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Bleeding Power Steering?

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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 05:21 PM
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Bleeding Power Steering?

My 68 F-100 4x4 has a 76+ power steering swap. I recently had to replace reservoir seal on the pump and replaced both hoses while apart, so system was almost completely drained. Got everything back together, filled the system, and thought I bled it while still in jack stands. My attempt to bleed consisted of slowly turning steering wheel lock to lock while on stands and wheels off, both with and without engine running. After getting it back in all 4 and attempting to drive it feels like no power steering. In hindsight I think when I was attempting to bleed, I was just pushing all the fluid out.

Over the next few days I want to attempt to bleed the system again. Any tips or tricks to make it go right this time?
 
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 10:22 PM
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Bleed p/s the FORD way and it works every time!!!
1- Hook everything up
2- Fill with fluid
3- Jack up front of truck off of ground (Both front wheels)
4- Disconnect or Disable coil (So Truck CANNOT start)
5- Turn Steering wheel lock to lock about 5 to 10 times
6- Top off Fluid
7- Repeat Step 5
8- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
9- Crank engine over (Ignition Disabled) and turn steering lock to lock 5 to 10 times
10- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
11- Repeat Step 9 (crank eng over)
12- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
13- Enable Ignition
14- Start Truck and turn Lock to Lock 5-10 times
15- Turn off Truck
16- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
17- Repeat Step 14 (start truck)
18- Repeat Step 15 (turn off truck)
19- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
20- Let Truck Down off of Jacks or jack Stands
21- Repeat Step 14


 
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
Bleed p/s the FORD way and it works every time!!!
1- Hook everything up
2- Fill with fluid
3- Jack up front of truck off of ground (Both front wheels)
4- Disconnect or Disable coil (So Truck CANNOT start)
5- Turn Steering wheel lock to lock about 5 to 10 times
6- Top off Fluid
7- Repeat Step 5
8- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
9- Crank engine over (Ignition Disabled) and turn steering lock to lock 5 to 10 times
10- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
11- Repeat Step 9 (crank eng over)
12- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
13- Enable Ignition
14- Start Truck and turn Lock to Lock 5-10 times
15- Turn off Truck
16- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
17- Repeat Step 14 (start truck)
18- Repeat Step 15 (turn off truck)
19- Repeat Step 6 (top off fluid)
20- Let Truck Down off of Jacks or jack Stands
21- Repeat Step 14
Yeah, I definitely didn't do all of that the last time. I'll give it a shot as soon as I have a chance to work on it again. Hopefully in the next few days if the weather holds out.

Step 9... Is that crank engine while turning steering,or crank engine then turn steering?

Thanks!
 
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 06:29 PM
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Just wanted to pop back in and say thanks!

Ran through most of those procedures, but I will admit that I stopped after step 19. Well before that point the fluid level was staying steady, but there was no improvement in the steering effort. Started ticking back through all the stuff I did during the time the steering initially went out on the truck to see if I could find anything that might have changed to cause a problem.

Replaced broken front spring towers. Installed new springs. Installed new shocks. That could have changed alignment, though after ride height is extremely close to before, so I doubt it changed much. On top of that, while it might efect steering effort driving, it's not going to have that much effect on jack stands.

Replaced power steering reservoir seal and one of the internal seals on the pump. I decided wasn't having a pump problem before, why cause one, and put everything back just like it came apart. I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade, very used to making sure things get taken apart and reassembled the right way. Also replaced both power steering hoses, but no leaks and no kinks, so shouldn't be an issue there.

The only other thing I changed was the steering damper. Stock replacement damper from O'Reilly should be a bolt in and go. No problems there right? WRONG!!! Pulled it back out and instant improvement. Turns out I was fighting against a too stiff damper and not against the power steering. I think I'll be fine without the damper for now, the old one was so worn out it wasn't doing anything and it was driving pretty well like that. Since I don't know now if I actually had a factory damper setup I'll probably look into a complete aftermarket solution, new brackets and all.

I'll put it back on the ground tomorrow and see how it drives, but I think my problem is solved for the moment. I really want to do it now, but I work midnight shift and didn't sleep today. Probably shouldn't be out on a test drive today. If how bad I've butchered this post trying to type it is any indication, I probably don't need to be doing anything other than finding a bed.

Once again... Appreciate the help!
 
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 07:23 PM
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Glad it helped and that you found the problem. See flight control checks are for a reason.... "no binding or restrictions felt during flt control ck ".

Crew rest regulations can keep you from augering it in.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
Glad it helped and that you found the problem. See flight control checks are for a reason.... "no binding or restrictions felt during flt control ck ".
Sounds like you might have some experience around military aircraft, or at least aircraft in general. I'm not military, but work depot level maintenance. Haven't had the privilege of running flight control checks yet, hoping that might change in the future. Really trying to get away from maintenance though. Working on 16 years, and if I stay in maintenance I probably still be working out of a tool box in another 21 years (hit full retirement age/years). I've seen what it does to the old timers, I don't want to be in that condition and not able to enjoy retirement.

Originally Posted by 77&79F250
Crew rest regulations can keep you from augering it in.
AMEN! Just wish it was always under my control. Like I said, working night shift 11pm - 7am for the last 4 weeks and it's got my sleep habits busted, not that they were good before that. Fortunately I don;t go back in until Sunday. Just two more weeks, back to day shift and hopefully settle into a proper routine this time.

Now back to studying steering stabilizers. While I had what is apparently a "stock style" stabilizer, it was not a stock setup. My truck is a 68 F-100 chassis and axle with (it appears) 76 F-100/150 power steering and steering components. Dad did the power steering swap 30 years ago, but doesn't recall details unfortunately. Who would after 30 years? The stabilizer installation is not stock style for either truck. Looks more like brackets for the second stabilizer in a dual setup, but no idea who made the stuff and no markings on the old stabilizer that match to a maker or part number. Now I get to study stock and/or aftermarket installations for everything around that age and see what I can make work best. Kinda looks like frame bracket for Early Bronco with drag link (?) bracket for 76 F-100.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 08:24 PM
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You know the deal, get out while the back is good. Transition to an IA with a clip board/insp mirror. I have 20 years as an Army Blackhawk Mech/19 years on flt status as a crewchief/flight engineer/gunner. Got my FAA A&P about retirement time (06) and still at crewing/gunning to this day. Body armor above 50 yrs is no fun, but the sure guns are. Sorry I digress. Oh yea....Crew rest...... if you do not do it your body will do it for you...and that is usually a bad thing and at bad time.

66-77 EB (Early Bronco) / (FYI all EB's had a trac bar set up) steering damper mount bracket #3E652 (engine cradle mounted) looks alot like a 73-79 F100/F150 4wd and on a 78/79 full size Bronco.

 
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 10:33 AM
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Welp, damper removed made a difference on stands, but I'm now convinced that I've got no power steering what so ever. Went through everything again this morning. After putting it on the ground I had to two hand it in an attempt to drive around the yard. That ain't right for this thing. When the reservoir seal failed I though I got it stopped before any damage was done. I was actually stopped at a stop sign and thought the truck was on fire. Power steering worked when approaching the stop sign, was gone when I limped it through the intersection to a wide spot on the shoulder, maybe 30 yards. Pulled the belt so it wasn't functional while I limped home. I'm now thinking the failed seal must have drained the system and taken out the pump before I could get stopped.

I think the next step is to get a new pump and try again. I hate to spend the money when I think it should be working. but it's even worse to keep fighting what might be a bad pump. It's even possible that the pump is fine and I did something wrong when I opened it up, but it's still better to replace than keep fighting it.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
66-77 EB (Early Bronco) / (FYI all EB's had a trac bar set up) steering damper mount bracket #3E652 (engine cradle mounted) looks alot like a 73-79 F100/F150 4wd and on a 78/79 full size Bronco.
Yep, just trying to figure out what pieces will work best for my particular truck. Thanks for the diagram, it does help me see how it all goes together better than looking at people's suspension pics.

The drag link is stock style so it doesn't have accommodations for bolt on stabilizer bracket like the picture above, but the bronco style bracket mounts with u-bolts, so it should work fine.

Looks like my front cross member has the mounting holes drilled all the way through for a Bronco (& maybe Bumpside F-100) style frame bracket. That said there are two styles of frame bracket for the Early Bronco, one (earlier) has the stabalizer mount hole and bolt holes aligned, the other (later) appears to have the stabilizer hole offset towards the front of the truck a little. Got to figure out which would be better in my application, but I think the later style would work better since i think it would keep the stabilizer more parallel with the axle and steering.
 
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