I have been searching for instructions and illustration of the proper attachment of controls, especially the kickdown rod which should be running up from the installed C4 transmission (D3TFB), to the Motorcraft 2150 ("D5DEAFA A 5E 12") carburetor & throttle linkage on the 302 V-8 engine (D5DE 9C485 BYA) in this truck. The kickdown rod seems to fall in the crack between the transmission & the throttle/carburetor/engine - it's proper attachment is seemingly never described or illustrated. Help!

I've posted photos of the existing linkages (including a "return spring" which one mechanic says may not belong where it is attached - to the ball ended **** on the throttle lever assembly) at Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Jim Pivonka's Album: Motorcraft 2150 Carburetor Linkages & Kickdown Rod

 

You,
__forgot to tell us engine size.

 

Thanks for the correction! It is a 302 V-8 engine (D5DE 9C485 BYA).

 

What,
__dya know.
this is the same Eng./trans. combo that I have!

Here's some pics.





Later.

 

However,
__my truck is a 77' 150.

Is your truck a "stock" 75' with 302eng. C4tranz.?

 

After looking at the pictures of your engine, I think your linkage works off of the linkage piviot assembly on the back of your engine,the bell crank , not the carb. I had a falcon ,289. that worked that way . I never saw anyplace on the carb that looked like you could hook anything up. I am just guessing, not sure.

 

@ crazedfox Thank you! I cannot believe how hard it has been to get a good illustration of this part, and how it attaches to the kickdown rod. This is the set of photos that does it.

The rest of your setup is a little different, mostly because my "new to me" truck is so far from stock. My 302 engine comes from '75 (according to the label, a Maverick or Granada), my pan fill C-4 trans. from '73 truck, and my truck's body (and what jim collins identifies as the pivot assembly or bellcrank on the back of my engine) is "Camper Special" from 1970.

My carb's throttle lever wants the throttle rod that your truck has, but my throttle rod comes from the bellcrank assembly on the back of the engine. The bellcrank changes the direction of the accelerator motion from back to forward, and forces attachment of the throttle rod to a point on the throttle lever below the throttle shaft. (The guy who installed the engine may have used an attachment point intended in 1975 for a throttle return spring?)

You seem to have dual throttle return springs. One is in front of the throttle lever, above the throttle shaft axis, and is hooked to a hole in the throttle lever near the throttle rod attachment. The second is a stud apparently present only in later vehicles, and runs from below the throttle rod axis to an attachment at the back of the engine (where the pivot assembly from my 1970 body is attached).

I also do not have the (solenoid operated?) part forward of the throttle lever. I don't know if that was not present on the '75 engine or was removed by whoever adapted this engine to the '70 truck body. If I can get a name for this part, I'll research that.

Thanks again for the very clear photos, and the chance to think some of this through a bit more. If I've gotten off track, please let me know

 

Jim, I am not sure what years included the part you identify as the pivot assembly or bellcrank, and others have called the trapeze or squirrel cage. Apparently 1970 did, and whoever transplanted the 1975 302 engine into this 1970 body carried it forward to adapt the body and engine to one another.

I wish I had a way to see what a properly assembled pivot assembly looks like. I've learned not to trust anything on this truck that seems like it may have had a human hand on it since manufacture, down to and including spark plugs & transmission fluid. I most likely need to do some work on that assembly to get the travel range between the accelerator pedal and the throttle lever correct. That bend in the throttle rod looks ugly. (Since the 1975 throttle rod & lever assumes a longer accelerator arm, with a different travel distance, adjusting the travel range relationship between the 1970 accelerator pedal and the 1975 carburetor lever *may* be simpler using the pivot assembly.)

Edit: I've just found this link to an image of the original linkages for the 1970 F100 302 V8 automatic transmission. It will require some thinking to tie it to what is on my truck - I can already see that one throttle return spring, between the carburetor throttle lever and the bellcrank linkage assembly, is missing. http://www.fordification.com/tech/im...nkage_8cyl.jpg

It may be that the kickdown for this truck originally was attached to the pivot assembly. However, since the transmission and engine are both post 1972, it seems safest to use the kickdown rod attachment system in place for the MC 2150 carburetor series, if I can get the attachment needed for my carb.

 

.................................................. .................................................. .......
From looking at your pictures I thought you may have a mix of different years linkages , engine and transmission. The pictures ' crasedfox ' has is a lot like my 79. I believe that is the way you need to try to come up with, lots less moving parts to give a problem. The [solenoid ] part you were asking about earlier may be for the air conditioner to increase the RPM when it kicks in at idle,so it won't kill the engine. My engine came out of a truck that had air, so I removed it from the engine when I instaled it in my unair conditioned truck. P.S. A complete assembly from the gas pedal, including it, to the carb, down to the tranny may bolt right in to your truck. Then it would all match up and work together. JIM

 

So far, it appears that the part in question, which would accept the kickdown rod, is an integral part of the carburetor, and not a separate part. If I understand the feedback you have given, the kickdown attachment point is included in the assembly of the throttle shaft, and is a part of the assembly stamped into the unitary throttle shaft & lever. No stock part can be added, to convert a manual transmission carburetor to one that works with an automatic transmission.

This leaves me with draconian alternatives:

• trash this fine carburetor and hope for the best when purchasing a replacement built for automatic transmission application;
• try to find a dead carb for an automatic that has a usable throttle shaft with the necessary part on it, and swap the old shaft out;
• set the throttle to prevent acceleration and engine loading that would result in a need for kickdown;
• try to find an aftermarket "attachment" that could be bolted to the throttle lever and used for a kickdown rod receiver;
• have the transmission mechanic fashion an informal kickdown rod and attachment system;
• this excellent idea from a friend - trash the C-4 automantic and get a junkyard manual to replace it; and finally -
• purchase one of those "manual automatic" valve bodies and convert the C-4 to full manual operation - presuming that this eliminates the need for kickdown.

What do you think?

(Note that I am cross posting this; others have contributed to getting my understanding to this point, and I want to keep them informed about the results.)

 

You,
__have a small problem here.
There is parts for three different vehicles here.

You will need to retrieve the correct parts for one of the two.

Get parts from a 1968-72 F-series with auto-tranz.
(a good auto-tranz carb, & the kick-down bar.)

Or find the parts to finish the current engine W/auto-tranz. set-up you have. 75-79 yrs.
(a good auto-tranz carb, the kick-down bar, & long throttle link.)

This is the easiest choices I can offer as of now.

Sorry to say that ether choice still will involve changing out that carb. (maybe you can trade it for a auto-trans one.)

Good luck!

 

From,
__looking @ your other Q's & statements on this truck of yours.
(form efforts to find more answers about & for you.)

I think I might have an answer to your VIN stamp locale on the chassis. (frame)

Here is mine.
It is located on the passenger side front rail, just before the engine cross-member.
Now if yours isn't there. It should be on the same rail, but under the cab.(about midway to forward of so.)

Now it also just might be buried under A LOT of dirt, grime, & or rust.
So get a good wire-brush or wire-wheel. & get to a lookn'.



Close up of VIN.


.

 

I don't know if you have ask , but you don't have to have the kick down hooked up unless you want it to be. It will not harm you transmission,you just won't have a passing gear. I like them operational but have ran them many years with out it. My F-100 doesn't have one, but with the 460 I don't need it. When I had one with a 302 , it would have been nice to have one but I drove it a long time with out it. I do plan to hook up one to the 460/c/6 , just to make it complete. Good luck , JIM

 

I've read varying reports on the effect of not having kickdown, including the opinion that acceleration load in drive results in fluid pressures that damage the forward clutch. I don't know the answer on that one.

I should say that I've come down with a pretty disabling bout of diverticulitiis, which is interfering very much with my movement and thinking; it may be a few days before I can give this problem the attention I want to. Thanks for your help.

 

Well if it is harmful it missed a chance on my 79 bronco. I bent the downshift rod on it installing a 460 engine, so I left it off . It was a daily driver for 15 years with no problems other than no passing gear which I never needed with the 460. The F-100 I have now doesent have one and I'm not worried at all. I have a 64 falcon i put a 289 in about 20 years ago, I never had the complicated linkage they need for the c/4, so I left it out. It's still going and has been driven a lot. Maybe the car gods are looking over my shoulder and keeping everything together for me for treating old fords good ?