So I pushed the button to close the passenger window, it went slowly up as usual... then whoosh, clunk, it went all the way down.

I took off the interior door panel and felt around in there, there is definitely a loose cable. On the first try I can't figure out where all the cables should go.
I was able to get the window all the way up (had to turn on the 'up" switch some more to get slack in that part of the cable) and then I wedged a scavenged piece of 2x2 wood in there and shot a screw so it is holding the window up. Didn't spoil our camping weekend, and it is clear the window is working in the track OK.

Is there a common failure point here? Something I should look for?
The Haynes manual makes it sound like I need to take the window glass out before I can take the regulator mechanism out, is this correct?
Do I just buy a regulator mechanism from a junkyard, er I mean automotive recycler, or are there specific parts or pulleys or whatever that I need?
Or is this a job I should let a specialist do? The local truck repair or a glass specialist? I'm a good mechanic but obviously I've never done this job on this vehicle before. I'm not too proud to admit that there are some jobs that it's better to take to an expert.

Any advice, please?

 

I'm in the auto/truck business so might be able to help.....first off though how about including your year, model and other pertinent info somewhere its easily seen when requesting help? Not every Ford E-Series were built exactly the same across the years.

The glass does NOT need to be removed from the door shell to replace the regulator.

Since the glass is intact its possible to DIY replace the regulator but finding parts in a scrap yard is NOT in your best interest---you have no idea what condition such a part would be so ask yourself how many times do you want to do this job? If budget is the concern call the local big chain parts houses---they sell aftermarket stuff by Dorman etc. There is no way to "repair" a failed regulator so replacement is the only option.

Remove the door panel, then the plastic sheeting that will probably still be in place if the door has never been serviced. Move the glass within the door shell to a place you can drill the two 1/4" aluminum rivets out which will separate the glass from the regulator. CAREFULLY punch the rivet mandrels out using quick sharp but light blows with a hammer and center punch---once those are out drill out the 4 aluminum rivets holding the regulator to the door shell. Paying attention to how the metal channel on the glass fits into the top of the regulator and replicate that when installing the new part.

Since you won't have access to the rivets and tools needed to set tri-split rivets use 1/4-20 hex head bolts no more than 3/4" in length along with Nylok locking nuts. Once the regulator is installed fit the glass back into its place on top of the regulator and with the same 1/4-20 bolts and locking nuts re-attached the glass. While the door panel is off move the glass through its up/down travel in order to assure it moves freely in the run channel.

Keep in mind this is a job perhaps best left to those who do it as a profession as there is a danger in glass breakage if you're unfamiliar working with tempered automotive glass. You can supply the part, get quotes on labor only, see if its cheaper if you take the van and parts to them and wait on them to complete the job.

Good luck with this !

 

Thanks for the detailed reply, JWA!
Sorry for the lack of detail in my question, I keep forgetting that I don't have a .sig in this forum yet to automatically add that.
It's a 2002 E-350 Chateau. 7.3L PSD but that's probably not relevant here. Power windows.

I've got the inner panel and the plastic off already. So the regulator includes the vertical slide bar? The whole thing just comes out as a unit? Motor and cables and slider bar. That doesn't seem too bad.

The first online vendor I checked doesn't list the regulators for power windows, just the manual ones, and the motor alone without regulator. I'll keep looking.

 

Regardless what is or is not in a signature or avatar always list what vehicle you're asking about---not everyone has their display properties set to show such things. Making it easier for someone to help rather than force them having to ask additional questions or try finding vehicle information isn't productive..

This is what the new regulator arrives:



I buy from the dealer as cheap parts just aren't worth the cost and hassle of early failures.

HTH