Truck Won't Start!
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Truck Won't Start!
My friend has a '77 Ford F-250 that has stopped working...
The first problem was that it would start, drive for 15-20 minutes and then die, and not restart... He replaced the ignition module and that solved it for a couple of days, but now it just won't start at all. It has fuel pressure, the carburetor is ok, the coil is getting power.. he says now it doesn't seem like it's trying to fire at all...
I don't know if this makes a difference or not but the engine in it is out of an '81 Ford Van...
Any idea on what it could be or what steps we could try next to figure out what it is and fix it?
The first problem was that it would start, drive for 15-20 minutes and then die, and not restart... He replaced the ignition module and that solved it for a couple of days, but now it just won't start at all. It has fuel pressure, the carburetor is ok, the coil is getting power.. he says now it doesn't seem like it's trying to fire at all...
I don't know if this makes a difference or not but the engine in it is out of an '81 Ford Van...
Any idea on what it could be or what steps we could try next to figure out what it is and fix it?
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Connect a test light from the negative terminal of the coil to clean, unpainted metal on the engine (ground). Crank the engine over with the key, and the light should BLINK. Report your results after having performed this test.
That's about as vague as it gets. Guess we'll have to take your word for it.
That's about as vague as it gets. Guess we'll have to take your word for it.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2013
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Start at your spark plugs and work your way back to the ignition module, cheaking power at each point. Did you replace the coil pickup inside of the distributor? I had one that would cut the truck off after it got warm. Heat is your worst enemy in electronics. i ended up having a short in my wiring harness causing the truck to cut off when i hit a bump. you can test that with the ohms setting on a multi-meter. get back with me.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2005
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Start at your spark plugs and work your way back to the ignition module, cheaking power at each point. Did you replace the coil pickup inside of the distributor? I had one that would cut the truck off after it got warm. Heat is your worst enemy in electronics. i ended up having a short in my wiring harness causing the truck to cut off when i hit a bump. you can test that with the ohms setting on a multi-meter. get back with me.
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OK, he hooked a test light up to it and the light comes on but ita very dim and it doesn't blink...?
Ha, sorry.. I have no idea what I'm talking about (as if you hadn't guessed..) and I just asked him if his carberatur was ok and he said yes.. I'm assuming that means that its getting the proper amount of fuel/air/whatever and that it is not an issue involving the carb...
Is there anything else that I should ask him? Sorry this has to be such a messy communication, he's kind of computer illiterate...and I'm almost car illiterate lol, bad combination for this probably..
Is there anything else that I should ask him? Sorry this has to be such a messy communication, he's kind of computer illiterate...and I'm almost car illiterate lol, bad combination for this probably..
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
The not blinking means the ignition module is not switching the coil. Disconnect the distributor connector, and check the resistance between the ORANGE and PURPLE wires coming from the truck. It should be between 400 and 700 ohms. Neither wire should have any continuity against the BLACK wire coming from the truck.
The other possibilities are bad ignition module and no power to the module. The former is less likely since it's new; the latter only happens when somebody changes something.
The other possibilities are bad ignition module and no power to the module. The former is less likely since it's new; the latter only happens when somebody changes something.
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