Carb Throttle Rod Help
On your new carburetor the throttle return spring is hooked to the throttle ball stud and heads toward the front of the engine where it's hooked. Put that spring (or a prettier one!) below the throttle rod and hook it somewhere towards the back of the engine. That's going to have the spring pressure operating in the correct direction still.
The throttle ball stud (for '72-newer bumps/dents) on your new carb is pressed in, then expanded like a hot rivet. You have a couple of choices here.
1) remove that throttle ball stud and use the hole to put the current throttle rod with the bent end through. You'd file a ringed seat into the rod for a c-clip to fit snugly in to retain the rod in the hole. Or,
2) put a ball stud socket end on the current throttle rod, cutting off or heating and straightening the rod end to accept the socket. You'll need to either thread the ball stud socket on (preferred) or weld it. An example of those can be seen in this link:
Congrats... you just adapted a later model carb onto your factory linkage!
Last edited by farmalmta; May 30, 2020 at 11:29 AM. Reason: misspelled fillister... requires 2 "l"'s!
On your new carburetor the throttle return spring is hooked to the throttle ball stud and heads toward the front of the engine where it's hooked. Put that spring (or a prettier one!) below the throttle rod and hook it somewhere towards the back of the engine. That's going to have the spring pressure operating in the correct direction still.
The throttle ball stud (for '72-newer bumps/dents) on your new carb is pressed in, then expanded like a hot rivet. You have a couple of choices here.
1) remove that throttle ball stud and use the hole to put the current throttle rod with the bent end through. You'd file a ringed seat into the rod for a c-clip to fit snugly in to retain the rod in the hole. Or,
2) put a ball stud socket end on the current throttle rod, cutting off or heating and straightening the rod end to accept the socket. You'll need to either thread the ball stud socket on (preferred) or weld it. An example of those can be seen in this link: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-115-00.../dp/B000DCNR1O
Congrats... you just adapted a later model carb onto your factory linkage!
Im sure if you was to reverse where the pedal rod and the carb rod attached it would work.
I could be looking at this wrong to. So correct me if I'm wrong.
Your point about the goofball trapezoidal intermediate apparatus is also good. So many of those have wallowed out badly where the rods fits through and on the rotating axis that a lot of slop gets introduced. Although the slop can be adjusted out, it still pays to inspect it and work another way around it if necessary. If the intermediate linkage is removed, the original discussion above applies.
You really need to just buy a new linkage. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/joe-34200
Even if you get what you have connected, it may not be the correct length and has a chance of hanging up on other parts (stuck WOT is bad).
Buy a linkage with threaded rod like the link. Then you attach the heim joint to the factory throttle pedal end. Connect the other heim joint to the TOP of that throttle bracket (basically where the spring is now attached). Now just measure the length of the rod with the pedal up and the throttle on the idle screw. Then test if WOT happens before the pedal hits the floor of the cab. Cut and screw the rod in place between the two heim joints.
Then remove all of the other brackets attached to the intake manifold. Use one of the bolts to hold the new spring from the intake manifold to the LOWER part of the throttle. DOUBLE check that it all clears EVERYTHING possible, and you are good to go...no worries.







