92 Explorer - can't insert/turn ignition key
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From: Edmonton, Alberta
92 Explorer - can't insert/turn ignition key
Hey there guys! I just bought a 92 Explorer, which is in really good shape. However, it does have one problem - the key doesn't work well in the ignition.
Sometimes it is impossible to get in and turn - I have to give it a sharp blow to drive it into the ignition, and it will then turn properly. This doesn't strike me as being healthy! As well, when I take the key out, the alert chime will go off when I open the door - it thinks the key is still in the ignition.
Can anyone help me out with this issue? Thanks!
Tyler
Sometimes it is impossible to get in and turn - I have to give it a sharp blow to drive it into the ignition, and it will then turn properly. This doesn't strike me as being healthy! As well, when I take the key out, the alert chime will go off when I open the door - it thinks the key is still in the ignition.
Can anyone help me out with this issue? Thanks!
Tyler
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From: South Texas
You are going to need to replace the cylinder for the ignition lock. Sounds also like you have a piece of the plastic from the key-in ignition-switch to chime, broken off and lodged in lock cylinder. Replacement cylinders are reasonable (around $20 from most auto supply stores) and can also be re-keyed to match the original at any competent locksmith. R&R is fairly simple also. Search this forum for ignition switch cylinder repairs for how-to.
Dialtone
Dialtone
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From: Edmonton, Alberta
Thanks mate! I presume you are referring to:
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-Jun-02 AT 03:41 PM (EST)]Steps per Haynes manual:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable(both cables if airbag equipped)
2. Remove the Steering Wheel
3. Remove 2 screws securing instrument panel trim piece below steering column and remove trim.
4. Tilt steering wheel only: Squeeze upper extension shroud at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions and pop it free from retaining plate.
5. Remove 2 screws securing the steering column upper and lower shrouds and remove both.
6. Turn lock cylinder to the first (Run) position.
7. Disconnect electrical connector to switch.
8. Insert a small screwdriver into the ignition switch housing and release the actuator pin while pulling out on the switch.
I shall give it a try!
Tyler
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-Jun-02 AT 03:41 PM (EST)]Steps per Haynes manual:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable(both cables if airbag equipped)
2. Remove the Steering Wheel
3. Remove 2 screws securing instrument panel trim piece below steering column and remove trim.
4. Tilt steering wheel only: Squeeze upper extension shroud at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions and pop it free from retaining plate.
5. Remove 2 screws securing the steering column upper and lower shrouds and remove both.
6. Turn lock cylinder to the first (Run) position.
7. Disconnect electrical connector to switch.
8. Insert a small screwdriver into the ignition switch housing and release the actuator pin while pulling out on the switch.
I shall give it a try!
Tyler
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You might not, i have a 92 also, and there is a little bit of play with the igtion on mine when the key is out it you turn it a little the door chime will go off and if you try to put the key in it wont go in, but if you turn it back to the center were it should be the key goes in fine,
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From: Edmonton, Alberta
Hey golfboy - I don't think that that was the problem; I tried jiggling every which way for about 10min before I got frustrated and just banged that key in.
But I think the prob may be solved anyway. I had new keys cut recently and the problem has gone away. I think the key I was using must have been a little warped or something. Nonetheless, I think I will try replacing the lock cylinder anyway, just to be on the safe side.
But I think the prob may be solved anyway. I had new keys cut recently and the problem has gone away. I think the key I was using must have been a little warped or something. Nonetheless, I think I will try replacing the lock cylinder anyway, just to be on the safe side.
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My family has 2 explorer's and on my moms the key doesnt go in well. I had to kind of slap the key in order to unlock the ignition. Finally i got a new copy of the key from my dad and it was fine, so it could be that the key is bent or mishapen?
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No, you don't have to go thru all of that for either of them. Look under the column shroud. There are 4 small holes. 3 of them have screws in them. The fourth one ( directly under the lock cylinder) is the release pin. Look in there with a flashlight. Take something like a #1 phillips or a torx driver and, with the lock in the RUN position, push up on the pin and pull the lock.
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Those key cylinders are notorious for the lock ears coming loose. Ask any competent Locksmith. They are designed extremely poorly, just a little extra effort on the tooling /design would have worked wonders. Of course it could be one of those planned obsolescence deals 
Neither my 91 or 94 had the hole to get at the retaining pin. I had to pull the steering wheel apart. The process was similar for both, just don't pull or force any of those plastic parts.
Neither my 91 or 94 had the hole to get at the retaining pin. I had to pull the steering wheel apart. The process was similar for both, just don't pull or force any of those plastic parts.
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sheeeeesh what a job i will bet
yes the reapair manual says there is a hole , BUT there is no hole to release the lock,,,,,,, I did take all the covering from the column except the steering wheel and seen nothing like a hole to put a push device,,, I wonder if a hole could be drilled under the where ever the push pin is to release the cylinder? Seems like a job removing the wheel etc............
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From: South Texas
When I replaced my cylinder, I had to remove the steering wheel to get access to the release pin hole. If memory serves me right, I also had to temp re-install wheel and activate the tilt mechanism upward to gain access to the hole. The hole runs upward at about a 45 degree angle. May have to rotate the steering wheel around a bit to get the tilt yoke in proper position for access to the hole. It helps to visualize where the hole is located if you take the new cylinder and hold it near the location and spot the release pin location in relation to the column.
Dialtone
Dialtone
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Ford all ways has a Great Idea ,, Nothing Simple,, @2 hour job for a simple 10 min installation--We had a 96 Blazer last year, When it got freezing cold here ( indiana ) The Hubs would not lock in,, Electronic locking I was told ,, So it got a new home, We bought a 98 Ford F 150-- 160,000 miles on it, Wife was driving it from a near by city, She stopped to get a few things, She was backing up and heard a pop and grinding sound, She walked around the truck and seen nothing,,, NOW ! Listen to this, I was with some friends when she pulled in, The Left Front tie rod was dragging on the ground she drove this truck about 25 miles with it broken,,, Mech. speaking there was no way,,, BUT she did and the Right side was ready to break, God is GREAT!!!!!!!
But we will still keep the Explorer,, Wifes mail delivery SUV!!!!
Thanks All
Bobby & Theresa
But we will still keep the Explorer,, Wifes mail delivery SUV!!!!
Thanks All
Bobby & Theresa
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