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Holley Carb Issues

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Old Jun 3, 2020 | 07:23 PM
  #16  
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After pouring some fuel into the carb through the vent tube did you get fuel spray from the accelerator pump nozzles when pumping the throttle? If so, and there is spark, it should at least try to fire up. If it tries to fire then dies, a fuel passage in the metering block is likely plugged. Probably an idle circuit since those have the smallest passages.

Curious, how did you check for spark at each plug? Did you use any type of spark tester so you know for certain the spark is strong enough?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2020 | 07:59 PM
  #17  
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No I didn’t use a tester. Just looked for arc. The arc was smaller than I thought it would be. maybe I should grab a tester. I’m seeing some fuel in the carb and I get a strong gas smell out of one of the exhaust pipes after trying to start it so starting to think fuel isn’t the issue.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2020 | 08:51 PM
  #18  
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It sounds like fuel isn't the issue. Let us know what you find with a spark tester. I've always used spark testers. They take the guess work out of knowing if the ignition is okay or not.

Have you double checked the point gap in the distributor to be certain that is okay? A bad condenser maybe?
 
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Old Jun 3, 2020 | 09:30 PM
  #19  
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Had an extra new coil laying around so just threw that on there. Not that! Moving to distributor next. It’s gotta be something like a failed condenser to have it from running perfect to crap over night with no change.
 
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Old Jun 3, 2020 | 09:53 PM
  #20  
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Gap is fine. Nothing visually wrong with the condenser but don’t have one to try. Turned it over with the cap off and good spark. No idea at this point. Back to inconsistency in fuel delivery??? I just started it again and for about 10 seconds it was revving close to the way it was before but then it stopped.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 08:28 AM
  #21  
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Is the fuel pump receiving unrestricted flow? Fuel filter not clogged? Fuel pump output adequate? Check those items.
You can take the carb apart in about 10 minutes and use a can of carb spray to clean and check the orifices.
It's not clear to me whether the engine started for a brief period then quit or if it just won't fire at all. Please clarify that.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 08:48 AM
  #22  
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I can get it to start and run very poorly for a few seconds then it dies. Once I started it and it ran ok (not like it was before but close) while revving it for about 8 seconds then it died again. Most of the time trying to rev it results sputtering and it dying. Before this started it ran perfect, then overnight it did not. Looks like I'm taking the carb off to rebuild it. Will also check the pump flow.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 12:04 PM
  #23  
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I wonder if it's flooding? Float sunk or something causing the needle and seat to stick open.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 12:59 PM
  #24  
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Pump and filter are good, just testing and getting good flow. Just pulled the carb and will tear into in more. I puled the bowl off and the float looks new still and the needle moves freely by hand. I noticed what looks like come carbon chunks on the long screws that hold the bowl on. Maybe something is clogged.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 01:26 PM
  #25  
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Before you reinstall the float bowl, after the float and needle and seat are installed, turn the bowl upside down, blow into the fuel inlet and make certain the needle and seat are closing. Another thing, the float bowl screws are supposed to be tighter than many think. Holley says 30 inch-pounds of torque and honestly they are extremely tight on a new carb. I don't go that far, but only 18-20 inch-pounds. A word of caution when tightening float bowl screws, I've seen the threads pulled out of the main body.

Let us know what you find after going through the carb.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 04:10 PM
  #26  
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Didn't have a rebuild kit but just cleaned everything and reinstalled it. Float, needle and seat was good. No change....same issues. Ugh.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 04:38 PM
  #27  
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Do check the fuel pump output.

Getting full 12v to coil with key on?
Points adjusted correctly?
Cap-rotor-wires in good condition?
 
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 04:47 PM
  #28  
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In an earlier post, when you mentioned there are gas odors on the exhaust I didn't think anything was plugged inside the carb, maybe flooding but nothing plugged.

Do what Steve has mentioned. I suspect the spark is too weak. I've seen that happen. For points ignitions I use the tester shown below. If it cannot jump that big gap on the tester is won't jump the small gap on a spark plug inside the cylinder. The big gap in the tester is to compensate for the added resistance created by compression pressure inside the cylinder. The tester for electronic ignitions has even a larger gap.



 
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Old Jun 4, 2020 | 05:09 PM
  #29  
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I think it’s spark as well. I’m thinking a bad condenser.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 08:23 PM
  #30  
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It was the condenser! Thanks for all the help narrowing it down. Now to reset my carb back to where it was! Definitely keeping a spare condenser on hand any time I drive this thing. It’s crazy how such a small brand new part could leave the motor useless. Good lesson for me anyway!
 
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