it is out and easily accessible.

Questions:

1. How likely is it that the contamination on the CPS was not allowing communication (or only intermittent communication) with the CPS?

2. Could the condition of the EBPV connector have allowed for grounding of the system and if so could that have caused the no start condition (that at first was more of an intermittent no start)?

Thanks.

 

[img]blob:https://www.ford-trucks.com/3297dd40-22d1-43df-a947-6479059fc2ac[/img]

 

Didn’t know I could post a pic from my cell.

I hope it shows how the inside is melted and allows both wires to flop around and potentially touch each other. Or could they even arc?

Once I replace that connector I will heat tape the wires before I put the wire loom back on since the wires seem to be near a heat source.