When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I have fuel pooling in the valley right under the fuel pump banjo bolt on my 1997 F250 with 178K miles. I'm replacing the fuel pump and banjo bolt washers.When I got the pump out I discovered that it's a Carter p/n M61067 pump, which I'm not sure is original (perhaps it is on Internationals???), so perhaps it's been replaced at some point. I also saw when it was out and cleaned up that the bottom o-ring that goes in the block was torn. Has anyone ever seen this o-ring fail?
Looks like someone did not lube the o-ring and it messed it up putting it in. As far as I know it holds no pressure just seals. IIRC all the mechanical pumps were carter.
Oops, I saw the gaskets and orings but completely missed the fuel pump lol. Sorry.
Lovely that I'm going to be resealing all this loveliness on my truck very soon as well. Uggg I should just do refuel but not right now
Also, the oring is prob torn due to improper initial install.
I have what looks like oil leaking down the back of my block, and I have fuel pooling in the valley under the banjo bolt, so it would be awesome if the fuel pump was the culprit of both my leaks; fuel pooling in the valley from the weep hole washing oil from the o-ring down the back of the block.
Got the job done. What I found easiest was to loosen the fuel filter bowl to get the fuel hoses back on. I use some standard 3/8 bulk fuel line from O'Reillys. I cut them just a tad shorter than the originals to give some wiggle room and slid the bottom one on the filter bowl nipple first, then angled the pump into the hole while attaching the bottom hose. The top two went easily. Thankfully I don't have meat hands, so after taking the engine hook off I was able to get the banjo bolt started without much issue. The y-pipe I also found easier to reattach by putting the hoses on the engine and sliding the y-pipe over them. I'm not sure if it was necessary, but I left the key to the "on" position for about 30 seconds before starting to prime the fuel system, and it fired right up. I don't see any more fuel leaking in the valley, but still have some oil dripping on the ground, so it doesn't seem like my two birds with one stone hope came true.
Had exact symptoms as this. I actually could see a slight splatter/mist under the fuel pump near passenger side mounting bolt, red area below, which pooled into valley behind pump. I am about to pull it. Assume the fuel is coming out the very small hole just above the o-ring in the above carter pics? Torn diaphragm?
Anyone know PN for the fuel banjo rings? I really don't think they are my leak, but assume I should replace if I can find the part.
You might want to be careful with that 3/8 fuel line. Most of that stuff is not rated for diesel. It will break down in pretty short order. It can leak and send crap into your fuel bowl. If you didn’t ask the counter guy for diesel rated stuff I would double check it to prevent future problems.
Had exact symptoms as this. I actually could see a slight splatter/mist under the fuel pump near passenger side mounting bolt, red area below, which pooled into valley behind pump. I am about to pull it. Assume the fuel is coming out the very small hole just above the o-ring in the above carter pics? Torn diaphragm?
Anyone know PN for the fuel banjo rings? I really don't think they are my leak, but assume I should replace if I can find the part.
Good idea to replace those seals; that banjo bolt is not something you want to have to do twice. You'll find out the turbo pedestal webbing will make you wish you has tweezers for fingers. The banjo bolt seals are p/n F4TZ9A375A. If you find it too hard to get to you can take a dremel or something and cut the webbing away.
Yes when the fuel pump guts internally leak it will leak fuel out of the weep hole into the valley. Pull the pump STRAIGHT UP, do not wiggle it or it will break off in the block. Be careful to not let the plunger fall into the block when the whole deal comes out. You can turn the engine over by the alternator pulley to get the fuel pump cam lobe up as much as possible to keep the plunger from falling in. That will also help push the pump out after you get the mounting bolts loose.
You might want to be careful with that 3/8 fuel line. Most of that stuff is not rated for diesel. It will break down in pretty short order. It can leak and send crap into your fuel bowl. If you didn’t ask the counter guy for diesel rated stuff I would double check it to prevent future problems.
Thanks for the heads up. I don't think I specified for diesel, so I'll keep an eye out for degradation.
Sorry bbyrnes1 for jumping in on your thread, thanks for the PN on the rings! I thought my issue was exact as yours, but I just pulled my pump and the o-ring was fine. (plunger came up straight, thanks for tip on removing) It is the weeze hole on the bottom leaking on mine. I too need to do new rubber fuel lines and these blue OEM lines seem nice and rugged, F4TZ-9324-DA, may go with them.
Thanks for the heads up. I don't think I specified for diesel, so I'll keep an eye out for degradation.
i overlooked it when I first did my efuel. It took about a year before it started to leak. Changed to the correct line and it has been fine ever since.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
