I think I am going to pull the solar panels, 130 watts total, off our fifth wheel and put them on our truck camper. I plan on leaving the controller we have, an older AM Solar controller, and buy new Price is not so much a consideration, but i do not intend to go nuts with the new system. The wiring on the Northstar is in place using 10ga. and I don't intend to change that since I am not trying to build an all electric system. Just a couple of AGMs, not Lithium. That means I am not looking for something to monitor milliamps or to make jounaling entries. So simple, journeymen level, is what I am thinking. if you are running solar, what do you have that you like?

Thanks,

Steve

 

I have the following PV system installed on our Lance 855s:

2x Renogy 100 W solar modules p/n RNG-100D-SS (wired in parallel)
1x Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/20 charge controller
1x Victron Smart Battery Sense (Long Range) Adapter
2x Duracell (Delaware East Penn) Group 24 AGM batteries (79 Ah each)

The solar modules are are attached to the roof rack crossbars. The CC, the SBS adapter, and the batteries are all in the electrical box. The batteries are ~2-1/2 years old and appear to be holding up quite well.

I loaded a Victron app on my iPhone to create a network for the CC and SBS, to customize charge stage voltage setpoints, and to be able to monitor system performance. The SBS monitors battery temperature as well as voltage at the Battery terminals.

The Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/10 or 75/15 charge controller would be satisfactory for your application. The SBS is optional but helps optimize battery charging and therefore longevity.

HTH,
Jim / crewzer

 

Thanks for the reply.

Steve

 

Truck Camper Warehouse added a 2nd 170 watt panel to our AF1140 Arctic Fox when we bought it, pulled the stock wet batteries and put in FullRiver DC115-12 AGM batteries, then upgraded the stock 10A Zamp Solar Controller to their ZS-30A Unit while still maintaining the stock wiring like you mention.

 

Thanks for the post and pictures. I have been debating how I want to fasten the panels to my roof. I don't have racks on the roof so would have to add them. Otherwise it looks like screwing them down. On fiberglass roofs in the past I used the double back tape like is used to hold on auto body cladding with good results, but I am not sure it is the best idea on a rubber roof, although I like the simplicity and no putting holes in the roof. The panels I will be using have been on two RVs so far so this will our truck camper will be the third one.

Steve

 

I have tried a couple controllers but like the victron stuff as well. I have 4 100w hqst panels, 100/30 mppt controller and 1 battle born 100a lithium battery. My compressor fridge will draw the battery down 30% overnight but recovers pretty fast in daylight.
Todd

 

A suggestion, if I may: Solar module output voltage drops as the cell temperature increases, and modules can get rather hot in the Sun. Therefore, modules are best installed with an air gap between them and the roof, as air circulation through the gap helps cool the modules and improve their power production.

HTH,
Jim / crewzer

 

Gees, my system will be a Wienie compared to that one.

Steve

 

Right on. My panels are on feet which can pivot to match slopped roofs and leave about an inch under the panels. I am sure they have lost some efficiency because they are about 15 years old, but output still looks pretty good at the controller.

Man, it’s not just me. Even all my “stuff” is getting old!

 

The new Renogy modules I installed are ~40% more efficient than the old ones I have laying around, so they’re smaller and lighter.

The two old modules on our previous TC were rated at 183 W and they weighed ~47 lbs. The two new Renogy modules are rated at 200 W and they weigh ~29 lbs.

You’re correct: Module output drops as the modules age. I seem to recall a useful rule-of-thumb was ~1% per year.

Being able to angle your module will help, especially in the winter when the Sun is low. My system is fixed.

Other ways to improve system performance are to reduce vampire loads and improve efficiency. I plan to add a switch to eliminate the entertainment system’s standby load when it’s “off”. For now, I just yank the 15A fuse.

I will also replace the Fan-Tastic fan’s speed switch with a PWM speed controller, which should cut the fan’s low-speed power requirement by 50%.

HTH,
Jim / crewzer

 

I tried that, didn't work. About low speed still drew 1A.

 

Interesting. I’ve enjoyed considerable success over the years using PWM to efficiently control LED lamp brightness and DC fan speed.

By replacing the stock speed selector switch (which uses resistors to wastefully burn off power to the fan) with a variable duty-cycle PWM controller, I fully expect same-speed power use to drop. Plus, I should be able to reduce power consumption even more by further slowing the fan.

I’ve ordered the controller, and will (try to remember to) post results after the mod.

Regards,
Jim / crewzer

 

I'd like to hear your results, didn't pan out for me. A brushless motor upgrade may do it

 

When I ordered my AF 990 back in May of 2018 I had them upgrade the Zamp Solar Controller to 30a instead of the 10a standard one ( no charge ) because I knew I was going to add panels in addition of the 20w trickle charger panel that came with the camper. I then added (2)-170w, 1-100w, and 1-50w on top using the standoffs to allow for air flow underneath. I used 5200 under the feet and used 3/4" hex head screws with rubber washers on all 4 corners. Pretty much as long as I can park in a sunny area I can go weeks without assistance. I did purchase an aftermarket 2000w generator (Duo-max XP2000EH) that will run the ( Coleman Mach 8 9k BTU ) A/C or Micro/Convection oven when and if we need them. Better to have it and not need it. And yes I do keep it plugged in when at home to run the Refer, gotta keep the beer cold.

 

Very nice set up!