Diagnosing No Start - IDM Question
As for your questions, excessive contamination is a bad thing. Hard to say if it affected the CPS or not though. Shorting at the EBPV connector may or may not cause the PCM to have a hissy fit. Hard to say also,
I am almost done going through the rest of the harness.
If I don’t find anything else I will replace the bad connector and reinstall the harness, then try starting the truck.
If that doesn’t work I will keep looking through other areas of the truck’s harness.
Thanks.
Probably try to start it after that and see if it goes.
I’ll also clear the codes and run another KOEO test to see if the same codes show up.
The part is 5 days away so likely no updates until Friday.
Cheers
Probably try to start it after that and see if it goes.
I’ll also clear the codes and run another KOEO test to see if the same codes show up.
The part is 5 days away so likely no updates until Friday.
Cheers
Another parts place got the EBPV connector for me overnight so it’s wired in and the harness is back on the truck.
Still a no start condition but at least that portion of the harness should be good.
It’s raining here so I didn’t grab my laptop and run the same tests to see if any results were different. I will do that tomorrow as the rain is supposed to let up.
I think my next step will be to start pulling the grill, etc off and removing my snow plow harness. The connection was bad and I need to replace it anyway so removing it will let me eliminate it as the issue and will give me better access to the wiring in the front of the truck. I can eyeball the wiring to make sure I don’t have any bad wiring in that area.
Further updates to follow as I continue to track this issue.
cheers
P1280
P0122
P0472
P0237
P0000 9. Time between sensor transitions.
I think I can use a multimeter to check voltage at the starter. That should tell me if I have bad battery cables. I’ll do some looking to check for other ways to check so that I can do a complete check.
Wiring at the front of the truck looked good with not obvious signs of damage. I’m going to check toward the rear of the truck to see how it looks.
After that I’ll consider my findings and determine my next steps. There is at least one test I can do with the PCM wiring by using a multimeter on the pins. I have a printout on it I think.
More updates to follow.
Cheers
I was checking my wiring further and my left front turn signal doesn’t work, neither does the hazard lights at the left front. The running lights work - even on the left front. Didn’t have a helper to check brake lights.
Did some reading and some folks have been able to get turn signals working by moving the adjustable steering column. Mine has always been as high as it could go.
When I moved mine down everything quit working - the turn signals all around (at least on the dash indicator) and the hazards quit as well (again on the dash indicator). They don’t work in any position except for the highest one.
It seems that I have a wiring issue in my steering column.
My question is twofold - first, is it doable for a person to get the steering column cover off and access the wiring enough to check things out without the airbag going off?
Second, and perhaps more importantly, is it possible that a wiring issue in my steering column can be causing my no start issue? The truck turns over like it should, but won’t start or even try to. When the problem first showed up it was an intermittent no start condition.
Thanks.
As for whether it is the cause for your no-start condition, yes it is possible. The problem with intermittent electrical faults is that it is hard to predict/determine what the fault actually is and what it will do to the operation of the truck. Wires completely severed, or shorting to each other, or shorting to the chassis, they can cause very different behaviors. All you can do is trace each fault down, find the next one and keep going on down the line until you hopefully get them all. You should disconnect the battery grounds while you are messing with the wiring.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I pushed it in and am tempted to try starting the truck. Good idea or bad idea?
Going to order a new connector and change it out.
Then I’ll try my signal and hazard lights throughout the range of the steering column’s movement.
Thanks
The new connector in the steering column is installed. I removed each wire from the old connector and installed in the new one (after making a diagram of which wire went where) so that I wouldn't have a mess of bulky soldered wires when I was done.
The hazards and turn signals work at any position of the steering column.
I cleared all codes and these ones came back up:
P1280
P0122
P0237
P1000
I just noticed that I did not click on the + sign next to each code (I took a pic so I could list the codes here). My laptop isn't here so I will have to go get it and see if there is anymore info that I can get.
Just to be sure I did another buzz test and it passed. Also did a KOEO test and it passed.
I am still chasing the wiring issue, but also starting to look at fuel and oil pressure. I need to buy some fittings, etc. so that I can test each, but can't see them being available locally so will probably have to wait a week or two depending on where I order from.
So far that's it. More updates to follow as I continue to learn more about my truck.
Thanks
Waiting on a kit for my HPOP and it should be in this week.
It comes with the fitting tool so there’s not a lot I can do before the kit shows up.
It cleared customs on Wednesday so I’ll likely pull the fuel bowl and EBPS this evening and start getting ready.
More updates to follow once the kit is installed.
Cheers
The parts came in yesterday so after work I pulled the fuel bowl and the HPOP.
Had a driving date with my oldest daughter - she’s practicing for her driver’s license - so I’ll clean everything up and complete the mild rebuild on the HPOP this evening.
Should be able to start reinstalling everything this evening so I’ll post an update once it’s all back together.
cheers
I have a question regarding the internal o-ring for the part pictured.
There is an internal o-ring that I think I’m supposed to change. I’ll post a second pic (of the diagram that came with the kit) that appears to tell me that I have to change an internal o-ring.
The reason I’m asking is that I do not want to potentially tear it while removing it only to find that i do not have a replacement. I think I have a replacement, but if the o-ring has squared shoulders then I’m screwed because all of my replacements are the usual round shouldered ones.
hope this makes sense lol.
if I have to I’ll post pics right after I post this - I’m not sure if I can post pics while writing this post. I can’t recall how I did it last time using my cell
thanks!
I can see an o-ring in there - or at least it appears to be an o-ring. I do not want to try removing it before getting some kind of assurance that it needs to be changed. And I mean an assurance from someone more knowledgeable than I or my quick research can tell me.
Thanks a ton!












