Just got the call my '03 long block is getting ready for shipment, I had it built at Dynamic Diesel Performance and Machine.

It is their state 2 build with a billet cam, heavy springs and 625 studs. It comes with a new front cover and base oil pump. I am sill on the fence about either running stock injectors or 155/30s.

I will be installing:

• New ODawg Ported Intake SR2
• New GPP Ported Exhaust
• New DieselRx Glow Plugs
• New OEM HPOP
• New OEM Oil Cooler
• New Hose Assembly for the oil logs (both sides)
• New Stand Piples
• New Heater supply tubing
• New 2 of Fumoto F-108N Engine Oil Drain Valve for coolant draining
• New Upgraded Turbo Supply Tube
• New High Flow Banjo Bolts
• New Mishimoto Radiator
• New HHC Diesel~ LeakProof Nipple Cup Master Kit
• EGR Delete (Reinstalled)

I am rebulding the '03 turbo with:

• Turbo Lab America 6.0 Powermax Billet Wheel, Compressor Housing and Rebuild Kit
• PULSAR 03 6.0L Powerstroke GT3782VA Turbo Nitrided Unison Ring + 15mm Vane
• I will be sending the shaft turbine and compressor wheel out to Turbo Labs of America to have balanced.

I fabbed up an engine lift plate for the on-cab removal and feel pretty comfortable with that I have to do to get the engine out and the new one in.

I plan on installing the Oil Cooler, HPOP, GPs and Injectors while it hangs on the lift and renting the IPR HPOP Tool to test for high pressure oil leaks before buttoning up and installing the engine.

What i'm looking for are thoughts about what I may have missed in my thoughts on my build?

And what I need to do before I start it up? Is it safe to prime the base oil system with the starter? Is it best to leave a couple of GPs out and try to prime by hand?

What I don't want to do is some sort of bone head mistake that kills the injectors or engine.

 

I also plan on installing a fuel pressure gauge and the blue wire fan mod as well as doing some rust prevention painting while the engine is out.

 

I just chained mine up between the lifting eyes and pulled it out that way. When I get my motor in I was planning on pulling the FICM relay and turning it over until I see ICP and then put it back in and let 'er eat. It will take some cranking as the oil cooler valley will be dry and the HPOP has to prime everything.

Pulling the engine isn't too hard, just time consuming. I left my transmission in and used the tranny jack under it to hold it up.

Instead of the blue wire mod, go for the BPD fan clutch adapter and a 7.3 fan clutch. I did that a few years back and it works much better than the stock setup. I never did mess with a blue wire mod or anything like that.

Also, while you have it apart, get rid of the fan stator. Makes it so much easier working on the motor.

Napa makes a water pump with a metal impeller too that is much cheaper than the BPD pump.

 

I asked Charlie Fish (owner of KC Turbos) about the ported intake and he said he doesn’t recommend it unless you are going for 800 plus horsepower and install ported and polished heads and the necessary turbo etc to achieve that horsepower. Basically talked me out of buying a $850 intake from him.

 

Apologies for a potential thread derail, but it looks like there are several here who are in the process of a rebuild or recently completed one & I just wanted to inquire about costs of building the 6.0 vs a cummins swap. I know the complete package from Diesel Conversion Specialists is about $5200. With that in mind, what would be the price point for a CR Cummins that would make the swap comparable in cost to a mild performance build on the 6.0? Just asking as I have a cousin who recently rolled a 05' cummins that I could probably buy very reasonably. Not having any issues with my 6.0 currently & it only has 140k on the odometer, so it should be good for a long time sitll; just can't seem to get the thought out of my head.

 

I would have done a Cummins swap if I didn’t already have a ton of pricey upgraded 6.0 parts. You have to weigh the accessories that go along with the Cummins. It adds up.

 

Thanks for the feedbak all.

I forgot to mention that I have a year old Diselsite billet 90mm water pump I'll be reinstalling. Otherwise I would have went with a newer style front-cover and larger water pump. I am also installing the IPR full flow gen3 coolant filter.

SmackDaddy, that is great information but it seems I missed my return date window d'oh! I could have used that $850 towards a new lift kit with fresh springs!

Byrd.Dog I thought about the Cummins swap but weighed out the cost to build reliability into the 6.0 and the support of thousands of others owners and their experiences. The Fummings would be fun but I certainly wouldn't have got the funds from the household account for my rebuild.

Saying that, this engine comes with a 5 year warranty and for the most part, hopefully, should have most of the 6.0 bugs worked out.

With a few sensors and others, I should be around $16k installed.

Next on the list after getting the engine in and going?

• 4 or 5" Exhaust,
• Built Tranny,
• New FR & R springs and possibly new 4" lift kit (I'm thinking about a BBS kit with springs)
• Paint
• Reupholstered seats to match Harley Davidson theme
• Upgraded radio head unit retaining the RES for the kids
• Maybe FR and R Sulastic Shackels

 

Good point. If I were needing head gaskets or any other major work done to the motor, I wouldn't hesitate to buy the Cummins, but as little as I drive mine, it could easily go another 10 years. Was really just looking to get a ballpark figure of what it costs to build a 6.0 right.

 

A Cummins swap is damn spendy unless you get the Cummins for free.

I looked into it for my truck since I had to replace the engine anyway.

Ended up doing a used motor from a van and will be out of it for 3700 or. 750 of that is gaskets, glow plugs, harness, up pipe hardware and seals because I had to swap covers and oil pans. 350 in machine work for the heads, 2250 for the engine and transmission and then the rest is incidentals, tools, etc.