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Well I believe I finally found the source of my miss fire problems on the Trouble truck.
both head gaskets blown, one of which I believe might have been blown within minutes of cranking this engine the first time due to the fact that the #2 bolt on passenger side head was finger tight! Mismatched head gaskets. Carbon and burned oil blown into the lifter valley for a while on cylinder #2
I believe I’m just going to tear the entire engine down now after finding that head bolt finger tight since I no longer trust the build quality. It’s a jasper class1 build from 2005 or 6.
cylinders7&8 were leaking coolant. Honestly I’m surprised the truck ran as well as it did.
What engine gasket kit would those of you in the know these days recommend?
I have considered the Mahle kit but wasn’t sure. I have seen multiple times people saying to use fel pro gaskets only however I can’t find the one with the one piece rubber oil pan gasket in it. Pistons are marked for .040 over bore already.
what day you as the group?
truck is a daily driver/ that does quite a bit of work on my days off as well. 1994 Ford F 250 5.8 H code hydraulic roller motor. E4OD trans 4x2.
This is a very complete set. The description claims that it doesn't come with the gasket for between the upper and lower intake, but I'm almost positive that mine came with it when I ordered this.
That Fel-Pro full gasket kit GNR22 linked is a nice gasket set. We looked into this further and it does include the upper plenum gasket. We confirmed it with Fel-Pro. You can also see it pictured here on their site. It's on the left in the 3rd row from the top. It also includes the rubber one-piece oil pan gasket.
We'll get our description and image fixed to better represent what is included in the gasket kit.
That Fel-Pro full gasket kit GNR22 linked is a nice gasket set. We looked into this further and it does include the upper plenum gasket. We confirmed it with Fel-Pro. You can also see it pictured here on their site. It's on the left in the 3rd row from the top. It also includes the rubber one-piece oil pan gasket.
We'll get our description and image fixed to better represent what is included in the gasket kit.
Thank you guys, it’s been purchased and on its way. I did some more research thinking it had cork valve cover gaskets which it does not, it has the reusable rubber.
So that set did have the cork gaskets in it but on a better note... even though #4 intake hit the piston at some point it did not bend the valve. I believe the lifter collapsed or leaked down at some point and the pushrod popped up on top of the lifter. The retainer clip in the lifter was broken smashed in two. With a chip out of the top of the ring it clips into. Found all pieces sitting behind the dog bone in the recess it sits in! #2 cylinder has been leaking for some time as evidence by the carbon and burned oil in lifter valley that ate the intake lifter up.
heads back from machine shop and back on the truck. Got the Lower plenum on tonite.
this has been a rather eventful head gasket replacement as the truck now has a new cam, lifters, springs and rocker arms, water pump, balancer, timing set. Replaced leaking 4 piece oil pan gasket with one piece.
Truck finally back together, had to get longer pushrods for exhaust side. Between running on all cylinders again and the new cam it’s like a whole new truck!
frp lifters
factory rockers
sealed powers pushrods couldn’t get the length I needed even after measuring w adjustable pushrod so ended up putting shins under the rocker pedestals.
comp 35-512-8 cam and matching springs
factory timing set
ultrasonic cleaned and back flushed injectors
motor mounts
freeze plugs.
fixing to replace condenser compressor and accumulator as soon as they arrive.
Well the machinist was correct, the driver side head gasket was not blown. The head was cracked it’s still cracked! Everything back together and ran to work twice was re checking header bolts and noticed ALOT of coolant on the passenger side of the block. The heads got swapped side for side when I put them back on didn’t realize it till I had the intake down, valve train all back together.
anyways I thought it odd that the coolant was about the same place. It’s cracked above the lower head bolt hole.
now I need to find another head get this one pulled back off and get it to him to match the machine work and swap my springs and such AFTER a very good checking over. #2 exhaust port
Man! what rotten luck, what length pushrod was in exhaust, to have to change?
Don’t recall the length off hand, but the base circle on the new cam was smaller than what had been in it.
mom a good note I found a set of 302 E7te heads for $50 bucks Going to pick them up tomorrow nite. Need to have the machine work done and head bolt holes enlarged from 7/16” to 1/2”
DEO I have a nice 351 E7TE head I've been trying to get rid of. Only 32k miles on it. You can have it for just shipping if you like. Otherwise it goes to the scrap. One catch--The front most intake bolt needs drilled out/heliocoiled.
Hopefully this will get enough traffic to answer my question without a new thread.
Is there any known problem with running a single E7te head from a 5.0 with an original 5.8 E7te on the other cylinder bank?
From what I have gathered the difference is in the head bolt holes being 7/16” (5.0) vs 1/2” (5.8)
