I will surely be needing help soon ,lol. I just placed my order for the BPD oil cooler condenser mount setup plus a powermax turbo. I was needing a new oil cooler due to ect/eot spread of 37 degrees and decided I didn't want to ever have to worry about it again. The job looks daunting as I have never torn into this truck that far before, I also bought the topside creeper and tool tray. I also bought a ipr socket. Is there any other special tool that I may need or other parts to replace while in there? They have a professional kit of parts that they use on all of their projects that I bought as well Here is the breakdown:



Bullet Proof Oil Cooler System, 2005-2007 F-Series, Condenser Mount *
2005-2006 6.0L Professional Package - BPD Oil System
Improved Turbo Oil Drain Tube, 2003-2006
Diesel Oil Filter, Spin-On, Large Capacity,
Oil Pressure Switch
High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) Pressure Fitting Upgrade Kit, 2005-2007 *
Fuel Filter Assembly O-Ring Seal Kit
Ford VGT Turbo Control Solenoid Pigtail Harness
Ford Fuel Filters for 6.0L Diesel
EGR Valve Gasket Set, Ford 6.0L Diesel, 2003-UP *
Fan Clutch Wire Harness Saver, Ford 6.0L *

Garrett Turbo for 2004.25 and Newer Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel, GT3788VA, Stage 1, Non-Ball Bearing Turbo, Higher Performance Turbo

*

 

Wow, lots of us will be following along with you on this one! I've read the thermostat was a good option on the external oil cooler kits. Does the BDP system have one?

 

The BPD thermostat is like $300 extra - and probably worth it.
When I have on the A/C there is plenty of heat to keep the oil hot.
When the outside temps are in the 60s (or below),
without using the A/C, it typically stays 180 or so - especially
on the hiway (even driving 10 hours to NC it'll stay 184 at most with
outside temps 40 to 60).

Don't think it's a problem, just giving my observations.
I might be moving to San Jose, CA (Or Durango, CO) depending
on job offers and I'd have felt better in those environs with the BPD tstat.

But, I sure enjoy not worrying about the ECT/EOT deltas a LOT!

 

Not sure about the thermostat. But I live here in south Florida, where it is either hot or a little hot, so I have no fear about the oil ever getting too cool, I assume that maybe the cold weather package may contain the thermostat. That they offer , But the coldest weather I ever see here is 30F, and that is the low for about 2 hours for maybe 2 days out of the year. I am ready to evict the heated seat option out of my truck for the same reason, I hit that stupid button consistently in August.

 

I think what sold me on the turbo, mine is not bad, although it does puff blue smoke once warmed up so i think the seals are going,but I heard a 6.0 today with it and my god it was whistling so loud I heard it a block away in traffic, go search YouTube on the powermax. It is full on jet engine sounding

 

I did my BPD upgrade earlier this year. Actually did it all myself without any help. I had hardly even opened the hood on the truck. I only had it a few months before my EGR cooler blew. Getting the bumper off and back on was a chore though. No special tools needed. Just attention to detail. Put the passenger side return oil line on before you mount the turbo. Don't ask me how I know... Also recommend using hair spray to seal the CAC boots real good. Thought I blew up something when mine popped off during a test WOT run.

Good luck...

 

I appreciate the tips! It looks like their kit comes with some real good instructions too for those of us who wrench for hobby! I know the techs that visit this site probably only come here to laugh at us amateurs and get a kick out of it.

 

It's very doable by yourself. I didn't remove the bumper and I didn't evac the AC system but I did remove the headlight panel for easier access to all the plumbing behind it. I also got a 1 1/4" (?) double open end wrench with one end turned at a 90* angle for tightening the oil lines from Mac tools. It makes life a LOT easier in tight spaces.

 

parts so far....

got some tools to help with this task. topside creeper and topside tool tray
posting some pics while it is raining. so far so good.

 

When I lived in a colder climate I used to wire a piece of cardboard in front of my car's radiator for quicker warmups in the winter. I would cut a small square in the cardboard to allow a small air flow. Would this work of these trucks to keep the oil warmer in the coldest days? With the cardboard in front of the oil cooler instead of the radiator. The $300.00 for the thermostat is kind of steep and just something else to go wrong.

 

this is definately something i plan to do in the future are you going to keep updating on progress or problems you run into, or dont. If so i am subscribing...lol

 

Looks like you making some progress

If you can take a bunch of pics Im kinda curios about the part thats installed to reroute the oil & coolant mostly

and also the fan clutch wire saver where did you find this at??? never heard of it B4

Good Luck

 

this is where i have gottent o so far, the parts counter is getting more full
i have taken off
fan shroud
both batteries 8mm
drained 1 gallon of coolant from radiator drain **** ( this was a hoot, i opened the drain **** and had the gallon jug ready to go. so i got about a qtr of it filled then the flow started stopping, i was thinking OMG! my truck has been empty on coolant, then i started thinking maybe the headgasket was blown,then i realized the degas bottle was still capped, so i went to open it) note to self, place cap back on drain **** before opening degas cap, it came out of there faster than i have ever seen coolant flow. now call me a noob, but once i drained this gal after i pulled the degas bottle it must not have been enough or the thermostat was preventing the coolant still in the top of the motor from drainig cause i still spilled about a gallon it seems. after i took this thing out


it is the black tube that goes to the heater hose on the passenger side. that has 2 bolts that hold it down one on top of the intake manifold and one behind the pulley there. well that stupid tube caused me unecessary curse words, it is jammed in there like the egr valve held in by the o-ring well there seems no good place to get a good grab of it to get it out, and when i did, another coolant bath, this time i was not prepared, and it got all over the entire motor, oh well live and learn,

I removed the intake system from filter to turbo, passenger side boost tube,
then i decided to remove the alternator, i knew it was a 1/2 drive but for the life of me i couldn't get the thing to go into the tensioner, so i grabbed a mirror, thats when i could see that the breaker bar you are using needs to be angled at a 45 towards the passenger side to make it go in
in between this i was removing all the harness connectors on top of the engine.

then it was time to get the turbo out, i had coated it in pb blaster before i started, i was shocked to find the bolt on the passenger side was hand tight,the other 2 came out with no issues, now the downpipe is no problem, i had just been in there to put on my 4" turbo back so it was familiar, the up pipe as you can see gave me a little bit of another set of curse words, i didnt have a 11mm deep so i had to use a 7/16. The uppipe clamp bolt needs to be backed off almost to the end of the threads, then i grabbed my trusty pry bar and began working the clamp, that thing required a hammer and pry bar to bust it loose, after that is done i unbolted the wire harness clamp from turbo housing unplugged the vgt solenoid removed the oil feed bolt on top of motor, but i left the feed line attatched to the top of the turbo and pulled it out as one piece, the trick to the turbo is to place a pry bar under the turbo and on top of the pedestal and pry it up off the oil drain tube and pulled and twisted the downpipe side clockwise (if you were looking down at turbo form the top of the motor) and out she came

 

how did you put it in without evac of the a/c system? i am still in the process of removing parts so i will see when i get to that part

 

I unbolted the condensor and rolled the drivers side end up in the air. Since I was by myself I bungeed one end to the hood latch loop and then bolted the assembled BPD cooler to the condensor per the instructions. You have to be EXTREMELY careful that you get the mount screws and spacers in the right spots so that you don't put a screw through a condensor tube and that the cooler is the right height since it holds the cooler/condensor assembly using the old condensor mounts. If you have someone helping you you can do the whole process in 10 minutes.

During this whole process you also need to check the size of your transmission cooler. If it's 17" tall you'll need to alter the brackets. 14" tall and it's good to go where it sits.