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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Carb Throttle Rod Help

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Old May 30, 2020 | 10:43 AM
  #1  
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DukeSilver
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Carb Throttle Rod Help

Just recently bought a 1971 F100 with 302. Had to buy a new 2 barrel carb. Having trouble with the throttle rod linkage. The old throttle rod will not work, tried using a straight rod but wouldn’t work either. Any ideas? See pics attached. On one of them you can see the throttle rod near where it should go.




 
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Old May 30, 2020 | 11:26 AM
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farmalmta
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Smile Here you go!

It's a common problem when carb models get changed out. I had to go the other way just last week. Changed out a later Ford 2100 carb for an earlier Autolite 2100. In my case, I made a ball stud from a fillister head screw that I shaped to accommodate the later ball stud socket end on the '72 bumpside.

On your new carburetor the throttle return spring is hooked to the throttle ball stud and heads toward the front of the engine where it's hooked. Put that spring (or a prettier one!) below the throttle rod and hook it somewhere towards the back of the engine. That's going to have the spring pressure operating in the correct direction still.

The throttle ball stud (for '72-newer bumps/dents) on your new carb is pressed in, then expanded like a hot rivet. You have a couple of choices here.

1) remove that throttle ball stud and use the hole to put the current throttle rod with the bent end through. You'd file a ringed seat into the rod for a c-clip to fit snugly in to retain the rod in the hole. Or,

2) put a ball stud socket end on the current throttle rod, cutting off or heating and straightening the rod end to accept the socket. You'll need to either thread the ball stud socket on (preferred) or weld it. An example of those can be seen in this link:
Amazon Amazon





Congrats... you just adapted a later model carb onto your factory linkage!
 

Last edited by farmalmta; May 30, 2020 at 11:29 AM. Reason: misspelled fillister... requires 2 "l"'s!
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Old May 30, 2020 | 03:34 PM
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DukeSilver
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Awesome. Thanks for the info!
 
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Old May 30, 2020 | 07:32 PM
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Phantomtruck68
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From: Moriarty, NM
Originally Posted by farmalmta
It's a common problem when carb models get changed out. I had to go the other way just last week. Changed out a later Ford 2100 carb for an earlier Autolite 2100. In my case, I made a ball stud from a fillister head screw that I shaped to accommodate the later ball stud socket end on the '72 bumpside.

On your new carburetor the throttle return spring is hooked to the throttle ball stud and heads toward the front of the engine where it's hooked. Put that spring (or a prettier one!) below the throttle rod and hook it somewhere towards the back of the engine. That's going to have the spring pressure operating in the correct direction still.

The throttle ball stud (for '72-newer bumps/dents) on your new carb is pressed in, then expanded like a hot rivet. You have a couple of choices here.

1) remove that throttle ball stud and use the hole to put the current throttle rod with the bent end through. You'd file a ringed seat into the rod for a c-clip to fit snugly in to retain the rod in the hole. Or,

2) put a ball stud socket end on the current throttle rod, cutting off or heating and straightening the rod end to accept the socket. You'll need to either thread the ball stud socket on (preferred) or weld it. An example of those can be seen in this link: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-115-00.../dp/B000DCNR1O





Congrats... you just adapted a later model carb onto your factory linkage!
If you do it that way I believe it won't work. The original rod pushes on the carb throttle plate rod, it does not pull. Most people just remove the trapezoid throttle bracket and puts a lo ger rod straight from pedal arm to carb.

Im sure if you was to reverse where the pedal rod and the carb rod attached it would work.

I could be looking at this wrong to. So correct me if I'm wrong.
 
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Old May 30, 2020 | 08:29 PM
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farmalmta
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Thumbs up

Good catch. The bent rod end needs to go in down LOW, where the larger round stud is, and leave the spring connected as it is now. So remove that mount from the throttle assembly and clip the original throttle rod in that hole. There may also be other ways to work it out, but it's certainly doable.
Your point about the goofball trapezoidal intermediate apparatus is also good. So many of those have wallowed out badly where the rods fits through and on the rotating axis that a lot of slop gets introduced. Although the slop can be adjusted out, it still pays to inspect it and work another way around it if necessary. If the intermediate linkage is removed, the original discussion above applies.
 
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Old May 30, 2020 | 10:03 PM
  #6  
Pcmdub's Avatar
Pcmdub
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All of this is correct to a point.

You really need to just buy a new linkage. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/joe-34200
Even if you get what you have connected, it may not be the correct length and has a chance of hanging up on other parts (stuck WOT is bad).
Buy a linkage with threaded rod like the link. Then you attach the heim joint to the factory throttle pedal end. Connect the other heim joint to the TOP of that throttle bracket (basically where the spring is now attached). Now just measure the length of the rod with the pedal up and the throttle on the idle screw. Then test if WOT happens before the pedal hits the floor of the cab. Cut and screw the rod in place between the two heim joints.
Then remove all of the other brackets attached to the intake manifold. Use one of the bolts to hold the new spring from the intake manifold to the LOWER part of the throttle. DOUBLE check that it all clears EVERYTHING possible, and you are good to go...no worries.
 
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Old May 31, 2020 | 06:53 AM
  #7  
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lilorbie
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From: The Hotel California
DukeSilver You need to go to you tube and type in TheCraig909. He's a young kid who has a 71 bump with a 302. He has a video posted there that will show you how to fix your problem. I have used his idea on two of my projects a 67 f-100 302/c-4 and as 67 Mustang 289/c-4. And they both work awesome.
 
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