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Old May 26, 2020 | 08:32 AM
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Brakes Dragging

Ok so I just did a front brake job on my 2000 F350 Crew Cab Dually SWB.
1. new rotors
2. new pads
3. new calipers
4. new lines

RF brake was dragging so bad you could smell it in the cab and pulling. So I went ahead and did all the above and the RF is still doing same thing.

Could it be the ABS valve or block? not letting the fluid return? Maybe over filling the reservoir?

Thanks For The Help!!
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 08:42 AM
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The rubber brake lines out at the end are known to go bad and create a one-way valve, which lets fluid out and not back when you release the brakes. I'd go there first.
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
The rubber brake lines out at the end are known to go bad and create a one-way valve, which lets fluid out and not back when you release the brakes. I'd go there first.
Yeah that was my first thought but he said new lines?????

How much fluid did you run through the brakes when bleeding them. Could try really flushing that one line (RF) to push out any trash that may be in it.
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 09:32 AM
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Ok will check fluid and flush...I did replace the rubber lines. Just went down the road and was coming to a stop and just pushed pedal as fast and hard as I could and it released several times. Still gonna check the fluid. Would the abs manifold or block where lines go in be the culprit?
 
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Old May 26, 2020 | 07:37 PM
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Hmmm. I don't know anything about that ABS system. I'd start by prying the caliper back in with a large screwdriver. Then try that again with the bleeder open and see how they compare. That will identify or eliminate the caliper as the problem.
 
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Old May 28, 2020 | 12:35 AM
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I would not rule out the new bad caliper being bad. I work at the ford dealership and I see bad new calipers all the time.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 10:00 AM
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Well Still having the brake sticking problem on RF. Like I said all new calipers, rotors. pads. and the short rubber lines and it was doing this same thing on RF before the 500.00

expense. So any other lines I should look for?

When I push the pedal down I can hear like a vacuum noise or air and pedal goes to floor?

Also I am using a Air bleeder from Snap On so I can do this myself. I have never got a solid stream of fluid makes me think I may have air in system but then the pedal going to the floor makes me think booster? ABS module or block diaphram?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 01:31 AM
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Yeah I'd keep hammering bleeding the caliper until the fluid is fresh and no air. Don't let the reservoir go dry or it will introduce air and you're back to square one.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 08:02 AM
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Theres a valve block under drivers side battery where brake lines go into, is this a proportion valve? I had heard that maybe the line is not letting the fluid return.

When I bleed the caliper it is dropping the reservoir so I know its flowing just maybe not enough?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 08:36 AM
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@Rose88racing Did you replace the caliper with a loaded one, mounting bracket and all or just the caliper itself? Are the slide pins sliding free?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Rose88racing
Well Still having the brake sticking problem on RF. Like I said all new calipers, rotors. pads. and the short rubber lines and it was doing this same thing on RF before the 500.00

expense. So any other lines I should look for?

When I push the pedal down I can hear like a vacuum noise or air and pedal goes to floor?

Also I am using a Air bleeder from Snap On so I can do this myself. I have never got a solid stream of fluid makes me think I may have air in system but then the pedal going to the floor makes me think booster? ABS module or block diaphram?
I just went through the same thing. You need to take some grease and smash it around the threads of the bleeder screw otherwise that vacuum suction is going to suck air right through the threads. You will need to start from the back left then go back right then front left and front right until there is absolutely no air left in the lines . If your pedal is going to the floor or feels spongy you still have air in the lines. It took me a ton of brake fluid to get all the lines flushed out, I had a really hard time getting the air out
edit: back right, back left, front right, front left. Don't move on to the next wheel until all the air is out of each line
 
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Old Jul 21, 2020 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob
@Rose88racing Did you replace the caliper with a loaded one, mounting bracket and all or just the caliper itself? Are the slide pins sliding free?
Fully Loaded with new brkts
 
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Old Jul 21, 2020 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jstihl
I just went through the same thing. You need to take some grease and smash it around the threads of the bleeder screw otherwise that vacuum suction is going to suck air right through the threads. You will need to start from the back left then go back right then front left and front right until there is absolutely no air left in the lines . If your pedal is going to the floor or feels spongy you still have air in the lines. It took me a ton of brake fluid to get all the lines flushed out, I had a really hard time getting the air out
edit: back right, back left, front right, front left. Don't move on to the next wheel until all the air is out of each line
THANKS!! that was my next move flush entire system and start over with some help to pump the pedal not so sure about this 1 man brake bleeder thingy from Snap On Tools?
 
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Old Jul 21, 2020 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Rose88racing
Theres a valve block under drivers side battery where brake lines go into, is this a proportion valve? I had heard that maybe the line is not letting the fluid return.

When I bleed the caliper it is dropping the reservoir so I know its flowing just maybe not enough?
That is your ABS system.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2020 | 12:10 PM
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Personally, I prefer to use a pressure bleeder to flush brake systems. It replenishes the reservoir automatically and all I have to do is sit at each caliper, crack the bleeder open and watch for the bubbles to stop. Mine is a homebrew that cost a lot less to assemble than this commercial one but you get the idea.


Motive Products 0107 Power Pressure Brake and Clutch Bleeder For Ford and Asian Cars and Trucks
Amazon Amazon
 
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