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Old Jul 21, 2020 | 12:50 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob
Personally, I prefer to use a pressure bleeder to flush brake systems. It replenishes the reservoir automatically and all I have to do is sit at each caliper, crack the bleeder open and watch for the bubbles to stop. Mine is a homebrew that cost a lot less to assemble than this commercial one but you get the idea.


Motive Products 0107 Power Pressure Brake and Clutch Bleeder For Ford and Asian Cars and Trucks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ5DZE2..._-eYfFb0A0RSSW
do you have to constantly keep repumping those? I've those work good but they are pretty pricey. Could probably make one out of a small handheld landscape sprayer
 
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Old Jul 21, 2020 | 12:53 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jstihl
do you have to constantly keep repumping those? I've those work good but they are pretty pricey. Could probably make one out of a small handheld landscape sprayer
That is exactly what I did. It was made out a garden sprayer. I modified mine to be able to use shop air too. No pumping required.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 06:26 AM
  #18  
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Update: went to work and went to turn in and pedal went to floor. Almost hit my shop. RR rotor was trashed and piston came out. I glanced at LR a few months ago and bought everything new. Well I got it fixed and better than new now even got a parking brake which I've never had since owning truck.




 
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 07:54 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Rose88racing
Update: went to work and went to turn in and pedal went to floor. Almost hit my shop. RR rotor was trashed and piston came out. I glanced at LR a few months ago and bought everything new. Well I got it fixed and better than new now even got a parking brake which I've never had since owning truck.




wow that is one wore out rotor!! Glad you got it fixed
 
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 08:12 AM
  #20  
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That is the result of lack of slide pin maintenance.

I prefer dielectric grease for slide pins because it lasts the longest.

At a minimum, check slide pins at tire rotation. But, you don’t even have to take the tires off to check them. Just loosen the slide pin bolts and use them to push the slide pin in and pull it back out. If they slide, your good. If not, maintenance required. Replace any torn or deteriorated boots (just replace the whole caliper under warranty).
 
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Old Jul 24, 2020 | 01:37 PM
  #21  
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Actually...I find that I can stick my largest screwdriver into the slot in the center of the caliper and pry the pistons back into the caliper, then the outer piece of the caliper is free to slide back and forth on the pins if they aren't frozen. If it won't pry back in or slide freely then there is an issue to be addressed. I'm having an intermittent issue with my left rear and I'm getting close to figuring that it has to be the hose because everything else is working like it should. But I pull the tire to do that.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 06:03 PM
  #22  
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Ok Guys...I have great brakes now but have oil seals leaking. Installed 2 different sets and even bought the installer tool. Emory clothed the snout what am I doing wrong? Both sides leak
 
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 06:20 PM
  #23  
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Is the seal area damaged? Seals damaged?

Motorcraft seals?

Are you greasing the spindle?

 
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Old Aug 22, 2020 | 08:19 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
Is the seal area damaged? Seals damaged?

Motorcraft seals?

Are you greasing the spindle?
national seals, bought the RD247 installation tool used Emery cloth on spindle and hub shoulder. 2 sets and same thing both sides leaking.
 
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