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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

No start 1986 Ford E-350

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Old Jun 12, 2020 | 11:43 AM
  #16  
Madison Tullis's Avatar
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I am spending hours on testing everyday. The coil tests OK. All my grounds zero out and my multimeter show no breaks in the wires. I really think my problem is coming from the Ignition control module. I tested the green/yellow wire for continuity and it zeros out. Yet I am NOT getting a pulse on the negative side of the coil when cranking. It's a constant 9v with the ignition on and the red wire (positive) is a constant 12v.
It looks like the previous owners went thru the same steps I did to attempt to get it running. They threw new spark plugs and wires at it, a distributer and a new ICM and coil (all from autozone) in there. It's got a blue tab on the back of the ICM. I was thinking what if their problem all along was the ICM and they got the wrong color box. I was reading on some other forums that you have to match the color tab on the back of the ICM. Is there any way to know which color ICM is supposed to go with my car so I can rule this out of not?
i am not experienced with the duraspark system but I've come to know it a lot more. Is there any other possibility for the green/yellow to not pulse under cranking? Any help is appreciated again!
 
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Old Jun 12, 2020 | 11:48 AM
  #17  
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This system relies on ground? I would be sure the distributor housing, engine block, and module ground wire are all solidly connected. Again, the jury is still out on starter solenoid, ignition switch under dash, and ballast resistor!! Check them
 
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Old Jun 12, 2020 | 12:07 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Madison Tullis
I am spending hours on testing everyday. The coil tests OK. All my grounds zero out and my multimeter show no breaks in the wires. I really think my problem is coming from the Ignition control module. I tested the green/yellow wire for continuity and it zeros out. Yet I am NOT getting a pulse on the negative side of the coil when cranking. It's a constant 9v with the ignition on and the red wire (positive) is a constant 12v.
It looks like the previous owners went thru the same steps I did to attempt to get it running. They threw new spark plugs and wires at it, a distributer and a new ICM and coil (all from autozone) in there. It's got a blue tab on the back of the ICM. I was thinking what if their problem all along was the ICM and they got the wrong color box. I was reading on some other forums that you have to match the color tab on the back of the ICM. Is there any way to know which color ICM is supposed to go with my car so I can rule this out of not?
i am not experienced with the duraspark system but I've come to know it a lot more. Is there any other possibility for the green/yellow to not pulse under cranking? Any help is appreciated again!
In post #1 you said the coil negative was blinking. Now it's not. That's a significant change. Do you still have the old distributor or did you turn it in? If you have the old one, you can plug it in, turn the key to run and twirl it with your fingers and see if you get spark. You can also take the module to the store, they used to have testers they could plug it into to test it.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2020 | 04:44 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jackietreehorn
Shouldn't we use the 20k range with measuring 9-11kohms?

Yup, Typo on my part good catch.

 
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Old Jun 12, 2020 | 04:49 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Madison Tullis
I am spending hours on testing everyday. The coil tests OK. All my grounds zero out and my multimeter show no breaks in the wires. I really think my problem is coming from the Ignition control module. I tested the green/yellow wire for continuity and it zeros out. Yet I am NOT getting a pulse on the negative side of the coil when cranking. It's a constant 9v with the ignition on and the red wire (positive) is a constant 12v.
It looks like the previous owners went thru the same steps I did to attempt to get it running. They threw new spark plugs and wires at it, a distributer and a new ICM and coil (all from autozone) in there. It's got a blue tab on the back of the ICM. I was thinking what if their problem all along was the ICM and they got the wrong color box. I was reading on some other forums that you have to match the color tab on the back of the ICM. Is there any way to know which color ICM is supposed to go with my car so I can rule this out of not?
i am not experienced with the duraspark system but I've come to know it a lot more. Is there any other possibility for the green/yellow to not pulse under cranking? Any help is appreciated again!


Next is to test the dist pick up. Range should be 790 to 850Ω anything outside this replace the pick up. Orange and purple wires at dist plug. And yes while cranking you should have the neg on the coil drop out continuity to ground when testing be sure you unhook the feed (red) to the coil.

You need to check this during crank and run can be checked with ING in run and jumpering the starter relay. If you have the second small stud on the relay hooked up be sure to disconnect it during the run crank test.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2020 | 11:01 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jackietreehorn
This system relies on ground? I would be sure the distributor housing, engine block, and module ground wire are all solidly connected. Again, the jury is still out on starter solenoid, ignition switch under dash, and ballast resistor!! Check them
Ended up being the ignition switch under the dash. In combination with broken wires I found in the engine bay, I appreciate the help everyone. Finally got it running!
 
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