Really, 142K ??
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Joined: Jul 2017
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Really, 142K ??
OK, I decided that rather than completely rebuilding my 7.3, I would just purchase a "low" mileage engine off ebay. I chose a large diesel specialist recycler and found one with only 142K. However it was in BC, Canada, fine I can wait....
Well it got here and after unpacking, attaching to my engine stand, cleaning, cleaning, cleaning I began to strip it. I have found several things that make me doubt the seller's mileage claim and need opinions. I do have in writing that the compression's were: "All of them were within 5lb or 2%. Range low 380 and high 385". Unfortunately, it was too difficult to rig a starter to my engine stand and test those numbers before I actually get it into my F250 XLT (and then it's too late [img]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img] ) So here are the things on this engine that don't make sense for a 2002 with only 142K.
First, the amount and depth of rust. I don't know what they put on their roads in BC but this is MUCH worse than my '99 with 250K!! Here are just a few examples...
Oil pan
Exhaust manifold (really deep pitting)
Oil cooler (thought these were SS?)
Then when I got to the HPOP, I see that it is a reman? Is this reasonable for a 7.3 with only 142K?
Any and all opinions are welcome. Well other than, "you should have purchased a long block from ..." I checked into that route and it was beyond my budget.
Thanks from an old female mechanic (career as computer analyst, NASA and Siemens) on her first diesel adventure [img]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img]
Well it got here and after unpacking, attaching to my engine stand, cleaning, cleaning, cleaning I began to strip it. I have found several things that make me doubt the seller's mileage claim and need opinions. I do have in writing that the compression's were: "All of them were within 5lb or 2%. Range low 380 and high 385". Unfortunately, it was too difficult to rig a starter to my engine stand and test those numbers before I actually get it into my F250 XLT (and then it's too late [img]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img] ) So here are the things on this engine that don't make sense for a 2002 with only 142K.
First, the amount and depth of rust. I don't know what they put on their roads in BC but this is MUCH worse than my '99 with 250K!! Here are just a few examples...
Oil pan
Exhaust manifold (really deep pitting)
Oil cooler (thought these were SS?)
Then when I got to the HPOP, I see that it is a reman? Is this reasonable for a 7.3 with only 142K?
Any and all opinions are welcome. Well other than, "you should have purchased a long block from ..." I checked into that route and it was beyond my budget.
Thanks from an old female mechanic (career as computer analyst, NASA and Siemens) on her first diesel adventure [img]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img]
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 734
Likes: 37
From: Schenectady
Don’t know about the Reman HPOP. Honestly the pictures of rust look like what is expected from 20 years of salt driving. Mine looked similar, E99 with ~145,000 miles currently. I have since replaced everything rusted in your pictures and more.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
From: MN
Yeah you don't need a lot of mileage for a lot of rust. Mines an 02 with 153k in NH and manifolds are about shot, bolts to up pipes are gone and oil pan just started seeping. And I undercoat my truck too. Doesn't take a lot of salt driving and sitting in humid freeze/ thaw can rot it out. Local guy was telling me the block will rot right out around these parts.
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New User
Joined: Jul 2017
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is there anyway to get the VIN from the engine SN or whatever number is stamped on it? that should be like matching an engine to a chassis for authentication purposes of a classic car/truck.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 793
Likes: 29
Well, it is yours now. Apologies as that may have come-across as rough, but it is what it is.
What is the goal of a VIN? Sue the seller if things do not add-up? Hope not as that will cost more than buying a couple remans.
As others noted, photos are showing rust that is common. I have less mileage than that on my motor and even the valve cover bolts are gnasty. Manifolds started to look like artichokes with all the layers of rust 15 or so years ago.
These trucks have not taken well to brine as they were built before that carcinogenic stuff was put on roads.
Point is, either fixate on the rust and get frustrated, or start planning a way forward. At this point, something is telling me that the more economical path would have been to go with a reman which came with at least a minimal warranty.
What is the goal of a VIN? Sue the seller if things do not add-up? Hope not as that will cost more than buying a couple remans.
As others noted, photos are showing rust that is common. I have less mileage than that on my motor and even the valve cover bolts are gnasty. Manifolds started to look like artichokes with all the layers of rust 15 or so years ago.
These trucks have not taken well to brine as they were built before that carcinogenic stuff was put on roads.
Point is, either fixate on the rust and get frustrated, or start planning a way forward. At this point, something is telling me that the more economical path would have been to go with a reman which came with at least a minimal warranty.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
I agree with the others on that rust from the great white north and on the HPOP...they rarely go bad but frequently get accused of being the problem and get replaced unnecessarily. One thing I don't understand is that they say that rebuilt HPOP's generally don't last long but the performance HPOP's are mostly rebuilt ones. 
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,278
Likes: 1,658
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
I agree with the others on that rust from the great white north and on the HPOP...they rarely go bad but frequently get accused of being the problem and get replaced unnecessarily. One thing I don't understand is that they say that rebuilt HPOP's generally don't last long but the performance HPOP's are mostly rebuilt ones.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,813
Likes: 1,335
From: Elk Grove, CA
I'd go ahead and replace rusty bits like the oil pan now while it is out and you can do it properly. Exhaust manifolds and/or bolts too.
The 142k is the easiest number for them to grab so I'd expect it to be correct.
Is your 99 early or late? Now is the time to update to late. Plus the usual goodies like bellowed uppies and at least a billet wheel for the turbo, unless you can do a better turbo in your area.
To me it all looks good so far.
The 142k is the easiest number for them to grab so I'd expect it to be correct.
Is your 99 early or late? Now is the time to update to late. Plus the usual goodies like bellowed uppies and at least a billet wheel for the turbo, unless you can do a better turbo in your area.
To me it all looks good so far.
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OK, not sure yet what i'm going to do about that reman HPOP but i am doing the following:
- Oil pan from my '99 7.3 which looks great and already has a well sealed oil dipstick using the Moroso gasket with studs (from Riffraff)
- GTP38R, bellowed up-pipes and Rosewood 160/80's (i'm rebuilding) from my '99
- using my '99 exhaust manifolds with all new (Motorcraft) bolts
- Cerakote C-7600 the whole hot side (manifolds, uppies, "Y" and turbine housing
- EBPV delete including pedestal and high flow outlet from Riffraff
- CCV delete custom built
- AIH delete (WOW, maybe just "delete" the whole 7.3, lol)
- Input plenum inserts and all new charge system boots
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,590
Likes: 382
From: Texas
Yeah, replace that HPOP with either a factory used one from a parts truck or drop the coin for a new one. That would be my first order of business.